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clutch res i would imagine

did you put the abs ring on?? sounds like a problem to me

i'd actually say the sunroofed cars have more strength in the roof if you think about it all the sunroof is going to be replaced with is a bit of sheet steel which is flimsy as you like sunroof ones have support to physically hold the thing in

i've read from various places that once the ecu/looms uch etc etc have been disconnected sometimes they lock and need plugging in to clip to be reset before it will allow the engine to start would this still be an issue if i were to send the ecu to be decoded bin the immobiliser etc??

40mm on eibachs

you could bleed 50 litres out of each if you wanted to, you have to keep filling up the res

i was thinking as well, i personally would have thought the renault tools would be scrapped for fitting uprated cams? i'd personally find tdc myself then set the cams to spec with a dti?

i had to grind the holes out on mine to get my goodridge hoses through they are 1.5 times the size of normal ones due to the big nut/thread that holds them on as opposed to the ponsy clip

where abouts are you? can do it for you 50 quid.

what should these readings be then off the top of your head?

on the upper strut mounting bolts you only need them if your camber is out/want to alter your camber

if they increase when oiled its rings if they dont then its headgasket/valves

dosn't sound like sod all to me surprised it runs even more so if its a diesel lol

did you match the plenham to the lower manifold too?

just my time,, lol

the next bit to get to the head gasket,, you mean the head? if you have to ask dont tackle doing a headgasket there is too much involved unless you are talking about the cam cover in which case its self explanitory and is easier than removing the inlet.. just un bolt it

yes they are bigger, and no the mounts on the hubs are different im working on brackets at the mo to fit 172 calipers to 1.2 hubs

he talks sh*t all the mk2's run shocks and springs only mk1s are on torsion bars

yeah rebuilding turbos is a bit tricky not really diy,, there are a good few engine builders out there that will fit new bushes and seals 200 sounds very steep.

remove front hub press hub flange out airchisel whats left of the bearing off of the hub flange remove circlip from hub and press outer race of bearing out press new bearing in fit circlip press flange in to bearing making sure you are pressing on both inner tracks of the bearing refit hub

or if the mot tester you work with tests your car while sat in the office eating a kebab you have just bought him

whats wrong with 5live

ns shaft splines ripped out

that pipe is joined to a fcuk load of other hoses and is a bit of a mare to change

good job its not the renault ones as they have a crap spinning ring on the outside that makes it a bit more tricky to get them off

the bracket they are on about (i would imagine) is one in the middle of the car, there is a mount on the chassis right above the middle of the center section that is not used on the lesser models only has the corrosponding mount on the exhuast for the sports may be confusing it with that

no im talking interior functions indicators lights etc etc but if you are wiring that up with mk1 stuff then no problem but it may be worth speaking to danlp as i know when he did his he had the choice of using some sort of emulator with the ecu or just plugging the uch in and hiding it behind...

the -10 on the end of the code means they are preset to 1mm on ngk's that is

if they aint broke dont fix them,, they dont wear as such but when they do start to wear it becomes obvious as it will make a droning noise and no, you dont need to change the rear discs to change rear bearings and front bearings are quite alot more involved than rears not really diy unless...

and, sometimes decoded ecus will still need the uch or an emulator to run so in that respect no you would need the lot