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yes, but its not that simple with the RSi as I've said.. the inlet and exhaust manifolds are on the same side, which could cause issues

take it 1/8NPT is the fitment for the oil pressure switch? :D good to know... I'm using a mk1 pressure sender - it's electrical, but dont know if it sends a standard signal or not where did you get the t piece from?

can still loose the fuel cap ;)

its fairly straight forward, but ideally you need a whole donor car, otherwise you'll forever be buying little bits easier to buy a valver

is it worth it?

I understand I can check them [the clearances] myself, what happens if its out? *if* it's all good, I can then start bolting it back together?

the crank and and rods are being sent to stan who is going to measure and advise if its possible if he grinds it and supplies oversize bearings etc... is that not the clearances done? or am I missing something :o

that's if it has actually been done... I don't think it has. what would be the problem if its properly ground to within tolerances and rebuilt up? surely it would be no worse than a standard one and I'd also know the condition of the engine, rather than risk getting another

crank is going to be sent off to be ground (properly this time) with new bearings etc... I figure its the best way, as once its all back together, I'll know exactly what the engine is like, rather than getting another one and risking it

wow... just... wow that's incredible, never seen anything like it!! :D :D :D

it might be, the fell off and i placed them back in for the purpose of the picture :o

took it all apart this morning... here are some pics what are these removable things? :? (on #2) from the pulley end going to the flywheel end: fun!

but saxos have the exhaust out the front don't they?

:S Dan clearly has no clue what he's doing but it doesnt look impossible to send the crank off to someone reputable and rebuild it up... how hard can it be ;) is there a workshop manual for rebuilding the BE? torque settings etc... - can only find one for inserting new shell bearings

about 5 miles ago (taking into account the idling on my drive) or maybe 2 months?

do you have wood on your doorcard? :dead:

#1 conrod #2 conrod #1 crank #2 my mistake, the bearing is on there, it's clearly just spun #2 shell bearings #2 crank apologies for rubbish pics, its 2am and quite dark :D

:eek: ok, bear with me lol

still want pics? :p

Tomorrow!

the inlet is on the back of the RSi and is integrated (ish) with the exhaust not sure how you'd over come that, having the inlet and outlet on one side

should be fine as long as he double clutches

reasonably, i did compare the thickness of it to the others to see if that was the case, but it didn't look any different - but im not 100% on that so i'll have to check tomorrow :)

had a good thorough look incase I dropped them or something... but nope, no conrod or cap bearing in #2! the others are all there and look fine (but what do I know :p)

I'm fairly sure 10mm will fit, i'll try a few options (got a great nut n bolt shop!) got the pistons out, couldnt get the crank out as the 2 E14 bolts that hold the crank down on the flywheel end are in a hole thats too narrow for my E14 bit :|... think I found the problem though... cylinder...

I'm going to persevere with it... rather have one built that I know what has been done... I'll get someone who knows what they're doing to do the tolerances etc... for references, its an E8 bit that gets the bolts out... and the bolts are stupid! think I'm going to replace them all with 10mm...

cheers :)

yup, i'll be asking that later :D (or are the instructions on dialogys?) what E bit do I need to remove the sump bolts?

You have no faith in my engine Fred, makes me :dapprove:

oh yes, I'm back with s'more questions :evil: :cool: I've got the engine out and the head off and I want to take the bottom end apart... what's the correct proceedure? flip upside down, remove flywheel (do I need to note how it came off?), unbolt sump, unbolt oily bits inside, remove...