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Yes they will. Bit of a mega job too.

It'll either be a new lambda sensor or a cat. Get it booked in with renault and just tell them the light is on and they'll sort it out.

Haven't got a vid but i'm nothing but impressed with mine. Not a lot louder than standard tbh, well until you get to about 4k when a lovely roar appears from somewhere. Plenty of detailed pics here: http://gallery.getflat.co.uk/v/My_Cars/2003_Renaultsport_Clio_172/Maxogen/

I had this happen on my 1.6, I took the connector off the fuel pump/level sender under the rear bench. Cleaned the connectors up (where covered in s**t) banged it back on and problem solved.

What the hell? Thats crap quite frankly. Theres something wrong with both of them then. As none of my 3 have done this, infact none of them i've ever seen that are working correctly have done this. Get in a drive away if you like, no need to leave it idling.

No, on a 1.4 it'll most likely be a coil down. Start it up and unplug/replug them in sequence the one where it doesn't missfire any worse is the shagged one. Dead common on the engines that use pencil coils.

Because its french, in all seriousness theres nothing you can do really. Especially with the electric roof, you can do a few things with the manual but your fucked with the electric i'm afriad. As said just keep the tunes bangin' lol.

Thats renault b****cks at its finest. The wrong/not enough oil causes them to jump out of 5th then kills the box not the knocking you get due to the soft mounts. As I said before they'll take £90 of you and spin you some b****cks.

lol! Get in touch with the stealers, give them your chassis number etc and they'll give you the code for the standard fit radio.

Aye they'll look alreet.

Its the toxic fume warning light, probably something wrong with the cat. Is it under warrenty?

Looking good, although the left hand pipe wants moving over some as its off line. Vid deffo required.

Quality, nice plate that.

Its a CAT2 transponder immobilser which is rather good, and if its got an alarm fitted its a cobra CAT2->1 jobbie and its passable.

Yeh he had 172 wheels on his 1.2 before he sold it. You'll need hubcentric spacers and longer bolts with 15mm, think it all tots up to about 80 notes or so. Bloody dear for some chunks of metal tbh, but they are the only things holding the wheels on so I wouldn't skimp. Bearing wear isn't...

That brand new bulb isn't the right one as standard spec is 4300k so it won't match the other bulb. And 6000k for pure white light? lying b*****ds 6000k is blue as fvck! You want a 4300k bulb.

Could be a number of things, it needs to go on clip unfortunately.

5mm for the rear to stop it scrubbing. 15mm all round will look loads better, me and Has fitted some on his old 1.2 and it looked spot on!

Don't worry its a dynamique, CD player wasn't standard dynamique spec on 2002 models.

No they weren't. Can't remember if it was just the early ones or the Ph2s or what but a CD wasn't standard, i've seen a good few with tapes in.

Which Phase is it? Only the Ph1s didn't have transponder immobilsers iirc, well thats the case with the Valvers/Williams anyway.

I'd say thats quite possibly the problem. Never even noticed it before! :o

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-723-castrol-epx75w80w-gear-oil.aspx That will be fine. I've used it before in JB1/3 gearboxes and was an improvement over standard. Now whether it'll make the difference you've been told I doubt.

Thats assuming its got ABS, some/most of the Ph1 1.2s didn't.

You'll have to swap all the ancilliraries(sp?) over ie manifolds etc but it should fit afaik.

That makes sense then as the throttle doesn't open 90degrees to the body.

The wires being the same colour are irrelevant really as it'll change between 2 or 3 looms before it gets to the cut off switch from the fuel pump and they don't keep the colours the same. They other two are for the fuel gauge. Yep giving it a 12v feed would be one way of testing but you have...

They're made of cast iron so they'll rust like no tomorrow anyway. Stop being such a jessy? :rasp: Otherwise paint and thats about it, not sure there would be much stuff that could hack the heat though.

All you need is a press to press the old bearing out and back into the new discs, bit of a false economy though tbh.

ET37 sticks out further.