Yeah I know all about the VOSA announcement - gave it to my MOT bloke and he said he's happy to pass it with the bias valve disconnected BUT
The rear brakes are showing 18% and 31% - and from what I've read they must be about 30% on each side to pass
So even if I take it in for a retest he's saying it will fail as it's his discretion as to whether the rear brakes are working fully
Does anyone know exactly what force the rear brakes on a CUP are supposed to apply??
I read a thread on here where someone had a problem with too much braking on one side and he took the bias valve off and put a brand new one on and it was ok after that
So I'm wondering if my bias valve is seized up?
I'm considering "cheating" and just cable tying the bias valve so it applies loads more braking force to the back - but I suspect he'll just fail it then for having a cable tie holding the bias valve open lol
The rear brakes are showing 18% and 31% - and from what I've read they must be about 30% on each side to pass
So even if I take it in for a retest he's saying it will fail as it's his discretion as to whether the rear brakes are working fully
Does anyone know exactly what force the rear brakes on a CUP are supposed to apply??
I read a thread on here where someone had a problem with too much braking on one side and he took the bias valve off and put a brand new one on and it was ok after that
So I'm wondering if my bias valve is seized up?
I'm considering "cheating" and just cable tying the bias valve so it applies loads more braking force to the back - but I suspect he'll just fail it then for having a cable tie holding the bias valve open lol