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The glass will be pulling on the speaker wires when it comes down. No biggy, chuck it into a stealers and let them sort it if its under warrenty.

You 100% need the cam locking bar and the crank locking pin. Far too easy to loose the timing otherwise, other than that its just a b*****d of the job due to lack of access really.

They look quite good tbh, the only thing that worries me with them is that the filter is quite a small size really.

Seriously needs lowering but looks very smart otherwise.

Ok instead of euro is old how about euro is shite? Looks f**king horrible :dead:. Credit for the quality of the shop but still.

^ I'm guessing its a 172 engine and they don't know it yet. Still for what difference it makes. What are you planning doing for management? Or have you got the ecu/uch/decoder ring/key from the donor car? Loom looks to be in a bit of a state?

I'm assuming you've got no ncb? As I insured my 172 at 19 with 2ncb for £1900 with mods easily enough.

Pull the ABS/ESP fuse and it still does it so I guess its got nothing to do with the speed pulse? Trapped wire? Can't really think of anything else it'd effect while moving only.

Right, found out a key symptom. It only does it when the car is moving as i've said before but if you park the car on a hill in neutral the idle will sit properly, take the handbrake off and the car will start rolling the idle will start wandering (haven't touched the pedals or put it in gear)...

bttt

You can get H11 hid kits off the 'bay.

Wasting your time with a powercap, get an uprated battery. Before anyone moans search around on here (http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/) if you want to know why they're crap.

If you retro-fit xenons you'll still have the manual leveling on the dash. A proper xenon fit car will not have the dial and have the adjuster on the back axel. This is why they won't be "legal" as there'll be no auto leveling and no washers.

Yes but these are just the bulb kits. Fine if you've already got projector lenses which you haven't.

T30

The damage is already done if the belts snapped. Turn it over for england.

I've tried another pedal but it was a normal non rs one so I wouldn't mind borrowing the pedal again if you dont mind. Will pm you. Trouble is i've got no resistance values for the pedal at closed and wide open throttle so the only way to test is substitution. Its weird though, was fine for 6...

Also to add the juddering is present at pretty much any rpm when only using light throttle.

Don't bother tbh, LEDs don't suite the interior light you can't see s**t. Look good though.

Yep probably a Type R. Can't be done with this crap, just seems to be one little fault after another at times. Don't really want to get rid but i've got a bad feeling this may end up being a new ecu which I won't be paying for. Anywho, back on topic please :rasp:.

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=281285 Leading on from that the problem has developed and tbh i'm now absolutely stumped, have tried everything I can think of. Basically the problem will present itself when the engine is cold and when just driving around town/normal driving...

Search my good man ;) http://www.fubarnet.com/dashboard.html

Actual cam phasing no i'm not, looking through the docs I believe it is not limited by engine temp and that it functions all the time the engine is 1800-6500rpm. I am 100% sure that its water temp not oil temp for the higher limiter and the other associated functions as theres no oil temp...

Try changing the interior temp sensor. Is the only thing I can think of why it wouldn't change the heat on the fly because it doesn't know the interior temp so it doesn't know whether to go hotter or cooler. The mixing flap stepper motor obviously works otherwise it would be stuck on one temp...

He means since the works been done. Doesn't matter anyway as they'll only read dashes for 1 mile after resetting and it shouldn't flash unless somethings wrong. Take it back and get them to sort it, it'll be related they will have forgotten to initialise something. Or set the ECU up for a none...

Nope, depending on the faults it'll need to go on a clip computer to be cleared or some can be cleared with a normal obd2 interface/reader.

Theres your gospel. Best 100% sure method.

What good is that going to do? It'll jump forward on the starter whether the cambelt is bust or not. Because the starter engages onto the flywheel? He means it'll turn over quickly on the starter due to no load on it because of lack of compression after bending the valves.

Assuming because the way the oil seperator sticks up into the plenum? Didn't know it was different on the 182, hows it done on that?

Hows the boot floor? I've seen them bend with a lesser impact.