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Also just to confuse some more I had a set of 2 sets of 182 xenons (grey surrounds) and they used the metal 172 type configuration for holding the bulbs.

Haha great minds, erm i'm assuming it'll be map like the 225 (afaik?) but i'm not 100%. Having a look for a MAF/AFM would be the best bet.

Don't think they do, both physically and electrically.

No it'll be fine, just sounds like he's managed to unclip the adjuster.

Thinking dump valve?

Ideally you'd want to ditch the resonator box at the back to but it'll be fine like that.

+1 the difference was there straight away after remapping mine with my rstuner only drove say 10 miles or so to warm it up first. Also the service Henk gives is A* a lot of companies should take note, emails answered within minutes and always good in depth answers. Can't fault fastchip one...

Be as good i'd have thought, i've been dead impressed with mine.

My magnex is a 2.5" bore iirc and it freed up at higher revs without a doubt.

Did you disconnect the battery when fitting it? Quite possible you've damaged something that way if you haven't. Are all the engine bay fuses intact?

Not a great deal, its resonably straightforward on a 1.2. Circa £250 would've thought? Deffo wants doing asap if its still on the factory one!

Locking tools are important as so many have been timed up incorrectly before, although they usually feel slower when they have been. Change them for the the proper NGK PFR6E-10s if you want to see if they make any difference.

I'm pretty sure they're just rubber mounts.

Theres no backbox on it so water from the cat won't get trapped as much.

Vocal :evil:

Which ones have you got? The proper renault ones? Or otherwise? Theres a good few you can choose from looking at the ones i've got.

You could pick an ignition live up from the iso radio power loom if its in the cabin. Otherwise there are plenty of other places you can pick on up, especially in the bay.

And you won't be changing the manifold just cat-back theres no benefit to that and I don't know of anyone that makes an over the counter one to speak.

You won't see a great deal of benefit putting an exhaust on any clio tbh, it just for sound and looks. And anything looks better than the standard 182 peashooters.

As edde says you'd need box out and then split the box to get the diff out and the new one in, if you haven't done one before/know what your doing it'll be fun. Although if you've got a spare box it'd be a good way to learn. Getting it apart is easy enough its getting it back together is more fun.

Ph2 is electric throttle so hasn't got an ISCV nor a throttle cable. Could be a few things tbh, if picking the pedal up used to sort it then i'd get a replacement pedal first off.

Doubt it as the 1.6s came with them from the factory (well mine and others did/have) and there the same lump and box dimension wise.

Magnatec tends to make renault engines sound like a skeleton having a w**k in a biscuit tin imo.

Its 5w40 you want and its more than good enough for most people, made by comma so its a well known brand and i've been using it for ages now no problems.

Which warning light?

The wheels the right offset? Otherwise unlower it is about the only option other than change the wheels.

Just get a tin of it and put some more on if your bothered about rubbing it off, theres no way you won't rub some off using stands there. I just smudge some more back on after, halfraulds do a big tin of it for about £3.

Can you see anything close to the bodywork? Does it knock when you move the engine by hand?

The GrpN ECU that you could buy was just a remapped ECU afaik, I imagine the RStuner map is just an image of a GrpN ECU.

I had 3 Mk2s and have never had any problems jacking/standing using the sills. Done it on every one i've worked one mine and others.