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Clio Cup Racer Brake Ducts...fitted



  Radical SR3
Another quality purchase from Chris @ CM Composites. This one needed more 'tweaking' to suit the car...my car especially is a little awkward up front.

Took me a day all in to get the bumper right, ducts right and the deflectors on. Like the roof scoop, the FRP is well put together and stands up to my obsession with the torque wrench.

Should be able to test them out tomorrow at Abingdon :)

The kit
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My fog light surround (already cut for previous ducts)
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Cut for new ducts
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Ducts ready to fit
24vurk9.jpg


Duct fitted (two angles)
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mjonq0.jpg


Deflector plate in place
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Back of duct
2dqtycg.jpg
 
  Radical SR3
I'm not sure I could live with that gap top and bottom! I might have to fiberglass mine in and paint the bumper. OCD would go nuts lol

Because racecar for me. I could have done a neater job tbh...bit of a rush for a trackday tomorrow.

My bumper is lower/angled as there are no innards anymore to save weight so the ducts would clear a normal bumper. The plates are universal so need cutting to suit. I run 2118s with no spacers and neg 3.5 deg camber. I had to cut to clear the tyres on full lock.
 
  Cup In bits
The cup racers used to run ducting cable tied onto the deflector plate for more direct air when the wheels are turned Tony, the originals need some finessing for clearing the chassis leg as well

Chris's fit on james bumper was nice, but you chopped out too much no? Or didn't they slide in?
 
  Clio 172 + 172 cup
Has anybody ever run with the aluminium plates which fit close to the brake disks where you run an air pipe straight from the front bumper effectively in to the backing plate? I never really liked the idea of these ducts and deflector plates, although I know this is how they work on many cars.

MC
 
  Clio 172 + 172 cup
Yes, exactly those. With a length of flexible ducting fitted to the hole in the front spoiler. If nobody can come up with a reason why these won't work I might have a go. It seems like a much better solution.

MC
 
  Cup In bits
Its hard to leave the hose flexible enough to move with the steering without the tyre pinching it against the chassis leg.
 
  Ph1 daily & ph2 race
D these cars really need 200+ spending on ducting for brakes. Just taking inner arches out and no fogs plus decent fluid,discs and pads? I'm still in two minds if I should invest. My brakes don't boil at present
 
What cracks me up - and I mean NO offense to anyone who fits these - is that people will happily buy £160 DS2500's, and £200 brake cooling ducts and deflector plates. But if you suggest spending £600 on a 4pot setup everyone says it's overkill - even though your pads every year then cost £50 instead of £160 and brakee cooling is never an issues

My 4 pot setup with seperate bells and rotors NEVER overheats at all, even hammered around cadwell for 40mins at a time and never fades.
My standard setup suffered heat to the point where the brake fluid was boiling out the reservoir and the brakes completely died.
 
  Ph1 daily & ph2 race
Exactly what I've always thought, although wilwoods do flex a lot. I'm still trying different fluids and pads.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Exactly what I've always thought, although wilwoods do flex a lot. I'm still trying different fluids and pads.

Its not just wilwoods, pretty much all aftermarket (ie anything properly light) will do it, my Tarox 6 pots you can see flex as well, its quite scarey how much so in fact!
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
The cup racers used to run ducting cable tied onto the deflector plate for more direct air when the wheels are turned Tony, the originals need some finessing for clearing the chassis leg as well

Ideally you want it ducted right up to the centre of the disk, and then use a proper side disk that really draws the air though, thats what Im probably going to do on mine if I still get issues with the 300mm normal disks I am running currently.
 
  Radical SR3
Im here at Abingdon today and trust me, after a 15 minute session braking from high speeds my willys are smoking...so I say the more engineering and cooling the better.
 
  A shed
Though I've had 1155s smoking on track I have yet to suffer any fade or boiling with super blue fluid and pattern discs.

30min sessions at donington where I was only coming in as Shite rsr's had gone off and I was cooking.

Don't really see all this ducting, or 4 pot kits as necessary?
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
The cup racers used to run ducting cable tied onto the deflector plate for more direct air when the wheels are turned Tony, the originals need some finessing for clearing the chassis leg as well

Chris's fit on james bumper was nice, but you chopped out too much no? Or didn't they slide in?

I know, I used to race one. ;)
 
  Radical SR3
They made clio's back then in your youth? ;)

That was a good day :) Clio produced the magic again for me and I didn't see a car go past me all day (I was weaving all over the track at 15mph is probably why). It always makes me smile when you can pass an RS5, VXR8, GTR and Kleeman Merc on a couple of laps in a car that costs less than a wheel nut on those cars.

I agree with an earlier comment, the pads were smoking a lot but I experienced zero fade.
 
Car sounds great fella, looks like a good day.

Glad the brake vents worked well, the original cup racer ones had gaps at top and bottom too...

I fitted mine the other week, still need to fit the deflector plates. I saw a Clio yesterday where it had a second deflector plate fitted (a lot smaller) on the wishbone to direct air up from the ground, this is something I am going to look into fitting.
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
The same as we had for the 40min races, just fogs out. Brakes need to be hot to work anyway, standard calipers and EBC blue pads.
 

Jamie86

ClioSport Club Member
  RS175,595,205gti,172
What cracks me up - and I mean NO offense to anyone who fits these - is that people will happily buy £160 DS2500's, and £200 brake cooling ducts and deflector plates. But if you suggest spending £600 on a 4pot setup everyone says it's overkill - even though your pads every year then cost £50 instead of £160 and brakee cooling is never an issues.

Could be limitation within race series not forgetting mind :)
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
I've said many times elsewhere before, In Hungary we had to run ds2500 and standard calipers, worked fine for us.
 
  Ph1 daily & ph2 race
Track car set up on ph1 was fogs out, rc5+ pads, worth 5.1, Brembo hc discs and s**t pads on rear. The brakes never got hit after 30min race pace sessions at brands and lydden. Havnt used ph2 cup yet so... As tony said most 'decent pads' need heat to work so don't want no heat in brakes, ill deal with it if they get hot rather than before on the race car. Rc6, hc discs, rbf600 fogs out and no liners
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
Track car set up on ph1 was fogs out, rc5+ pads, worth 5.1, Brembo hc discs and s**t pads on rear. The brakes never got hit after 30min race pace sessions at brands and lydden. Havnt used ph2 cup yet so... As tony said most 'decent pads' need heat to work so don't want no heat in brakes, ill deal with it if they get hot rather than before on the race car. Rc6, hc discs, rbf600 fogs out and no liners


Thank you.
 
  All sorts
Why would Renault sport fit them in the first place if they were a complete waste of time!!

As for the comments about why bother fitting them just leave a hole, I think this comes down to personal taste on how they want there car to look with the added benefit of front brake cooling.
 
Why would Renault sport fit them in the first place if they were a complete waste of time!!

As for the comments about why bother fitting them just leave a hole, I think this comes down to personal taste on how they want there car to look with the added benefit of front brake cooling.

I wouldn't even bother with that mate lol

You can go down the "why did the cup racers use them" route all you want but it's smacking your head against a brick wall.

IMO there's a big difference between getting pads hot and getting your calipers, wheels, tyres and fluid hot too. Yes pads need to be hot to work but they don't need to be so hot that paint is melting off the calipers.
All discs also have an operating temperature range - and if you exceed that you're also reducing the effectiveness of the brakes.

Every F1 car, btcc car, cup car, uses brake ducting to manage the disc temperatures. But then they mostly all don't use standard calipers either ;)
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
I agree with Phil on the heat thing, I dont care how much ducting you have you are never going to struggle to get any of the pads mentioned in this thread upto temperature, and even the pads which do require a bit of heat in them, work better with a bit of heat than with a lot of heat if they are being used on metal disks as metal disks will have a lower co-efficient of friction at higher temps irrelevant of what pad is used.
Its only when you have carbon disks thats its useful to have them mega mega hot.
 


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