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Been there and done that, bin it and get another one they never repair as they were before.

I've always done mine with hammerite and as said left 20 mins between coats and then left it for a few hours before I drove the car. Never had a problem.

limp home mode its called. Could be a variety of things on the 1.2 16v but i'd check to see if the ECU cover is cutting through the loom first.

Brilliant photo as said, deffo not a fan of the spacers though wheels stick out too much imo.

I've got some Infinity Kappa 50.7cs components up front running of a JBL 75.4 amp, not to difficult to install really.

Your after D2S hid bulbs. Just google them theres plenty of places that sell them. The standard bulbs are 4300k.

Knackered siren?

Xenons or 172 front bumper?

Not very is the short answer. Bumper off headlights out to change them really. Not as daunting as it sounds either.

finishing tonight bump!

Dip beam is H7 Main beam is H1 Sidelights are normal wedge type. Thats what they should be.

On my 1.6 it did just pull off, a good yank and it came off. Don't know if the 1*2 one is any different?

I did pretty much what your on about, had a 1.2 at 17 with was £1800 to insure then had a 1.6 at 18 which was £980 to insure then got the 172 at 19 and payed £1700 again! Its worth it as long as you've got the spare cash, I wouldn't want to be skinting myself for a car. Number one rule is go on...

No should be fine afaik?

100% i've had one to pieces and its deffo not got a syncro on reverse on the JB/JC series box. The renault repair manual doesn't show it either??? (or the one i've got doesn't) You'd be able to put it in reverse whilst rolling if it did without it crunching ala ford MTX75 box.

Any idea on the cost of a 172 coil pack fred?

There all together as one. The leads are intergral to the coil pack.

Don't put it into reverse as quickly after you've put the clutch down, theres no syncro on reverse and the internals are still spinning hence why it crunches.

Nope not as far as I know. There the same shell, front subframe is strenghened on the RS (all of them) but body wise there identical. The only different on the 182 shell I know of is the lack of a spare wheel well compared to the 172 and Mk2 Ph2/3/4. The Ph1 shell does differ slightly to the...

They tend to misfire when the coil packs dying.

As yours is a Ph3 (i think) you need the dials from a Ph3 due to something with the way the rev counter is done on the D7F DIET engine.

The 21 would help you, as you know I found adrain flux to be the only people that were reasonable(ish!). Thats 19 w/2NCB, being 21 might help you alot think theres a few people on here that are insured at that with numerous people. You'll manage it I think just not with NU.

And from my experience NU won't touch you I don't think.

A wet damper basically where the fluids been leaking. You should be able to see it easily enough, if your not sure grab a few pics.

Does the squeek get less frequent as you slow down? Was wondering if they'd had some hammer and the copaslip had dried out so it was just the pads squeeling. But if its rithmic(sp?) like that I wouldn't go with brake, leaking damper is a possibility. Get it jacked up and have a look.

You braking at the time it squeeks? Does the frequency change with speed or is it constant?

Can be done easily enough, harder if you want if run new cable into the doors. If your not going for mega power and can use the standard loom them its easily enough done.

You'll end up wanting one of them then! :rasp:

Got to agree tbh, 340 a month for a 182 is a lot of money. Finance company must be loving it!, stay with the mini in your situation.

Can only assume theres water in the ballast or starter, its shorting out somewhere for it to keep blowing fuses.