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LOL! Ernie's magic dust was a leaf blower!

Wish I had known, my mate works for them!

:dead:

Pro Bolt? - Local company to me http://www.tastynuts.com/site/frameset.htm

Any car handles better than an Astra GTE!

Yeap top one looks much better. :rasp:

The main deep gloss and wet look comes from the polishing stage, the sealants and waxes are just the icing on the cake. Prepare the paint first with a good polish and glaze to get the look you want. Some nice kits Alex, shame everyone I know refuses to buy me products for Xmas lol I normally...

Just a Canon 350D and a few lenses.

I just apply it with a microfiber cloth or microfiber hand pad, and remove the excess and buff with a clean one.

Sod the Black mouldings tasteless one!

An additional conditioner, not cheap but will add to the suppleness the 1Z leaves. Zaino Z10 http://www.advancedcarproducts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=12%5FZ10 Not essential as the 1Z leather care both cleans and conditions. I tend to use the 1Z every 3 months of so, and use the Z10 conditioner...

Unfortunatley not Debs - available here http://www.cleanandshiny.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?ProductID=9953 Well worth ordering IMO though. Best leather product I have found (and I have tried a few!) Won't use anything else on the 182. Cleans and conditions.

Rubber seals, unpainted plastics - though some products are fine if they get on them.

Einzett 1Z leather care - about 6 quid from Clean and Shiny, cleans and conditions. I sometimes follow that up with Zaino Z10 Leather Conditioner. Both are non greasy and just leave a natural factory look and feel.

A few more

Can supply Hi Res if needed.

Some of the above will feature, won't be staying Phase Ugly though.

Do it, I am planning to do something similar when I find a suitable cheap tatty example of a phase 1

Price? - Meant for single stage Black paint, has coloured pigment in it so will mute the metallic flakes. There is some decent priced Zymol Carbon and Titanium on ebay at the moment which will be better suited.

Steve's on Trophy rims

Whole car or a panel at a time on and off, works both ways.

No need to repolish - wash, dry and wax or sealant. I would be tempted to wash, dry, use a nice glaze and then seal.

The SRP lightly polishes and chemical cleans the paint leaving a suitable base for the EGP to bond to allowing the polymers to do there thing. Mixing the two means you are getting a slightly quicker way of doing things thats all, at the sacrifice of durability. Adding a a layer of just the EGP...

Looks wise maybe there is no difference, but to get maximum durability out of the EGP you are better off applying coats of that on its own.

With EX I have always done the whole car that way, watch out if it is damp outside as this will hinder removal. I don't use a damp applicator with Nattys but you can spritz it first with some QD if you like. Not the easist carnuba on or off, but by no means hard work. Panel at a time for that...

You said it! :quiet:

Poorboys EX or EX-P? Not used either for a while, the EX I used to apply to the whole car and then remove. The EX-P either to the whole car or a panel at a time. By hand here, PC for sealants seems to waste alot of product being absorbed into the pad.

If they make a mess that much by washing it sure as hell dont let them use a machine on it to polish them out. Will be hard work and probably won't all come out by hand, will need a machine polish IMO.