#pads I mean ?you tried eBay?
And Euro car parts were about 8 or 9 quid for pads. With there discount offer.
That's what I fitted to mines.
#pads I mean ?you tried eBay?
And Euro car parts were about 8 or 9 quid for pads. With there discount offer.
That's what I fitted to mines.
#pads I mean ?
Yep, I have that saved on my ebay list. Have (As always) asked for confirmation with my registration number that they will fit
Purchased the rear brake discs fitted with bearing and ABS ring. they look the same. And pads.
Went to fit it today, and am guessing the caliper hasn't been removed since date of first registration 18 years ago
Just couldn't get the bottom bolt of the caliper holder off. 17mm and tried, and tried, and tapped with hammer, and ring spanner, and socket, standard spanner and WD40d and everything. Wont budge- almost seems welded in! Top one was difficult , but got that one out. Couldn't remove the pads either (Took the little bar thing out) although I think I could've with a bit more wellie, as one moved a couple millimetres
I haven't rounded off the bolt by any means, but a 17mm socket wont hold
ANY TIPS?
Any ideas, or is it take somewhere to get them to loosen them all off for a few quid?
Have put it all back together, and may not bother again if they seem to work OK. Although the discs are well past their sell by date, and pads down to 2-3 mm.
What you think?
Is it just the cradle your trying to remove?
Can't remember the imperial size just below 17mm an give it a tap on.Yes- trying to remove cradle to replace disc.
Didnt wanna take pads out, although they wobbled ok, in case I failed on removing cradle bolts, which I did
Socket seems ok, as it sorted the top one, but a bit of room although the lower bolt just beginning to round off, have filed, and left to soak in WD40
Impact gun sounds good, have tried big bar- that's what got the top off.
Can't remember the imperial size just below 17mm an give it a tap on.
Yes, I tried sifting though the sizes to find the imperial below 17mm
Found 16mm but that didnt fit
Thinking of popping into kwik fit or something, get them to crack them all off, then wheels back on, home, then do the job
?should've tried harde with a pair of grips I spose= just worried bout completely shredding the head
Reckon its never been undone in 100.000miles
Many ugga duggasPurchased the rear brake discs fitted with bearing and ABS ring. they look the same. And pads.
Went to fit it today, and am guessing the caliper hasn't been removed since date of first registration 18 years ago
Just couldn't get the bottom bolt of the caliper holder off. 17mm and tried, and tried, and tapped with hammer, and ring spanner, and socket, standard spanner and WD40d and everything. Wont budge- almost seems welded in! Top one was difficult , but got that one out. Couldn't remove the pads either (Took the little bar thing out) although I think I could've with a bit more wellie, as one moved a couple millimetres
I haven't rounded off the bolt by any means, but a 17mm socket wont hold
ANY TIPS?
Any ideas, or is it take somewhere to get them to loosen them all off for a few quid?
Have put it all back together, and may not bother again if they seem to work OK. Although the discs are well past their sell by date, and pads down to 2-3 mm.
What you think?
Be prepared to fork out for 4 new tyres, tracking, disks n pads.Yes, I tried sifting though the sizes to find the imperial below 17mm
Found 16mm but that didnt fit
Thinking of popping into kwik fit or something, get them to crack them all off, then wheels back on, home, then do the job
Be prepared to fork out for 4 new tyres, tracking, disks n pads.
All part of the service
I went in for a free allignment check after fitting my new shocks just so I could get a hunter printout, it was literally about 1 minute away from perfect but apparently it would scrub my tyres away in no time if I didn't pay the 50 quid for them to adjust it lolLOL. Yes, have been to kwikfit b4 for a "free" brake and exhaust check
They tried to tell me i needed loadsa stuff, including a full new exhaust system (Which the leak they couldnt find, was repaired when I replaced the cat converter with a sportscat). I still made sure I came outta there not spending a penny. You've just got to NOT listed to them
you could try removing whole caliper there are 2 bolts in the rear which allows you to remove whole caliper just a thought.?Gave up with trying to swap the discs over, couldn't get the lower bolt undone. Tried again after soaking with WD40 and thought I had cracked it off, but it just slipped. Either going to try a new socket (Hex) , or a professional, or have a go heating the bolt up. Not sure
So- ended up just replacing the pads which was a PITA in itself. Removing and replacing the little metal bar was difficult, and didnt realise the retaining clips didnt come as new in the box with the pads, so had to hunt around for the old ones- least I found them. Caliper was dead stiff.
However, the discs look pretty bad, almost like the surface is breaking away- although they are not used for much I reckon?
They look like fine to me. Are they touching when spinning disc?
you can remove full caliper by removing bolts at the back of caliper
They look like fine to me. Are they touching when spinning disc?
They didnt seem like they were touching the discs when I spun the wheel after fitting the new pads, but looking at the photo I am gonna double check. All I could hear were the pads touching the disc just a little bit. The brakes do loudly squeal when full pressure put on.
OK, Will have a look at the bolts on the back of the caliper bracket. I assume the 2 bolts we can see in the first photo are to remove caliper only, and the bolts you are talking about could be holding the bracket, that holds the caliper? That make sense
Didnt see those 2 bolts at the back, but will hava look see. Hope they aint seized too!!!
The 2 bolts you see in photo are to split caliper I.e to remove only cradle.
the 2 I'm speaking about are to remove whole caliper as 1 unit.
Gotcha
Did you coat edges and back of pads with brake grease or copper slip.
doubt it will make much difference with those disc's to be fair.
I didnt actually, don't know why as I usually do. Even had the copper grease in tool box next to me
I strongly recommend replacing those disc's.
Your telling me . LOL. But then again the fronts do %80 of the work, and they have new (1144) pads, and discs are good
I strongly recommend replacing those disc's.
I think it's your pads buffing away all the build up of rust etc.And I still reckon it could possibly be those clips that have scratched the, outer inch or so, discs to bits like that
Also, how are you struggling with them bolts? Get a breaker bar and stand on the c**t if you have to
If you don't have the clips in then your rear pads will fall out and you'll have an even bigger headache
the bar is there to stop the pad rattling when moving along uneven ground etc.To me, that bar inserted at the bottom of the pads seems to fix the pads in place with great force. Cant see 2 piddly pieces of wire holding them in place.
But hey, what do I know
wire/spring/clip just Incase you thought I ment the bottom bar ?the bar is there to stop the pad rattling when moving along uneven ground etc.
which is most of UK ?.
Bottom bar is to stop rattle, spring clips are there to retain the pads when pressing against the mating surface.
Why don't you remove the 18mm bolts holding the caliper to the rear beam instead?
let me know how you get on.Yes, think that's what William84 suggested- so will have a go at that at weekend
18mm eh- they will be big n chunky then
let me know how you get on.
remember an check if you have spacers for your bearings. Not sure why tho. I'm sure someone on here will explain why they are there and why sometimes you don't need them.
As on my old disc's I had no spacer everything was fine but changed them and needed spacers before I could fit new ones.