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Clio 182 Timing Belt



Hi All
well i thought i would just put a note on as i have just done the timing belt on my 182 clio

Jack vehicle and place on axle stand
Remove o/s/f wheel and cover
Remove undertray
Remove top engine cover , jack and support engine on a trolley jack and remove top engine mounting
Remove top alternator bracket, take top bolt out of the aux belt damper
Remove cam timing cover ( make sure engine fully jacked up)
Remove wiring , and disconnect fuel line to the fuel rail
Remove clip out of o/s/f top grille, and the two 13mm bolts for the bonnet landing panel, pack out landing panel with block of wood 5" thick
Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the aircon pipe to the front panel
Now i was doing a 72k service so i removed the inlet manifold and spark plugs.
Place long thing screwdriver down number 1 cylinder
Remove torx bolt out of the front of the engine block (need thin hands)
Place a 8mm drill bit in a turn engine over slowly so the screwdriver is at tdc and gently push the drill bit in to the crank and you will feel it lock
I order the cam lock plate (£49 from Renault) - remove the 2 blanking plugs from the back of the cylinder head, both slots should be level and the cam lock plate slide in and bolt up to lock up the camshafts
Now the crank x cams are locked undo to crank pulley bolt and remove the front pulley
Take all the bolts out of the lower timing cover, this wont come out untill you take off the aux pulleys
Slacken the cambelt tensioner, and slide off the belt should be slack now so you can remove it, take off the pulleys and slide the timing cover out
I cleaned this and got rid of all the grime and dirt slide cover back in
Refit the new pulleys in the timing belt kit (note 2 diff pulleys)

Fit the new cambelt, fit the new tensioner making sure the peg locates into the groove on the cylinder head, tension the belt
Fit the bottom pulley, and put the aux belt on at the same time
Make sure you tighten the bottom pulley up tight and free from oil

take out cam lock tool, and 8mm crank peg
rotate the engine by hand twice, and bring up to tdc the 8mm peg should lock into the crank and check the cams are lined up

if there not and the lock plate wont go in, using a C spanner ( vw tool)
slacken of the exhaust timing pulley nut, and the lower crank bolt

( the crank is still locked at tdc)

using a flat plate boths cams will rotate so the lock plate can be fitted
tighten the crankshaft pulley (FT)

Hold the ex cam pulley with the C spanner and tighten up to the correct torque, remove locking devices and rotate engine by hand twice again, bring up to tdc and lock of the crank, the lock plate just slide straight in
The timing is correct, re-check cambelt tension, and tension so the 2 marks on the tensioner line up, rotate engine again x re-check timing
crank should be locked and plate slides into the camshfats !

Hard Bit Done !!

I cleaned the manifold out with carb cleaner and left to dry
Refit new spark plugs, refit inlet manifold
fit new plugs in the back of the cylinder head (£10 from Reno)
Refit top timing cover and Alternator bracket
using a long 3/8 strong bar place in the aux belt tensioner and tension the belt fully
you will find the spring tensioner seems to be 2" too long to fit the bolt
using a big pair of water pump pliers, compress the spring ( very strong)
place a strong cable tie round the grips, and screw the torx bolt in, now it is a bit on the awkward side so its best if there is 2 people doing this.

Refit fuel pipe, and clip into timing cover, refit wiring that runs round the front of the engine.
Refit top timing cover and engine mounting
Refit aircon pipe, lower fron panel down and bolt up
Clip in top grille
Make sure all wiring plugs air vacumn pipes pluged in
refit all covers

Turn the key and job done
just saved your self £500 - £600 at the dealers

mine runs sweet as a nut, ticks over perfect and comes onto cam nicely at 5k

cost of parts £250 from Renault
 
im a technician so i did find it pretty easy, plus by doing it yourself at least you know its done properly, and you can check everything
 
  Black Gold Trophy
im a technician so i did find it pretty easy, plus by doing it yourself at least you know its done properly, and you can check everything

Same as, I would much rather do it myself and know it's timed up correctly etc. I'm a part time mechanic and I didn't have any problems doing it, aslong as you're careful and take your time it's very straight forward.
 
  Megane dci 130
Good write up there. Also iv learnt the way to get the bottom cover out without removing the pulleys and not breaking it. ;)
 
nice and steady, i had it stripped in 1 1/2 hrs, went and got the parts and took 3 hours to build up, just took my time to make sure it was done ok
 
  Blk/Gold 182 FF
wish i had the know how to do it myself!! my mate is a tech from reno and he said he'll do the cam and aux belt for 300, parts and labour, i'll prob watch though haha get some sort of idea on wats involved then
 
  182 trackday racer
I bought to tools and followed the F4R730 manual thats out on the net. Piece of cake if you are an experienced DIY.
 
Hello
I can see that this thread is rather old .... but maybe some of you are still online ..... few more grey hairs perhaps ;)
I see that you mention the genuine Renault tool to lock the two cams together (right side) but nothing about the other tool to lock the camshaft pulleys and yet you mention releasing the exhaust pulley using a C-spanner from VW .......
and btw ...... I will be changing the dephaser VVT pulley as well as the cam-belt kit so perhaps it's not exactly the same need
.... bottom line .... I need both tools ... yes or no ????
thanks
 
  phase 1 flamer 172
Right, having done cambelt, pulleys and dephaser on my 172, same as 182 I'm sure, I can confirm you need cam locking tools on gearbox end and pulley locking tools on cam belt end. No idea what the vw c spanner is for, used conventional spanners/sockets as far as I remember.
 
  330i. E30 Touring.
Hello
I can see that this thread is rather old .... but maybe some of you are still online ..... few more grey hairs perhaps :wink:
I see that you mention the genuine Renault tool to lock the two cams together (right side) but nothing about the other tool to lock the camshaft pulleys and yet you mention releasing the exhaust pulley using a C-spanner from VW .......
and btw ...... I will be changing the dephaser VVT pulley as well as the cam-belt kit so perhaps it's not exactly the same need
.... bottom line .... I need both tools ... yes or no ????
thanks

Yep, need both tools. Lock it all up, remove everything, then you can make sure it all goes back as required.

If you're taking the dephaser off, need a 14mm (iirc) allen key for it's oil seal cap..
 


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