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Oh btw just to be pedantic they're hydraulic tappets not hydraulics! You'd get a funny look if you needed to order some ;). I'm on nights this week, it doesn't put me at my best :o.

Standard map peaks at 6500rpm so I guess the GrpN map could delay it a bit. It does raise the limiter and i'm guessing for this reason.

You should manage 90ish, i'll bet it wasn't warm and was hitting the lower limiter at 6500rpm? Weaker if anything and mechanical speedo drive.

Oh yeah hes got the head off as well :o, for some reason I thought he'd only got the cam cover off. Be worth I bash on the head/block faces then I guess. edit: Yeh I was on about the cam cover as said! Oops.

Not sure on that really, kinda has a cheap copy of the 197 look about it. Although knowing k-tec it'll be far from cheap! Doesn't look any better than standard imo, just different.

Ah I see, don't worry about that then. Waste of time as they're shouldn't be any pitting in it really and its only an oil seal at the end of the day not like the airtight seal you need between the bottom end and the head.

Wheres that from out of interest? Would've thought its a bit OTT for the application imo. I'd only go as far as using a stanley knife blade to scrape all the old liquid gasket off (but don't scratch the mating faces).

Yeh it is sorry, its lower down than the picture made me think the knock sensor is brown too! I'm on nights so i'll blame it on that :o. Measure the thread and see if you can get one of those tee pieces in the right size.

Mine always did it and it got regular 100 mile motorway journeys, I don't think you'll ever stop it. As long it theres nothing on the dipstick and its not excessive then you're fine.

Safe to say someones pikey'd that one up then!

I'd say the second one is probably bang on, and if your on about the green thing that looks like the oil pressure switch then thats the knock sensor the oil pressure switch is lower down below the oil filter.

Other than wd and physical pursuasion like you've been doing there isn't much more you can do, you can't really use heat due to the rubber bushes in the wishbone.

My next car is either one of these or an rs megane, can't decide which yet but liking the reliability of the mazda over the renault for a start and my dads 6 MPS is a hoot so can't wait to try a 3. Just a shame its not 4wd like the 6.

It was called the raginotti (sp?) in europe.

That and it looks pikey as fook.

Not gospel here as i've never had a cup spoiler but i'm not sure thats the correct brakelight, for a start I though they were leds not bulbs and that the light came out as a whole unit? Might be completely wrong though.

Ah cool, well they'll never be 100% solid as they don't want to be and as you've got a solid gear linkage you'll always have some feedback from the engine/gearbox movement. It should be less than the 1.2 but it'll still be there, it depends what you call excessive.

I'd tee piece into the oil pressure switch hole personally. Probably be a damn sight cheaper too.

There should be 4! The upper engine mount, the upper gearbox mount, the dogbone mount and the 4th mount on the gearbox to subframe.

Nope get a new coil and it'll be fine.

If its not knocking then its normal.

Sounds good, looks like it could do with a new middle exhaust mount rubber though as its hanging pretty low.

Illiad Blue on a vee.

You don't with the incartec leads. They just plug into the yellow mini iso connector, much easier can be just with just removing the headunit.

Yes they are a s**t box but not as bad as some people make out. The trouble (imo) stems from the fact that the box design is 20(+) years old, it was never designed as a 5 speed box and was also probably never intended to take the torque/power/abuse they get in a 1*2. It is imo one of the cars...

f**k me, I definetly should be able to get some money off mine then.

I've just had my renewal through from adrain flux, 20 3yrs ncb and its £1500. I recon I can get a hundred or so off that so i'll be sticking with them I think.

rtfm

You need to get the dash top off, theres no way you'll get any fitted through the holes imo. They don't perfectly line up with the tweeter mounting holes, and I don't think they'll fit through the hole in the dash either.

What gauge is the cable? I've fitted a 4awg cable through easily.