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2002 172 Won't Start - Not Battery!!!



  Porsche 996 C2, Clio 172
Hi.
The wife's 2002 172 Clio hasn't been driven since Friday. Was starting/running fine up until then but isn't used all that often.

Went to start it this morning - Process was like this:

Turn key and starter motor gives 7 or 8 turns and then stops - Not so much as a splutter from the engine.

Turn ignition off and try again - Same.

Got out of car locked up and unlocked again - Tried again - Same.

The number of times the starter motor turns before it stops feels like it's supposed to do it - Perhaps to stop you burning it out?

Anyway, if you turn the ignition on and leave it for more than 5 or so seconds then turn the key further forward to start the engine, the starter motor won't even turn - You have to turn the key right back to off, then turn it back to start to make the starter motor work.

Sound like something to do with the immobiliser on the face of it???? Any ideas??? Perhaps a sensor somewhere?

Heeeeeeeeeelpppppppppp, pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease! :S
 
  Megane dci 130
I know exaclty what your on about. The starter motor stops its self? Iv had a few people with the same problem. Sounds to me like an imobiliser problem. Does the imobiliser light go out?
 
  Porsche 996 C2, Clio 172
The red light beside the gearstick does go out when you unlock the car. Is that the one you mean?
Otherwise there's another small round in the cluster of warning lights in between the speedo and rev counter - Is that also an immobiliser light? That DOES stay on.
 

lemonnobby

ClioSport Club Member
Yea the red light for the immob is right in front of you if this doesnt go out its proberly a key or decoder ring issue
 
  Porsche 996 C2, Clio 172
Thanks for that. Can someone be a little more specific? Which part are we talking? Clean up or replacement? etc...

Thanks
 
  Megane dci 130
Either key or decoder ring as said above. Have you tried the spare key?

The ring is around the ignition barrel and reads the code on the key to dissarm the imobiliser.
 
  Porsche 996 C2, Clio 172
OK - Tried both keys. Still the same. Immobiliser light's on and still won't start. Bugger....
 
  Porsche 996 C2, Clio 172
Not sure how jump starting a car with a working battery and a faulty immobiliser is going to help!

@ Yellow Peril - I've heard this before....Where do I find the TDC sensor? What does it look like? What would I do with it? Clean contacts etc??? Cheers. Simon
 
  Porsche 996 C2, Clio 172
OK - Just as an update, when you unlock the car the round, red immobiliser light in between the speedo and rev counter continues to flash.
 
  Megane dci 130
Thats normal. Its an imobiliser fault. The tdc sensor will have nothing to do with it if the imobiliser light is on continually. The fuel pump wont prime when the imobiliser is armed.

If both keys wont work, its more than likely the decoder ring at fault.
 
  Porsche 996 C2, Clio 172
Sorry, meant to say when you turn the ignition on the immobiliser light continues to flash.

When you have tried to start the car, the light goes off. To get the starter motor to work again you HAVE to turn the key all the way back to off and then turn the ignition on again, at which point the immobiliser light starts to flash again.
 
  Megane dci 130
If the imobiliser light is flashing, its an imbobiliser problem.


It should come on then go out.
 

lemonnobby

ClioSport Club Member
Its a key head fault or the decoder ring issue small ring around the iginion barrel. You cant bump start it due to the light. One small thing i would point out is if the battery is low say around 200A and not 420A this can cause problems with the immob
 
  Fiesta ST3
my 54 plate 182 has done this twice in the last two days:mad:
turn the key and nothing the imobiliser light flashes constantly and nothing happens first time it did it took about 10 mins to start it.... and again today when i was leaving work it took about 3 key turns before it started!!
do you think its worth trying it with the spare key or should i try other thing like change the battery in the car??
would it make any diffrence??
 
  Fiesta ST3
got a multi meter but not sure how to use it properly checked the voltage on the battery and its below 12v when stood but when running its running at around 14v
but when the ignition is turned off the battery voltage drops quickly back to around the 11.8v to 12v mark??
 
got a multi meter but not sure how to use it properly checked the voltage on the battery and its below 12v when stood but when running its running at around 14v
but when the ignition is turned off the battery voltage drops quickly back to around the 11.8v to 12v mark??


Sounds a bit low, float wise a battery should be at 12.4 volts, less than 12 and you've got a problem. When engine is running and alt is working it will be at 14.4 volts, when engine is then turned off the battery will drop down to 12.4, over a period of time. I think you're battery is not so great, or maybe problem with the alt charging.
 

lemonnobby

ClioSport Club Member
You cant tell in Volts amps is what the capicty of the battery is in simple terms clios are fited with 420a battery is this goes to around 200A your in trouble
 
Definatly an immobiliser fault, probably just want the keys recoding, half an hour labour charge somewhere with a clip machine, if they fail to recode you will be looking at a new key.
 
  Porsche 996 C2, Clio 172
Just wanted to say a big thanks to those who helped and give a note of warning to anyone else panicking about their Clio 172 (and presumably others with an immobiliser) not starting.

Once again this is what mine WAS doing!:

1. Turn key to ignition-on - Immobiliser light in between speedo and rev counter stays on.

2. Turn key further to start engine - Starter motor turns - Engine won't start.

Before you go off spending money recoding keys, replacing TDC sensors and immobilisers etc try the simplest option first as suggested by a few on this thread:

Recharge battery!!!

It worked a treat!:)

Just connected the charger for 5 minutes on fast charge with the battery still in situ under the bonnet.
Then locked and unlocked the car again, turned the key and hey presto the light went out and the car started first time!

3 days I've been tearing my hair out and having to use the other car because I couldn't get the flaming thing going.

Going to leave it on slow charge overnight just to boost it up a bit.

So it was indeed the sudden cold weather that had sucked too many amps out of the battery and confused the immobiliser.

Thanks again so much to those who didn't suggest spending fortunes or dismantling the wife's car!

Just goes to show, my old Dad was right after all - The simplest solutions are often the best.....Bugger - I'll never hear the end of it...:(
 
  R27 #242
hey glad you got it fixed but for anyone with a similar problem i might be able to help, i had a similar problem a few weeks ago and it turns out it was just the earth connection was rubbish off the negative battery connection, so all i needed to do was replace that, just a thought :)
 
  Fiesta ST3
Before you go off spending money recoding keys, replacing TDC sensors and immobilisers etc try the simplest option first as suggested by a few on this thread:

Recharge battery!!!

It worked a treat!:)

i have gone for over kill and bought a new battery...
 


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