Bleeding brakes with 'loose' bleed screw

[Usr117063]

I have just ordered some high quality ones but will have to plumb my car tomorrow so cant wait for them. I have the brembos and i think air seeps in through the threads of the screws, I remember vaguely reading about coating some grease around the visible thread I wasnt sure, is that alright to do?

 

[Usr117063]

Also I use a pressure bleeder as well, but air bubbles will keep coming every so often no matter what

 

[JamesBryan]

Stick some PTFE plumbers tape around the threads of the bleed nipples that are loose.

Don't cover the small hole in the thread otherwise fluid won't bleed out.

 

[Brigsy]

You wont need to do anything with a pressure bleeder, pressure on, loosen then nip up. Air wont be able to seep in. A little bit of grease will be good to stop the nipple seizing in place.

 

[JamesBryan]

I like to pump the brake pedal at the same time when using my pressure bleeder.

I find it gives you a firmer pedal at the end when you're done.

 

[Usr117063]

Nice one guys, just about to do it. Will pump the pedal as well that sounds like a good trick. Ever since fitting the brembos ive had inconsistent pedal feel, that was with abs then I got rid of it and was still the same. Think the rear calipers could do with a refurb tbf but want to upgrade to the scenic conversion, dont want to do things twice. Running the bigger bore mc as well (4 port)

 

[Landyman]

You shouldn’t need to pump the pedal when using a pressure bleeding kit but it won’t do any harm.
The Sealey one is the best but it costs around £60.
The Gunson one works but it’s a bit hit and miss as it relies on air pressure in your spare wheel.

 

[JamesBryan]

You shouldn’t need to pump the pedal when using a pressure bleeding kit but it won’t do any harm.
The Sealey one is the best but it costs around £60.
The Gunson one works but it’s a bit hit and miss as it relies on air pressure in your spare wheel.

I've got the Laser version of the Sealey and for some reason I find it gets more air out and faster too by pumping the pedal at the same time. Not sure why tbh as you say it shouldn't need it.

 

[Landyman]

Well you are pressurising the system by pumping the pedal so probably hastening the fluid transit.

 

[Usr117063]

They came yesterday which was nice but its exactly the same fitting lol, but yeah there wasnt any air coming out anyway I use that gunson one which isnt bad, also did it the 1 man method as well as the mc needed bleeding. Dont really know what to think though, I absolutely hate the dead zone from the servo, you have resistance in the pedal but nothing happens then it jumps out on you, such a stupid design. Just feel the brakes are so inconsistent, different pressure applied each time does something a bit different.. Keep braking heavily cause I feel like it loses it bite, using oem pads as well, i swear the brembos were nice and smooth as well, have no clue now. Just want to bin the servo and get a pedal box, at first I changed to the 197 mc, then deleted the abs and did custom lines, now have just done another custom line setup but routes under the car to put seats in, such a waste

 

[Andy_con]

I always find a good lick stiffens a nipple up

 

[Landyman]

Could it be your hoses due for replacing?

 

[Usr117063]

Could it be your hoses due for replacing?

Randomly searched for sabelt seats on ebay the other day and found this for a bargain, really good condition and feels perfect, a lot more comfy than I thought and back is nice and upright. Will be getting the Jon Foz mounts soon for this!
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New brake routing, had it routed in the car through the boot but wanted to get the seats back in, decided to go back out the bulkhead and under the car along the same oem route using the orignal flexi line which then goes into a T on the beam.
Is that rust bad??!

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View attachment 1366891
Dont have the canon right now so crap lighting

Once the seats in ill be able to start getting the ergonomics down, the pedals are all over the shot, way to far to the right but have been getting them more level with spacers behind throttle and between servo. Am going to get a weld on quick release done and as want to keep hpas I wont be switching columns so will be set, also going to see about getting the 2 further column mounts fab'd so the wheel is more perpendicular, I just find my natural wrist position is a littler more upright. With that Id ideally like to have the stalks removed and a switch panel made up sort of just left the column maybe, just as teh space of the knees even with the column surrounds removed I still hit my knee sometimes and it f**king hurts lol. Might see if I could do a custom thing so I can have indicators close by or something

Completely new setup. Maybe its the mc which is pretty much new, who knows ?