constant electrical issues 182 trackcar. help

[K_McDermott]

hi guys, okay had major issues all caused by myself taking the car to a cowboy for itbs to be wired in..

anyway i digress..

since then i have managed 2 half trackdays.
the car ran extremely fuelly on both days and wouldnt start immediately after running. would just crank and then back fire, At cadwell park when i went round then bends then upto the mountain the car cut out twice on the mountain which was extremely dodgy.

got a couple of trackdays im hoping to do coming up so ive been trying allsorts..

now recently this year the cars had the following to try and get it right, but atm its even worse than its ever been -

172 cup alternator setup with 172 cup reconditioned alternator
enduroline small lightweight battery relocated in car
second hand loom (old one was butchered for piggyback ecu)
crankshaft sensor
coolant temp sensor
inlet air temp sensor

just this week i have changed -
FUEL PUMP RELAY
3 FUSES IN ENGINE BAY FUSE BOX - GREEN 30 AMP, BLUE 15 AMP & BEIGE 5 AMP (see pic)
Also changed 2 out of 3 small brown 20amp relays (one for immobiliser and one for starter)

now since doing all these new relays etc the car wont start as its immobilised and constantly seems like its no power (lights dimming) see vid below...
almost seems like its got a major drain on the battery but its got 14v to the bulkhead connection, starter motor, alternator and all the relays when the charger is on the battery.

https://youtube.com/shorts/wR-MO_pgxUU?feature=share



does any one have any ideas on the problem? or where to look, really pulling my hair out now and its looking like the car is gunna have to get stripped for parts.

 

[K_McDermott]

when the car did run (literally the other night)
this is what was happening, soon as i touched the relays. makes me wonder if theres a knackered wire or terminal? but could this cause a power drain as its dimming all the lights and sapping power out the battery.

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[mattchurton]

when the car did run (literally the other night)
this is what was happening, soon as i touched the relays. makes me wonder if theres a knackered wire or terminal? but could this cause a power drain as its dimming all the lights and sapping power out the battery.

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The solid Immob light on, combined with a 3 second crank is saying that it recognises the key in the UCH, but there is a comms fault between the ECU and UCH.

Looking at your post above, suggests you may have a broken/corroded wire or terminal in that area. I think the white plug can be a known one in that area - may be worth opening it up and having a look at the pins for any signs of corrosion.

 

[K_McDermott]

The solid Immob light on, combined with a 3 second crank is saying that it recognises the key in the UCH, but there is a comms fault between the ECU and UCH.

Looking at your post above, suggests you may have a broken/corroded wire or terminal in that area. I think the white plug can be a known one in that area - may be worth opening it up and having a look at the pins for any signs of corrosion.

99% Sure its gunna be a broken wire as its extremely intermittent. just not sure why its not holding any charge at all.

did some digging, stripped back some tape from the white plug to the strut tower as it didnt look original tape.
found this wire bodged.. A3 In the plug if anyones any ideas? its been majorly bodged by the ''professional'' who attempted to fit the itbs.
just not sure why hes messed with this wire thats not even part of the engine loom?

white plug had some sort of liquid, can only assume contact cleaner so will dry out with an airline and check all pins are clean,

pics attached.

 

[K_McDermott]

fettled round with the fuses the other night, changed the green 30 amp again, this time no matter how much i moved the relays the car still ran fine
something seriously irritating with this..

vid attached..

 

[nicrizz]

I feel your pain, I have exactly the same extremely intermittent issue.

As per this: https://cliotrophy.co.uk/threads/help-non-starter-after-gearbox-change.55672/
I have just swapped round the three brown relays under the bonnet and suddenly things are behaving.
However I’m not sure for how long just yet…. I shall report back

 

[nicrizz]

Balls, scrap that.
The problem has reappeared.
I confidently put the relays back thinking “I’ll work out which one is at fault” and the gremlin resurfaced.
Reading that thread again I don’t think it’s anything to do with the 3 relays I mentioned?

 

[K_McDermott]

Balls, scrap that.
The problem has reappeared.
I confidently put the relays back thinking “I’ll work out which one is at fault” and the gremlin resurfaced.
Reading that thread again I don’t think it’s anything to do with the 3 relays I mentioned?

its only actually 2 of the small brown relays that could cause this issue, middles ones for the starter and the right one is for the immobiliser
the one on the left is just fan low speed. see pic -

anyway lost my rag with it last night and ive got 90% of the loom out to check / replace.
will keep this updated for my own sanity/ help anyone searching with same issue.

 

[nicrizz]

Thanks for that information.

How are you getting on fixing your car?

I ‘believe’ that I have solved mine, it was a poor ground connection from the battery to the body (at the terminal end of it matters).

I replaced it and the immobiliser light starting operating correctly. It has started each and every time since, no failing to turn over after a couple of seconds, or symptoms of a flat battery.
It has been ok for the past week.


I can’t explain it, but I hope this maybe of use to someone in the future.

 

[K_McDermott]

believe it or not i replaced the full engine loom in the end with the relay boards and new relays,
the car immobilised itself by unpairing with the key, touch wood it seems fine, got croft next month so suppose ill find out if the car lets me finish a full trackday without breaking 🤞