Clio 172 track car

[Greg.w]

Hey folks

Was looking at getting a 172 in April time but decide no I'll be sensible and get a 1.2 as it was to use as a second car(weekend car is a focus rs running 350+ bhp). So insured it in may and done the belts and clutch myself. Now less than a month later I've decided to sell it to a guy at work and get a 172 lmao. It's a great little runner and I get about 50mpg out of it so great on fuel but I'm after a fun track car and the rs is too precious to me to bin it on track :-/.

So basically I've got about £2k to get the car itself then I'll start the track build. I'm not going all out stripped etc etc as itll be my daily driver.

So basically I'm after some info on what things are a must have on a clio for some track abuse.

My basic plan is

-few days before the track days I'll remove the rear seats/spare wheel etc
-have a second set of tyres with r888s or similar and maybe a 3rd set for wet days
-bucket seat and harness for driver(minimum but I still want to get passengers in the back on normal days so was going to keep the passenger seat so they can get in. Is this ok or are 2 buckets needed?)
-half cage that's removable (is this wise? Just for safety)

Also can you use standard seat belt with a fixed bucket seat? Or only the harness?

Cheers

 

[st3ve]

You'll need harnesses if you want fixed buckets so you'd have no use of the back seats unless you was to put the standard seat and belt back in each time.

Half cage is pointless.

 

[mr.pink87]

You'll need harnesses if you want fixed buckets so you'd have no use of the back seats unless you was to put the standard seat and belt back in each time.

Half cage is pointless.

Oh really!?

 

[st3ve]

 

[MonkeyKnifeFight]

If you want to split the cost of having a full cage install you could start with having the rear fitted. Then get the front done when funds allow.

 

[Greg.w]

Funds aren't the problem im an engineer and have a mate who's offered to fabricate me a custom weld in cage but it's the fact I want to use the rear seats as well.

Are upgraded brakes a must? Brembos or something

 

[st3ve]

Funds aren't the problem im an engineer and have a mate who's offered to fabricate me a custom weld in cage but it's the fact I want to use the rear seats as well.

Are upgraded brakes a must? Brembos or something

Brembo HC discs and Ferodo DS2500's or similar is more than adequate.

 

[Greg.w]

Ah that's good then no fabricating brackets etc lol

What about suspension? Is it better to fit lowering springs? And is it best getting a cup model?

Cheers

 

[Adam G]

Greg, as it's your daily, I would do no more than Brembo HC discs, Ferodo DS2500 pads, 5.1 fluid and braided lines. Keep the interior as factory. It won't be the quickest out there but it's better travelling to and from track and it will be more than capable. That's all mine had at first and it was great. I've just put Eibach sportlines and a WARB on it to reduce body roll but it wasn't crying out for them, as I use mine to commute as well. No more is needed to enjoy it at all.

 

[Greg.w]

Thanks for the comment Adam. I'm just after safety really. That's why I want the driver in a bucket seat and harness. My girlfriend and probably dad and brother will have a shot of it as well round track and I don't want anything happening to them never mind me.

I thought maybe bucket, harness, half cage and some suspension tweeks will give me a quick little track car with scope for some breathing mods in the future

 

[mr.pink87]

Thanks for the comment Adam. I'm just after safety really. That's why I want the driver in a bucket seat and harness. My girlfriend and probably dad and brother will have a shot of it as well round track and I don't want anything happening to them never mind me.

I thought maybe bucket, harness, half cage and some suspension tweeks will give me a quick little track car with scope for some breathing mods in the future

Plans are spot on! Get good tyres aswell.

 

[Greg.w]

Yes plan on a set of r888s or similar. Maybe t1-r's to start with or something.

Am I better getting a set of 15s for track?
And am I best starting with a cup model?

Cheers

 

[Adam G]

15s tyres are generally cheaper and greater choice. If you can live without the extra comforts go for a Cup.

 

[Greg.w]

Yes I did think of the price of tyres tbh but I've read they drive a lot better on 15s as well.

Ill try my best to get a cup then.

Anything else needed for track? Strut braces or anything?

 

[Adam G]

Normal strut braces aren't very highly rated. Pure motorsport one is though but it all depends how far you want to go. Everything you put on for track purposes will more than likely sacrifice your daily comforts. Entirely your choice of course but for me I do probably 15 times more road miles than track ones so I sacrifice track mods to keep a comfortable car to get to work in.
Things that I have on mine I think are about as far as I want to take it but others would say I've just scratched the surface.

 

[Hoofy]

Get some 15s, much cheaper tyres. Then, get the damn thing on track and see what breaks. No point spending too much money on it up front, just enjoy it. Trust me, I know on this one.

 

[Greg.w]

I see what your saying Hoofy. And I agree. But if I have the money am I not better fitting atleast a bit of safety eg the bucket seat and harness. For a cheap set it'll be around £200 second hand.

 

[welshname]

If you want to be able to keep the rear seats then I'd get yourself some Recaro Trendlines from the Clio Trophy.

 

[Hoofy]

I see what your saying Hoofy. And I agree. But if I have the money am I not better fitting atleast a bit of safety eg the bucket seat and harness. For a cheap set it'll be around £200 second hand.

Not to start with in my opinion. You won't be going so quickly that you'll need that extra bit of safety, those 2 items offer no more protection in a crash that a regular belt really. You need a cage too to get the full safety benefit. (Half cage is definitely pointless, they're just for show really.) Tyres and maybe brakes will immediately make your car easier and safer to drive on track but aren't essential. It's gonna cost you 300 quid all in for a track day realistically, when you add on fuel and travel costs, put your money towards that first.

Just get one or 2 track days under your belt before you throw money at the car. The idea of a track day really is that you can spend very little and have a lot of fun in your car. You see so many people that spend hundreds and hundreds prepping there cars and then they take them on like 1 event per year! Pointless.

 

[Greg.w]

£300 for a track day. Hope not lol. My local track(knockhill) is about 25 miles away and I'm hoping I only use a tank maybe a tank and a half on the day. Last track day I went to watch was only £55 to go on for the full day. About 6-8 20 minute sessions iirc.

But Hoofy I think you talk sense. I'm going to do exactly what you've recommended. Maybe springs and a brake upgrade and that'll do for the first couple of track days. I may not even like it! But sure I will lol

 

[Hoofy]

Well.... if you live that close to a track, that does make a fair difference. I like to attribute the cost of fuel, a proportion of tyres and brakes as well as the cost of getting to and from the track too, because it soon adds up! We've bought some R888s at a small cost of 400 quid and realistically, we'll probably get the most of a track day and 2 or 3 races out of them, affectively costing us 100 quid per event....

Also, if you are planning on getting more serious about it you should really consider transporting your car to the track. The cost to get home when the car is broken can be astronomical. So yeh, just go have some fun!!

 

[Greg.w]

Is that how long tyres last? No long at all! Thought it would have been a lot longer tbh.

But yes I totally see where your coming from so £300 a track day sounds about right.

As for transportation I don't think I'll get that serious. If it breaks down I'll push it a mile outside the track and phone Greenflag lol

Cheers for the input.

On the hunt for a 172 cup with belts done. What sort I price am I looking at for 80k miles with belts done lately?

Cheers

 

[Hoofy]

Careful with the pushing it outside the track.... the breakdown man will know what you're up to!

A 172 cup in good condition with those miles and belts done recently will probably be nearer 2.5k tbh, might be lucky and get one under 2k.

 

[Greg.w]

There's one nearby ~10 miles away with 86k on it with a ktec exhaust and engine mounts for £1600. Good price?

 

[Greg.w]

Or am I just as well going for a normal 172(phase 2 but maybe phase 1) as there's a lot more about and there quite a bit cheaper.

Or is the cup really that much better? I've read it's slightly lighter, has a wider track(how much wider?) and is lower(how much lower?) but would a normal 172 with a set of springs/coilovers compare to a cup for a total beginner like myself?

Cheers

 

[Adam G]

Std 172 is more than up to it mate.

 

[Greg.w]

Really? That's Good to read. I'm not planning on breaking any lap records with it I just want a bit of fun. So a 172 cup or non cup will suffice.

Is the phase 1 any better/worse than a phase 2?

 

[st3ve]

Really? That's Good to read. I'm not planning on breaking any lap records with it I just want a bit of fun. So a 172 cup or non cup will suffice.

Is the phase 1 any better/worse than a phase 2?

From a track point of view a phase 1 is better.

 

[Greg.w]

Why is it better? What's different?

 

[st3ve]

Why is it better? What's different?

Cheaper, more raw, less weight, 15's as standard.

 

[Greg.w]

Ah I see. In my eyes the phase 2 is a nicer looking car. I know some will disagree but that's just me.

Plus as its a daily the ac and auto lights etc might be a very good idea. It'll still be a great track car.

What year do the phase 2s start to get cruise control?

Cheers

 

[Adam G]

Totally agree with your reasons mate!

 

[Greg.w]

Is yours a normal 172 Adam? How do you find it on track?

 

[Adam G]

More than adequate to put a huge grin on my face. Mods to mine are brakes, Eibach Sportlines and Whiteline ARB. Suits me down to the ground, absolute hoot on track and still takes me and 3 colleagues to work relatively comfortably.

 

[mark smith87]

I'll add my two pennerth. I have a Ph1 172 that I bought 3 and a half years ago. I've done 15 track days in it and the car now has 125,000 miles on it. I've tried various tyre combinations and have gone for Toyo R1-R's after using T1-R's for a few years. Brakes are Brembo HC front discs and Pagid rear discs with DS2500 pads all round and braided lines and Dot 5.1 fluid. I fitted K-Tec engine mountings last year when the belts were done. It's got a Powerflex dogbone bush on the bottom of the gearbox mounting. Induction is 172 airbox with a greenstuff cotton filter element. I've fitted an engine damper on the top of the engine that I bought off a guy on here a couple of years ago. The engine is standard but was recently remapped at RS Tuning and turns out 173.1 BHP at the flywheel and 154 lbs ft torque. The exhaust system is stainless steel cat back Scorpion.
The interior is complete but I usually take the back seats out for track days. I use the car for road use as well so prefer a bit of comfort. Its mighty quick on the road and on track as anyone who has been out driving with me will testify. I don't see the need to strip it out and take off the ABS and aircon. It doesn't slow me down at all.
The car is like a go kart and is reliable as any car I've ever had. I can jump in it any time and know its not going to let me down. I'm driving down to Gatwick on Tuesday night in it from Chester.
For grin factor there's nothing better. I'm 54 and it keeps me on my toes and I really love driving the Clio. I'm not doing any more mods to it. It's well sorted and ready to do whatever I need it to do. I'll be out on track in it at the Renaultsport day at Oulton Park in august if anyone wants to come and see how well it goes.

 

[Greg.w]

Thanks for the input mate. Looking forward to getting one.

Going for a 172 phase 2 I think. But if I can afford a 182 is it worth going for?

 

[Adam G]

No difference in performance really, extra cost on exhaust but extra comforts, if you can afford it might as well.