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Faulty egr or wiring issues near egr plug.

Easy fix that. I found the oem nut/washer binds them up when fully tightened. New washer and nut solved the issue, failing that removing a mm of the brass on a belt sander will give the same result.

Updates Daily driver this week, why not. Ive been having fun driving it and low mpg is the result. Apart from that its perfect, fast enough, easy to drive, ac ice cold etc what more do you need for a daily?! Anyway i snipered a set of radiator ducts from U pull it a few weeks ago as mine were...

With this done i give it a clean off as front was covered in flies and loads of road muck up the sides. Gtechniq fallout remover to reactivate the ceramic, Gtechniq bug remover, BH autofoam, Gtechniq Gwash and rinsed off with water filter/blow dried. Sounds like a 3 hour wash, in reality it was...

Updates. Noticed n/s rear brake pad had worn on the piss when getting tyres changed last week. Ive never touched the rear brakes on this and this was the first time the rear wheels have actually been off in my ownership - rear pad notch was not located in the piston cutout..rectified it before...

The handbrake mech is an absolute pain in the arse from memory. Front ones are a breeze in comparison.

Prob a bad injector. Test the resistance of the injectors, should give you an indication if one is knackered

Usually end up with a right mess of brake fluid/trying to get the piston over the seal with caliper in situ :LOL:

If all else fails new calipers are around £35 each.

As above piston starting to seize, its not knackered yet if its moved back in though. Wind piston out as far as you dare to inspect, prob see a little corrosion. Be mindful if you wind out too far piston comes out and your in the s**t :LOL: Clean piston up with scotchbrite and wd40, lube up...

Sounds like the febi guy is a "if it doesnt match your reg" then its going to end up in flames type of person. The 172/182 balljoints are nothing special. If its a m12 type send it. Check pin thickness with a vernier if your worried.

Most likely, looked similar to a 172 one from memory.

Orange dci update. Used orange dci all last week. Had a couple of start up/conk out then start up ok on 2nd attempt chucking eml on briefly. Assumed fuel system issues and scanned with clip to diagnose. Can clip diagnostics A few faults stored but no fuel related codes. Digging a bit deeper...

The one i drove with grp n timing also could cut out in certain circumstances, i guess its due to the limits of what can be mapped on stock ecu. When i drove it, i was heel and toeing it and never noticed, but my mate said it done it to him occasionally.

Didnt expect any less than a clean pass mate 👌 Certainly no need to be pulling the engine apart yet imo. Oil seals hardening with age/lack of use is a real issue sadly. If you use it parts wear out, if you dont use it parts also wear out. Cant win!

Good upgrade over oem if you want less bodyroll.

Aftermarket springs will stiffen it up and lower rideheight in most cases. Eibach sportline would be a suitable matched spring.

I had a go in one recently with the same setup and went suprisingly well. I think the only downside is emissions etc, if thats an issue.

Prob need new one sadly. I tried to get one out of an old megane block and had no joy. Its a knock in, almost interference fit.

Bang on @Mr Trailer Man Full scan takes ages, i usually guess what ecu is called on cars im not used to scanning to save time. Tip for renolink, if its in french use the google translate app on your phone via camera to find out what it is.

Updates Had a couple of hours spare so fitted the new brakes front and rear yesterday. Brembo HC plain discs/Ferodo Ds1.11 pads up front. Snr plain rear discs and Ferodo Ds2500 on the rear. Rear discs not coated so splashed some vht paint on the centres to stop flash rust. Interestingly i...

Updates. Blue meg in for ac regas last Friday. Ac time Ac was working before and compressor was kicking in just not very cool, it is working fine again now recharged though. We will see if it holds and go from there. Thanks for reading!!

Updates. New 205 50 15 Nankang crs fitted yesterday. The profile is slightly wider than the old 205 r888r but fits without issue on et43 speedlines. Nankang crs look sexy Sidewall feels stiffer and turn in even more precise. There is less tyre noise than the old r888r too. I also give it...

I thought that would be the issue sadly.

It should have the thread in the block as oem but does depend on what adaptor bolt has been used. The oem thread into the block to filter is cheap new if you need one.

I tell a lie crank keyway goes straight up and down when crank is in correct position instead of lining up

Id check length of the pin your using. Are you following workshop manual?

Not needed on a road car, id be taking it off personally. Debatable if needed on a track car from experience too. Oil will be too cool if no thermostatic plate.

Whats the issue? Belt change? Might need another revolution to get tensioner in the window. Also check correct crank pin length and the keyway mark is lined up in oilpump casing. Last person who has done belt might not have moved cam pulley bolts.

Plugs always come loose on f4r if not torqued to spec. 28nm from memory, so need to be a bit tighter than usual.