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Yes that’s a cup alternator . As it’s in-line top to bottom also it has no thread for the swing bolt . You will need to buy a long bolt and nut to accomplish securing it to the block bracket . 75amp works fine with EPAS , just be cautious when using all the electrics at once if a road car ...

100% it will fit . New plug has pins A & B Match the old plug wires A & B Temp join the new plug to the OE loom and see if she fires up , if she does she’s golden to solder [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m open to your suggestions , poss a t-piece of some sort . Issue is it’s another weak point in the line to poss fail maybe. [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It can be yes , I can supply a long pipe to reach the container / floor. Message me and we can chat [emoji187] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I make these , is this what your after ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The locking pin will locate in its slot so long as the flywheel is at the zero degree mark on the gearbox Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Forget the woodruff key , it doesn’t come into play at all . The cut mark on the flywheel is the only tdc mark you are concerned with to time it correctly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How you check your at TDC is off the gearbox marks . There is a cut mark in the flywheel and a zero point in the box . The pin slots in at that point and only when at tdc number 1 . You can confirm by where the rotor is on the distributor cap , firing cylinder 1 is closest to flywheel end...

You got me on that one pal Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Erm , looks like your air con is non functional ? Is that correct . Anyway moving on . Mist coming from air vents with air con not functioning will 100% be coolant spray from a leaking heater matrix . The spray from a poss pin hole size leak is getting into the heater air flow and being blown...

Spider mount needs dropping , so box sits on subframe , a little bend of the inner flitch and she’s out . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have the pressure switch close by , unscrew that and turn engine over with crank sensor disconnected to try and bleed out any air . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Uphill is fine to bleed the air out , also jack up one side only and then manually bleed by doing lock to lock without the engine running. 20-30 turns lock to lock and try and see if that helps . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would only suggest replacing the seal. That’ll mean the gearbox has to be stripped and prob end up being a refurb while your there . Weigh up costs of that vs a second hand box I guess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was messaging him this morning on Instagram , could have been a lot worse than what it actually was . Shame it’s happened , and I can only advise getting a set of the NLC version. I have a set of those and have not had an issue at all , only general maintenance on replacing the rose joints...

Shaftec as you probably heard are s**t , Lobroe are German and 100% better quality . I think I would be buying that one for sure . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the one you need . I lists that part number in the description https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323894863655 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How long would it take you to do 20 thousand miles ? Ages I’d say , rebuild after x amount of years . I’ll be going gripper for sure . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went ITBs and kept my RS2 for that rainy day . So glad I’ve not sold it . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There should be at least 5 power circuits to the plugs 3 in 1 2 in other Have you those ?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just out of curiosity, what CV boots you using then as OE outers we’re thermoplastic , the only rubber one is the right side inner . Left side inner CV boot has the bearing on . I’ve not come across CVJ’s before to replace these or the inner spider bearings . I have OE CV boots and at some...

Link above didn’t work for me. Sounds like a dephaser for sure . Copy paste this into YouTube GYcRvyWvYus

What I did with mine was , where the ports are , one of the two big ones I left off , turned the steering to full lock one way and then when the steering was turned in the other direction it sucked in the fluid as I syringed it in . Approx 250-350ml. That was it and it was fine. Sent from my...

Yes would be interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You engine is not an F4R It is an F7R , slightly different setup for a Clio from 98-2005. I suggest trying to find the wiring diagram for that specific engine era and then can work out what goes where. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So poss a Clio valver loom then ? If the ecu is in a plastic box , the valver had that type and used to sit under the scuttle osf. Trying to find the wiring diagram for that car I think maybe a start . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This loom looks like it’s off an early Renault going by the connections. Pre 99 or there abouts. What ecu are you going to be using ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes , disconnect it from bracket on engine and let it hang supported [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No need to disconnect the a/c , it will swing out the way in the drivers side . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://itstillruns.com/bad-valve-seals-symptoms-7448959.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk