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Used slicks can be a lottery. Some maybe relatively new with decent tread but heat cycled out.
If heat cycled out they tend to be like plastic and feel rock hard. I always ask the sellers what car and race series they came from and if they still feel tacky and soft enough you can dig a finger...
You can use wheel and tyre sizes to slightly adjust final drive too.
If I use 16s with a 45 sidewall at Oulton it means I can stay in 4th down island straight before hitting the limiter at 107mph. With 15s and a 45 sidewall I'm having to shift into 5th at 103mph just before braking. Its...
Go with 15s, there's zero gains running 17s.
Plenty of slick tyre choice too. Dunlop, Michelin, MRF, Hankook etc.
I run Hankook ventus F200 on my MR2 in 15s and they are fantastic. 200/580/15 but the actual contact patch are nearly as wide as my 225 45 15 AR1's.
Once you drop the coolant, use a hose pipe to run through the system before filling with new coolant. Cant remember if the housing is plastic or metal? If metal just re-use, if plastic buy new. Cant remember what I did when I changed mine on the 182. Dont remember it being a tough job though.
What's the deal here? Never fitted a new clutch. I'm reading info a clutch should be bedded in gently over 300-500 city miles, surely not.
The kit is only LUK OE and my car has as much torque as a lawn mower.
Still not managed to drop it on its wheels, but when in gear with the engine off I can spin one of the hubs, it doesn't lock like its in gear, and the other shaft spins the opposite direction. With the engine on and in gear i can stop one of the hubs from spinning.
As@JamesBryan mentioned this...
Just changed the clutch on my MR2 and after bolting it all back together, with just the hubs attached on stands, I can change gear without the clutch.
The hubs are spinning quite fast in neutral so thinking that its spinning fast enough to match gears without the clutch?
In gear it definitely...
If the valves aren't moving with the crank turning then it doesn't look good. Sounds like the belts gone. Did you rotate the crank whilst viewing the belt?
Remove the plugs to see what they look like, and whilst they're out turn the crank again and look at the belt as it turns. The aux belt runs the alternator so it may not start without the belt and a drained battery.
Jeez, what a bloody minefield. Cant find a definitive answer online on what to use. Was just going to use a spear of this below, but not sure now?
Liqui Moly - LM47 Long Life Grease with MoS2 - High Performance - 100g - 3510 | eBay
Only clutch kit I can find for the MR2 with discount is from Larkspeed, but never heard of the brand DriveTorque :unsure:
DriveTorque Stage 1 Clutch Kit Toyota Celica 1.8i 16v (09/99 >) Eng Code 2ZZGE | eBay
Well worth it that. Mine is £300 on the MR2 and an extra few hundred quid for 6 track days is a bargain. Its £60-70 for one days track insurance normally.
Do they cover mods like for like though?
Another cheap 2ZZ Roadster going here on MR2OC, needs a few minor bits and MOT but i'd bet he'd take £2k for it.
2000 PFL 2ZZ Roadster for Sale (mr2roc.org)
I've owned this car for around 4 years now, and it's been great fun on the road and the track. But my priorities have changed so don't...
AO52 sounds like a good option as I find most UK track days up north are damp, and my current AR1's are hopeless in these conditions as are my Rainsport 5's.
These sound like a great in-between option.
£668 a set for mine, 225/50/15 rear - 205/50/15 front versus £492 for AR1's in the same sizes.
Should be able to feel the diff working in these greasy conditions. Have you fully planted the throttle with steering angle on? Roundabout exits are great for this.
Need to replace the clutch kit on my MR2 2ZZ over winter and the OE kit from these comes in at a good price compared to other brands like LUK, Exedy, Sachs, Valeo etc, to which all prices have shot up this week for some reason. The CC kit also comes with a clutch alignment tool, see below.
I...