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Annoying Captive Nut on AST Coilovers



Martin.

Martin.

Fitted my wheels back on last night for the first time in ages. Annoyingly the head of the bolt holding the abs sensor bracket down fouls the wheel!

Surely the captive nut should be on the underside of the coilover link and not on top. Seems like an error to me.

Can anyone else with ASTs confirm?

Temporarily I've just held the V bracket on with a cable tie through the bolt hole, and another tie around the shock holding the cable.

Looks a bit too tatty for my OCD though. I'll have to unbolt the shock from the hub before the GEO is done and put the bolt and V bracket in from bottom up.

Just a bit annoying.

photo1_zpsc199379d.jpg


photo3_zps52140f56.jpg


photo2_zps9434488f.jpg


photo4_zpscaac6b1f.jpg
 
M

Mr R.

ClioSport Club Member
  A special one.
My bilsteins are the same with no problems but I have 20mm spacers.

How much camber are you running mate?

Oh are the bolts that hold the shock to hub tight?
 
Martin.

Martin.

Phase1sr said:
My bilsteins are the same with no problems but I have 20mm spacers.

How much camber are you running mate?

Oh are the bolts that hold the shock to hub tight?
Click to expand...

Really, how odd. Just seems silly to me.

Not set the camber yet. Will be taking it for a proper GEO setup soon. I don't think this would help it anyway to be honest.

I have no spacers yet so maybe this would help, just seems a bit too close for my liking.

Yeah shock hub bolts have been done to 180nm :)
 
S

scotiamr2t

ClioSport Club Member
  Mazda 2, Ph1 172
i had the same issue with my AST's, once i fitted the spacers the issue was gone.
 
M

Mr R.

ClioSport Club Member
  A special one.
The bolts are the wrong way around mate.

The head of the bolt should go in from front to back.

Also the nut isn't doing any form of locking as the end of the bolt isn't sticking though.

The nylon of the nut should be locking onto the thread's if the bolt mate.
 
Martin.

Martin.

Phase1sr said:
The bolts are the wrong way around mate.

The head of the bolt should go in from front to back.

Also the nut isn't doing any form of locking as the end of the bolt isn't sticking though.

The nylon of the nut should be locking onto the thread's if the bolt mate.
Click to expand...

Does it matter what way? That's the way they came out lol.

Not sure what I can do about the nut though!? Without taking the slotted washers out, but then I wouldn't be able to get any camber.

Arghhhhhhhhhhh
 
M

Mr R.

ClioSport Club Member
  A special one.
Yes it does, they where wrong in the 1st place then.

Can you not get the back of the nut machined down on a lathe or take them off and put a drop of loctite on the thread's.
 
Martin.

Martin.

Phase1sr said:
Yes it does, they where wrong in the 1st place then.

Can you not get the back of the nut machined down on a lathe or take them off and put a drop of loctite on the thread's.
Click to expand...

I'll switch them over this weekend then.

I can machine the nut down if need be yeah? Reckon that's what I need to do?

Not sure what other options I have LOL
 
Martin.

Martin.

Phase1sr said:
Yes it does, they where wrong in the 1st place then.

Can you not get the back of the nut machined down on a lathe or take them off and put a drop of loctite on the thread's.
Click to expand...

Have you not got these slotted washer things on your Billies then?

How do you get camber if not, or is it just a simple camber bolt.

I read that you shouldn't use a camber bolt with ASTs because of these.
 
M

Mr R.

ClioSport Club Member
  A special one.
We have had this conversation before, haven't we???

Camber is adjusted from the top mate. ;)
 
Martin.

Martin.

Phase1sr said:
We have had this conversation before, haven't we???

Camber is adjusted from the top mate. ;)
Click to expand...

I've got the memory of a goldfish. No joke.

Another thing I had done wrong in the past then! I put mine in the bottom. But I followed the Eibach fitting instructions, and Mike set up my camber for me without saying anything :S
 
S

scotiamr2t

ClioSport Club Member
  Mazda 2, Ph1 172
Martin. said:
What size spacers just out of interest please mate?
Click to expand...

i have 20mm spacers fitted to the front and it allows the wheel to clear the nut. With regards to the nut/bolt being the wrong way around i cant see how it will make any difference what way around it is, as long as its torqued up properly then it'll be fine.
 
Martin.

Martin.

Cheers chaps.

Will look to take off the slotted spacers for the bottom strutt anyway, which will make that bolt sit better in the nyloc.

For the tops, I think i'll just locktite it up. Mark it with torque slip and keep an eye on it.

I'll swap them around anyway, just because I'm OCD!

And when doing this, I'll mount the ABS bracket properly, bolt up from underneath into captive nut. (hub prevents access to do this atm)
 
sonny172cup

sonny172cup

I have checked my ASTs (II) and the captive nut sits UNDER the bracket, so not sure why yours is on the top. Someones is wrong....

In regards to the way the hub bolts go, the nut goes towards the rear, this is so when you use undo them (breaker bar), the tool does not interfere with the brake caliper (this is what was explained to me anyway).

So your looking at removing the bottom spacer collar so the bolt goes through the nylon nut? Hmmmm surly then, both holes would technically have potential movement, what I mean by this is, if you hit a bump at speed, then both bolts "could" slip. So what are the spacer/collar things in the top holes? I dont have any and mine or slotted for camber?

5d71d172-72fd-4ec8-b59e-0de9ba1c5bf7_zps3e212fc1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Martin.

Martin.

sonny172cup said:
I have checked my ASTs (II) and the captive nut sits UNDER the bracket, so not sure why yours is on the top. Someones is wrong....

In regards to the way the hub bolts go, the nut goes towards the rear, this is so when you use undo them (breaker bar), the tool does not interfere with the brake caliper (this is what was explained to me anyway).

So your looking at removing the bottom spacer collar so the bolt goes through the nylon nut? Hmmmm surly then, both holes would technically have potential movement, what I mean by this is, if you hit a bump at speed, then both bolts "could" slip. So what are the spacer/collar things in the top holes? I dont have any and mine or slotted for camber?

5d71d172-72fd-4ec8-b59e-0de9ba1c5bf7_zps3e212fc1.jpg
Click to expand...

You have the same slotted washer things on your bottom bolt hole in those pics.

For some reason I have these on both holes lol. It's for camber isn't it. Because the actual hole on the shock isn't circular its stretched. Then you fix these slots in the desired position to give camber??

No idea what's what to be honest. Everyone's seems to be different.

Regarding the captive nut. Looking at it logically mine is wrong. Yours is right. I've had to put the abs bracket and bolt underneath on mine to stop them scoring the wheels. So bolt pointing from bottom to top where the captive nut is.
 
Last edited:
sonny172cup

sonny172cup

No, im sure that bottom washer is so these can be interchangeable between the 182 struts that have the wider holes. Just unscrew the washer, turn it around and hey presto...they are def not for camber.
 
sonny172cup

sonny172cup

Top hole for camber, leave as it is and use oem bolts, bottom hole should have the cam washer in it, hole up for 172 cup, hole down for 182 (64mm struts?). Use oem bolts, but they will be at limit of the nylon nut as discussed.
 
Martin.

Martin.

sonny172cup said:
No, im sure that bottom washer is so these can be interchangeable between the 182 struts that have the wider holes. Just unscrew the washer, turn it around and hey presto...they are def not for camber.
Click to expand...

Oh I see. So the bottom slotted washers are to swap between the wider spacing of the 182 and 172 etc?

AST have very kindly posted me some longer bolts anyway :) When I mentioned it to them they weren't happy the bolt wasn't reaching the nyloc nut.
 
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