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Has been a total shitter with all the extra work but at least your getting there now. I wouldn't decide on speed until you've got it all 100% a blow at the manifold isn't going to help it at all i'd say thats sapping some through lack of back pressure.
Looking good now anyway, can't wait to see...
When I had my car on clip and had some of the logs cleared and reset it takes 40 miles or so for the cruise to work again. Don't know if its the same, although that never used to put the icon on the dash either iirc.
I emailed Henk about it and there isn't a GrpN map for the 7300 version.
They aren't rubbish its usually the owners treatment of them that are. Has the alignment of the linkage been checked by any of these garages? Its in the haynes manual. It they take it off it should be apparent if its moved.
Well you've answered your own question there then, the JB/JC series of renault gearboxes do not like being rushed at all. Theres a big difference between quick driving and blatent abuse and you fall under the second one tbh, MarkCups 172 Cup has 100k+ of hard driving on it and afaik its still on...
iirc peak power is 6000rpm and the limiter is 6500rpm. The redline on a tacho means jack s**t anyway, it doesn't start until 7250rpm on the 172 when peak power is 6500rpm and the shift up light comes on at 6800rpm.
Then you've also got the problem of the ECU, afaik all the cable throttle conversions for the Ph2 172 and 182 use aftermarket management.
Only the very late 172s had cruise so 95% of the time its not a problem, you'd loose ESP too if you had it as well I imagine.
I'd say the syncro ring is on the way out, it happens if you rush the box continually. It is self doable but you've got to know what your doing really or you'll never get the box back together again its not easy.
You can try an gearbox oil change and hope is the first thing i'd try.
They've got a valve in them which doesn't last forever, the only option is to change the washer really as a 100% fix. They're not very expensive (£9iirc) and its easy enough to get the bumper off to change them.
You don't I think lol, i've had to revert to my CAD adapter because I just couldn't get it to work. I think its something to do with the new units using the red version of the vehicle display interface as my 9855R which i had before the 9887R I have now worked brilliantly. As the only difference...
Just out of interest re the headunit display, when using the adapter (i'm assuming it the alpine vdi one?) do you just get garbled shite on the dash screen?
Firstly put a fuse back in before you burn out your car fuses are there for a reason, its a textbook way to start a fire. With the auto door locking turned off does it still blow a fuse?
Only bolts in and out afaik. Had mine changed under warrenty with my old 1.6 due to it rattling, they didn't have it very long so it can't be that hard.
I know, they can be got elsewhere cheaper too I think. I payed £45 for mine from some online tools company, they're made by laser. You can get the 1*2FF aux tensioner tool too for £10.
I'm just saying that he needs them, far to many have been screwed up by using tipex marks.