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ok j3ned i got your pm and you think your a big man, like I said ask Ben R for a reference about me and like I also said I work with them day in and day out have done for years so go play with yourself or something. You also cant spell knob correctly. white16valver no they are no different...

GSF = genuine renault in different packet. By that way of thinking then your saying renault is sh*te to but your happy to pay more for it. Not very bright are you.

cossie engine is nice and small an M3 lump assumign its a newish one is a 6 cylinder and not small. Cossie lump is pretty much the same size as the lump in there.

lower column UJ. Either get it replaced, welded or as I did for a customer shimmed it.

so you arsed about with the base throttle setting? And you wonder why it was dodgy? I mean really Brun.

lol go to th epolice anyway, get the wee prick banned and jobless. Also I woudl be demandign my money all back and the original fault fixed free of charge. You can sue the dealership btw, mention that and they will sort you out. The speeding is another matter and falls on the tech. Notes are...

lambda wont perate whilst open loop fueling is occuring (cold start enrichment), it runs rich in order to get the engine and cat up to temp as quick as possible. Unpluging the CTS makes the ecu think that its crazy cold, it then ignores the lack of signal from it and reverts to base map...

auto choke is the cts! I think I remember you saying you changed it when you had starting troubles? What to do is when you knwo its going to happen unplug it then drive the car, if the problem is worse/better then have a look at another cts. But also make sure the MAP sensor pipe is free from...

lol its meant to be on the speedo cable, its secured into the cable at the white plastic bit where the cable meets the clocks

its normal, obviously the rubber boot wasnt fitted right. They just slide in and out. Still a drama queen after all these years eh brun!

a file is better for that trick, on really bad ones a chisel first.

drive the car and they will clear up pretty quickly unless theres a braking problem. centres as said wire brush/wire wool/scotchbrite pad.

Had a megane 2l 16V in with the same issue, just did all 16 valves though, not piston damage aside from marked pistons, not cracked etc though. Heres a project thread I did on it http://www.retro-renault.com/viewtopic.php?t=3959http://www.retro-renault.com/viewtopic.php?t=3959

theres adjustment but not of the throw really, just the position of it. In nuetral it might turn the other wheen might not, it depends which is easier of the diff to dom over come the brake pads on the disc or spin the gearbox shafts. the warrenty should pass to you. where in scotland are you?

I assume ps in this case is passenger side wheel? With the car jacked up the other wheel should rotate the opposiute way or if in nuetral it will stay still but if its in gear then the engine will turn, or it should. If its refurbed is it not still under a warrenty? Sounds like there could...

Oil pressure sender is on the back of the engine on the cambelt side, purple wire goes to it. The connection can play up and be loose, the wire can also melt on the downpipe is no heatshield and its routed wrong. The sender itsdelf can clog with crappy old oil. The sender on the front is for...

youll probably find many many idiots have arsed around with the cable tension nuts on the handbrake rod. Strip em down like mat said, use a wires brush on the sliding surfaces. With the pads out pop the cable off the arm then activate the arm on the caliper with a screwdriver, if its stiff...

indeed, go to 195/50s and get toyo t1rs or t1ss. Thats what I run and despite what some claim the wet handlign is astoundign as is dry grip and they last well. Also they are quiet in the road noise stakes.

yes its a sohc, get the head done, best gain youll get and retain stock driveability.

its a round bar, see the round bar that goes from the left of the pic to the right and goes under the new track rod, thats the arb. http://www.renault-turbo.com/chris/Clio%20new%20track%20rod%2005.JPGhttp://www.renault-turbo.com/chris/Clio%20new%20track%20rod%2005.JPG

are you not bright enough to look? Why ask, it might or it might not, look ffs

all cars under 1.7 litres had enclosed bars.

the 1.2 will take a 16V/1.4 bar as they are same, bolt on. The link from gsf is the drop link, this is what attaches the ARB to the wishbone, you need 2 of these, you also need the inner bushes and the inner clamps, you can just get them from the car you take the arb from. Bear in mind the...

mk1 clios. All aside from the 1.2s came with a front anti roll bar, the roll bar is the same on a 1.4 - 16V, the williams is different (its a 19 round end bar type). The enclosed torsion bar set ups eg the 1.4s also came with a rear anti roll bar. The 1.2 again didnt. The open bar 4...

lol why worry about the cams, sounds like the lumps buggered! Only 100 quid tops for another

sounds like you were done to the tune of 2 grand at least! Mrs work mate just paid 6.5k for a 1.4 16V on an 05 plate with 4 miles on the clock from east lane paisley

if you have a bump and don;t want to go through insurance make them stump up at least 200 quid on the spot, otherwise police and insurance.

it will need jigged, they fold if you fart on them.

report them to VOSA, its illegal to perform an emmisions test without the oil temp being 60 degrees.

lol marky boy like I said on RSC tell him to piss off, hell f**k it up. as for measurements thats no use, the head casting are all different, what might be 1mm on one head could be 4mm on another! Got meddy clios head off the now, its a ph3 head and ren re-designed them. Its gash compared to...