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If the noise goes when revs are increased its most likely the dephaser.

Matteh's PAS fluid leaked onto his wrapped manifold and the back of the bay went up in flames on track IIRC, so the danger is there!

With all this rig-up talk, wonder what my brick-tek engine would make, or where it is for that matter. Hmmmmm.

6 Pin Connector: 1- Horn 2- 3- 12v 4- Indicator Output to Front+Rear Clusters (RH) 5- Feed From Hazard Switch 6- Indicator Output to Front+Rear Clusters (LH) 4 Pin Connector 1- Main Beam (Goes to Scuttle Fusebox then to headlight, 15A) 2- Dipped Beam (Goes to Scuttle Fusebox then to...

f**king LOL. Got a pic gime 5.

You'l just have to try it im afraid, if its the same as mine it wont fit :( I have the same brackets on the F4R, tried to fit a 172 alternator but it sits over too far slightly one way and doesnt line up with the tensioning bracket properly, so im still running the Mk1 alternator!

Some spacers on the back would finish it, looks good!

I think its just one perm feed with no fuse to the stalk. Then the stalk feeds the headlights etc directly (goes out to scuttle panel fusebox on a Mk1) then out of that to the headlight and so on... Its just a modified standard williams loom at the moment, but its due a re-wire shortly to which...

My cars a Ph2, well 2.5 i think. Just using the indicator and light stalk, wiper one is removed/stripped from loom. What do you need to know, what goes to what pin? that all?

Brake/Carb Cleaner from local factors for a few quid as said :) Removal wise, pull the pipe off the airbox and inlet, then undo the 10mm nuts holding the bracket on that supports the valve itself. Undo the connector on top and it should come free.

Gime half hour, Ive got a list I made from when I wired mine up (Ph2) somewhere. Il see what I can find if you are in no major rush for it

Hmmmm...what Phase

They looked mega stupid on the back, far far far too small lol. I cant find the pic at the moment though.

I have a picture somewhere with 13's on the back of my old Mk1, il have a look lol. The 5' wheels I tried for a laugh would not fit over front brakes properly, other 13's might though.

Put hosepipe down side of engine and blast the subframe off...take it for a drive then leave something under the car, plastic/cardboard. Then see if it leaks any more. If it does id be checking for cracks in the box if its not the shaft

Leaking from gaitor on the passenger side input to the box?

Yup

Hes using 1*2 box, his proper project thread is over on RTOC

Re: The lowwwwwww ph2 remake - Progress Thread I had 7mm spacers, no arch liners and modified the bumper bracket to get it lower

Its not 'normal' really, its just when the dephaser goes noisy/worn. Sounds nothing like it with a brand new dephaser pulley on it.

Tapping? Knocking? Or sound like... OpdEFOiCo6Q

No worries, ive been informed the easiest way to get them out is to tack a bolt onto the back of them with the welder, then undo and replace with proper headed 8.8 bolts. Thanks anyway everyone!

Its already done, just need to confirm one ECU pin when I get a minute. Il get it finished tomorrow probably

Either bad earth or wired upto the wrong pin on the alternator (if its a Mk1 2 pin connector on the alt) At the end of the day its only a warning to say if the alt isnt charging properly really, just a signal wire connected up wrongly it sounds like

Using 172 or Mk1 alternator?

Yup, was about to say. Ive broke plenty and its all been replaced with no problems!

Better pic. Defo looks like a RIBE or E-Torx but god knows where to get one from

If you decide to go with Halfrauds, make sure you find someone with a trade card, tools are DIRT cheap when using it.

That looks similar again yeah. Everything seems to be male tools again though, rather than the female version I would need for the bolt!

After a bit of looking around, it looks like a RIBE / Polydrive head. But, I can only seem to find those types in male tools, where I need a female one. Does anyone know what the pattern is? And where I can get a tool... Thanks.