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From what I understand fully throttle is already reached before you have mashed it well into the carpet, but physically you will always still find yourself pushing the throttle as hard as you can!
Get it! I use it on my mates house of colour and chrome illusion finishs on his bikes works a tret.
Any foam applicator will be fine- I use some generic non branded yellow ones, Meguiars ones, Zymol or Swissol ones whatever I grab first.
The range of waxes proper from Halfords is a litlle limited and what they do sell carnuba wax wise is a bit poor IMO.
Best of getting some Autoglym Super Resin and Extra Gloss Sealant if your going the Halfords route and mail ordering a decent wax.
Liquid waxes where introduced mainly for machine application.
I find paste waxes much easier for hand application.
Megs #26 ? - is ok looks reasonable and lasts ok, not as easy on off off or as good looking as it's rivials. Not the one I would recommend over others tbh.
Working by hand I would look at a process more suited to hand application. You will get it done in a day but not sure on the degree of sucess you will have without a machine.
Is a good looking process in machine based routine. By hand look at:
Wash and Clay
Scratch X as needed, Clearkote...
Anything left on the surface to remove is just excess/wasted product. Working it till it is gone ensures you have worked it properly allowing the polishing part of the product to do it's job.
Saves time in no dust to clean up thats all. I know the dusting really bugs some people.
s**t I have given you ?
I have asked you questions about your product and got no proper replies.
How old are you ? - "I hope to meet you some day to go over old ground" Whatever next :rolleyes:
AG SRP only needs to be applied in a thin coat, if you use to much when you remove it you will get the dusting issue people dislike.
With a foam applicator a panel at a time use about with a 5p sized blob, work it on the panel till it is almost invisable and them remove it.
WTF - It is not my stuff, I dont sell it I just buy it and try and advise others on what works and does not - Good luck in your venture! Send me a tin down and I will do you a write up ;) ( I offered to buy one the other day asking you to PM me with your details for payment but nothing came...
Sam as a hand polish AG SRP is hard to beat, enough cut to correct mild defects, leave a nice finish and one sealnst will bond to. Even by machine it comes alive. As long as you apply it well, nice and thin so it does not dust. It will always be on my shelf.
Cusco you also ignored my post...
Yeap no probs on the front screen here. No need to do you free advertising pitch on me I have tried most products on the markety and now what works and what does not.
You remind me of the Mer product guy at car shows who sets fire to his bonnet!
So it is a polish and wax/sealant then?
Vandalism, are you saying it resists key scratches etc now?
Can you please post some shots/pictures of the product and labels as asked before?
I use waxes or sealants to protect my paint.
I use polishes to 'polish' ie restore gloss and correct defects not protect paint.
Any good wax will provide the same effects on glass as you describe. I just use whatever wax I am using at the time.
I do have a few to choose from though! ;)...
The are some good ones for light dirt.
Heavier dirt there are some decent ones that are not true waterless but are at least rinseless.
http://www.seriousperformance.co.uk/Products,69,toView_98.html
I used the above at Trax last year.
Two ways of using after washing.
While the car is wet, spray it on a panel and wipe off as you dry.
If you have dried the car or are just removing light dust from a dry car. Spray some on a panel, wipe off with a soft plush microfiber.
Just remember the important details.
The drive home in my 4000 mile 182 reminded my very much of the first time I drove a 182.
So a fairly fair day of comparisons a 6K 197 vs my 4k 182 - and the 197 lacked pace.