Search results

Peco takes me back..i thought they had shut shop and renamed as something else. The quality used to be turd years ago are they any better now ?

Update, Kangoo has been running great since last hiccup, no issues to report. Adjusted rear brake compensator, wound it off fully and the brakes felt a little bit lacking, but sharper pedal. Took it to my local garage and they let me run it up on the brake rollers to check out brake force and...

Ive only really drove a stock cup packed 182 on track so hard to compare handling. Its very planted, no understeer unless you overdrive it.

You can set the multiplex settings to remove airbag ecu from multiplex iirc, that would prob work if you wanted to bin the airbag ecu. I tried it but still had the serv light on (my airbag light does not work for some reason not taped up either ?) found airbag ecu stashed behind dash so set all...

I turned up at 10am and no space for me to park up on the stand so just abandoned the Kangoo next to the show & shine. Trade stands were gash as usual. Ticket price is getting to be a joke now, they must have made a fortune to be fair with the amount of cars on the stands.

I would be looking at the wheel bearing and cv joint if the car is running stock suspension. I have had similar wheel bearing issues on other cars.

Small pin hole will repair fine. Brake cleaner the grease off around the hole so its spotless - A dab of epoxy resin works great or even better is a small piece of rubber superglued or stuck on with epoxy. Done a small pinhole on my Kangoo before cs festival and not seen a drop of grease come...

Clean the plastics down well before applying it to remove any old trim residue, use ipa or whatever. It goes on easy enough with the applicator, one coat is enough.

Pump shot, had the same issue on mine. What about ditching the aux driven pump and fitting a saxo electric pump (or similar electric pump) onto the hpas setup, a bit like the gen2 cup racer setup. Failing that epas is another option.

Plug it in and get it scanned with clip mate, saves the guesswork.

Stock gear rod is fine not had any issues on track. Is engine rocking all over the place ? The pms is great worth every penny too so much better than stock setup.

Meg250cup all day long. The prices are starting to drop so should get a decent one with change from 10k. I have recently seen a couple of non cups for sale for silly cheap too, could add lsd box etc depends if you want the hassle i guess.

Thats pretty much scrap at the moment as better shells are available. Give it ten years and people will be queing to buy it ?

Is it just a case of reconfig ecu and clocks and add wiring to suit regardless of uch model ?

11t engine pretty much identical to gtt lump. If early 11t engine it will probably have a baffled sump so worth checking if not done already. Should be nice with forged bits, not tempted to go efi whilst on with it ? Im building my new engine for my extra van soon unsure whether to forge or...

Did you program the new uch with a clone clip ? I fancy cruise on my dci - would a n3 uch work on the pov spec loom as mine is n1 from memory.

Aftermarket springs probably the wrong length get some new or used oem

Superb welding @M.C.. that looks better than the tool i bought that has grips inside to remove inner tie rod

I had some uniroyals on my r5gtt a couple of years back, 2001 date stamp they were all over the place especially in the wet despite good tread. Put a set of new tyres on and the handling was transformed. I personally wont run tyres more than 5 years old after that as they are ditchfinder...

You wont stop the rust unless treated properly. If you dont care about it put silver duct tape over it if it rots through or cover the rust patch with thick grease

Does the rs tuner map make the pump prime every click of ign ? Im sure i read it somewhere. Been sniffing about for a replacement intank reg but not found anything yet to save buying the full sender.

Voltage at the fuel pump is rock solid no issues there. I rewired a new plug on sender and new pump relay.

The tracking is always out after a new hub or suspension work, get the toe set again

That meg dci looked like a steal for the price was tempted myself

It will be louder with no rear seats but shouldnt be too bad. Check wheel bearings and also old knackered tyres can be noisy. If your running any kind of semi slick expect loads of road noise.

I thought it could only be down to a bad connection as all the other wiring looks ok. I guess the 172's are getting to the age where the wiring is about shot - had to chop fuel sender wiring back 4" to get back to decent wiring as it was all black/corroded under the insulation.

Wiring fixed Not sure what caused the fuse to melt - checked lambda wiring and appears to be ok - all i can think is a loose connection on the fuse ? Fuse box pin is knackered so bypassed it with decent gauge wiring and new 30amp fuse & holder. Had it running for a while on the drive and no...

Grand idea that, i need to change the fuel pump in the mrs meg 225 soon will knock something similar up? Bead of weld works awesome when removing the outer casing on a bearing..banjo it out with a chisel when hot

Aye i know they go up and down between 0-1 as narrowband. One min its very slow to respond and instead of linear up and down seems to be jumping all over the place. Have checked connector for corrosion and all good. Its a shame its not wideband as i have a load of sensors kicking about.

Mine with vibratechnics mounts fitted pretty much feels like oem when driving no extra vibration. All i basically done when fitting was leave mounts bolted up but loose, let engine idle for 5 mins to find its own sweet spot then torqued them up.