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There removed afaik.

A mate has a lowered 96 1.5, never mentioned anything out of the ordinary so I assume so.

Correct ^

Circa £100 imo.

All the Mk2 subframes are the same no matter whatever anyone says, the only difference with the RS subframe are that they have two extra holes in them for the extra front gearbox mount. And you can just drill them. Get any Mk2 subframe, drill two new holes and bingo your away.

Nah the ones that clamp onto the chassis. So you say they've got a cut in them so I can remove the arb clamp, take the bush off and then refit the new one with the ARB in situe?

One of mine is shot and the noise is really starting to wind me up now so I want to change the ARB bushes. Now judging from how stiff the powerflux bush in my dogbone mount is I think i'll be better of using standard bushes unless anyone has tried the powerflex? Had a quick look at the haynes...

Ditto, not probably the best idea though really. But hey it works for me atm.

From my personal experience i'd be worrying about the subframe too.

Stiffen everything up, gearstick doesn't move about any more whilst your driving and its much nicer to use the box as its not moving around as much. Tradeoff is increased vibration on idle.

That DC5 is filth tbh :evil:. Mine got the wash treatment today so is looking quite spangly atm. Naff phone pic unfortunately, yes brilliant parking I know but I was nipping in and out.

In the Mk3 they do, but afiak in the Mk1 and Mk2 there cambelted. Could be wrong though.

Not in my experience. And are completely lethal in the wet.

Err yes you can. Mine came with one from the factory and the polybushing it improved it no end.

A knackered CV joint gaiter. Hence the grease all over the hub that should be inside the gaitor lubricating the joint.

They look very similar to the ones I get from the stealers for £27, except the drivers mat has fixings with it.

Use mine, nice feature really could live without but if i've got them why not use them. You have to have your lights on in tunnels etc in europe so thats why they've got auto lights iirc.

Just to add I haven't bothered cutting anything out of mine, just keep an eye on where its wearing the liner to make sure nothing sharp is going to be rubbing the tyre.

Not too keen on the exterior personally, but fair play to the bloke for taking on such a massive task. And bugger me he can weld.

I'd say no chance in hell you'll get it apart. I had a xenon cluster broken in the post and I tried in vain to get it open to repair it, no go. They lights only come as a complete until and i'm not sure on the halogen ones but the xenon clusters are £200 each, good old renault prices as per.

There held in by clips, if you remove the bumpers you can unclip them from the back and push them through. The other option is a little brute force and ignorance and going carefully unclipping them with the bumpers still fitted.

Ahh thought you f7r'd it. Nevermind something for the future eh.

The issue is with the Clio needing a 60.1mm center bore. Or is the saxo the same?

This got an F7R in it like the old one?

The seat would move up and down the thread. And you'd have developed continously variable ride height. ie not good.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. :D

New one is better by far. Your car would look the s**t colour coded.

Why do people put Opel badges on Vauxhauls? Its the same kinda idea really. Would imagine its Nissan seing as Renault own them.

Eagles 100% best tyre i've used. Won't be using anything else in a hurry.

Don't bother with magnatec full stop, made mine sound like a skeleton having a w**k in a biscuit tin.