WRX
£637 to you! £12 membership on here :rasp:
FFS should of F5'd
Let's hope I'm quicker than you on track too lol.
£637 to you! £12 membership on here :rasp:
FFS should of F5'd
Look at you guys twisting my arm to become a member! its amazing what peer pressure does, lol
When is donington guys? I have bought some new camera gear and I'd love to be there taking photos on the last day
Sunday 20th October with 3 races.
I keep trying to persuade him maybe one day He knows he's always welcome to use my car but his car is equally upto racingIm shocked Porkie hasn't had a shot at racing yet.
Money Currently i'm living day to day off my wage and everything for the car is being spent from savings which will run out over winter so I just physically don't have the money to be able to race unfortunately. It seems a shame to have a competitive car sat there so thats why i'm thinking of renting it out.James, what made you decide not to race the car then? Surely once you've got passed some of these little issues it's just a case of racing and no more money spent on developing the car?
That would explain the issues then as I couldn't understand how the diff itself where it is bolted in could cause my issues. I presume the main shaft is the one that goes out of the main casing and has 5th gear bolted onto the end of it (The one with the pinion at the end)?Yes, it's 50mm, you'll need a deep socket and may need to grind the outside of the socket down to slip into the recess,
When building mine, it's not the diff that's the issue as its not sandwiched between the casings, it just sits it the bearing, just make sure to torque setting is right.
The issue is when changing the ratios as to achieve this the crown wheel and pinion need to be changed, only way to do this is to machine a new main shaft. This shaft is sandwiched between the casings with a bearing each end, too much load on these bearings will cause issues with heat and wear!
There wasn't a shim available from Renault thin enough to get my box right so after measuring the end float and taking the shim and my measurement to a very good engineer it was machined down with consideration to expansion of casing and mainshaft.
James, taking the box apart is the easy job. Wait till you put it back together. A few swear words will thrown around then along with all your tools! Lol
Any questions mate, give me a call or message
Oh. And I still haven't seen anyone explain pre load. Lol
I plan on buying a spare gearbox to nick the CWP out of to send to quaife - and I was planning on stripping it down for the same reason you have. I've never stripped a gearbox and I'm eager to see how they work
That sounds like 100% the problemYes the selectors were a pig! And yes I cut my hands twice on the gears lol
Thanks for the explanation Dave now I understand it! The main shaft was quite hard to turn so maybe that was the problem
Yes Sandy I agree but this is just a solution to get me out for Donington and then over winter an engine will be getting built when we have time for machining etcI'd strongly recommend going oversize to get the correct clearance, new pistons/rings in old bores with just a hone is a bodge, it will almost always end with early wear and short life expectancy.
I'm not too sure myself I guess its the high rpm and mine somehow saw 8200rpm at Oulton on the test dayWhat causes that then? The bores in my original 140k engine looked fine.
Yes Sandy I agree but this is just a solution to get me out for Donington and then over winter an engine will be getting built when we have time for machining etc
Obviously that block is no use for a quick hone so I need to find a very good block otherwise as you say its a bit pointless.
I'm not too sure myself I guess its the high rpm and mine somehow saw 8200rpm at Oulton on the test day