Think of the positives! It’s all good content for us saddo’s to read! Thank for sharing
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Covid182 the longest clutch change ever
- Thread starter Robbie Corbett
- Start date
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
Yes it is a bit, hopefully just forward steps for a while now, although if I don't use it, it might not break anymore?
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
Yes I seem to remember there was too.
They look easy enough to add, I'd just put a little one in the return pipe as it comes out the pump, I think there's enough room tho have a small rad in front of the condenser. Or I've seen some cars run a larger ali finned reservoir.
01RS,03 EP3,99 Evo 6
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Where have you mounted it? Any pictures?
Clio 172
Those fleshlight thingys are fantastic!
Great work.
Great work.
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
Thanks very much - whats a fleshlight?
Dont pretend you dont know
Krarl
ClioSport Club Member
"wHaTs A fLeShLiGhT"
As if 😂😂
It’s a torch made by Milwaukee
Clio 172
google videos 👍🏻🤣
dann2707
ClioSport Club Member
I asked my dad what one was and he said it's where he wished I went instead of inside my mum 
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
I was expecting you to just post a funny pic tbf
Clio 172
I was on the works WiFi… didn’t wanna risk it!I was expecting you to just post a funny pic tbf
Beauvais Motorsport
ClioSport Club Member
@Touring_Rob Remembered you had a problem with the hubs and deox c, as too much material was removed from the bearing surface.
Just wanted to check how long you dunked them in for with the bearings in place.
And what about the caliper mounting and suspension faces? Did you just paint them and sand them back after?
Just wanted to check how long you dunked them in for with the bearings in place.
And what about the caliper mounting and suspension faces? Did you just paint them and sand them back after?
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
Hi mate,
First time round I left them in for a week (mistake). Second time round I left them in for 24hrs, initially the mix was nice and warm. No issues.
I did not cover any caliper mounting faces etc. and could see no visible issues second time round - although Deox-C will go for iron, it didn't seem to touch clean faces with no corrosion in the 24 Hr period so I wouldn't be too worried. The bearing faces are worth protecting either with grease or by leaving the bearings in place.
Good luck!
Beauvais Motorsport
ClioSport Club Member
Thanks! I was getting worried thinking I should just leave them in for 5 hours or so but clearly It will be alright!
Bearing outer race still in as are the clips. They are basically one with the upright. Im thinking the deox will help loosen things a bit with the clip so I dont have to make a mess with the angle grinder, then Ill paint them for new bearing and hub!
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
So I left them in for around 4 hours, then removed them, rinsed off and hit them with a wire wheel on a drill. If you can get all the rust scabs and loose shale off, then put them back into the deox you will get a much better result... first time round I just left them in for so long hoping all the rust would go, where as if you help it along mechanically you get the same result but with less time in the bucket.
I got nearly identical results with Citric acid btw, which is 1/10 of the price.
If I had more time I would have thought about getting them zinc plated or something but as it was I needed them back on the car!
Beauvais Motorsport
ClioSport Club Member
Will do as you did, thanks mate!
I have some deox c laying around already, also some primer but no actual paint yet. Its so cold in the unit, might need some brush on stuff.
I have some deox c laying around already, also some primer but no actual paint yet. Its so cold in the unit, might need some brush on stuff.
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
No worries dude, good luck. Need to get yourself a sand blasting cab!
Beauvais Motorsport
ClioSport Club Member
Yes, 'need', if it makes my life easier then I want It which can be a problem considering the ££ for some stuff!
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
Where were we..... Oh yea, it fucked up.
So, after a couple of k miles my gearbox started clicking (best way I can describe it). I believe that some time ago I did a silly. When changing a driveshaft the snap ring snagged, I lowered the car down thinking it would seat (it didn't), then with the driveshaft basically hard up against the diff I used a large club hammer to smash the s**t out the shaft to try and get the CV joint on far enough.
I later discovered that the snap ring had come out of the groove and jammed everything up - I still have no clue why I used a hammer, I think I was just royally pissed with the car.
Fast forward a while and I think my caveman hammering has fucked either the diff, or the diff bearings, after the incident I replaced the driveshaft with a genuine Renault one (ouch). So not wanting the gearbox to be damaged, and feeling very annoyed I parked the car up for 6months - didn't even look at the c**t.
Having booked on for some track time as CSF I figured it was time to finally get back into the car:
This all feels quite familiar, in a - I've slit my wrists once already and it didn't work kind of a way
Inlet off
Summarises my overall mood at this point pretty well:
Box oil came out looking lovely which is actually very good news:
However with hand stuck in passenger tripod I can certainly feel some odd clicking.... hmmm.
So, after a couple of k miles my gearbox started clicking (best way I can describe it). I believe that some time ago I did a silly. When changing a driveshaft the snap ring snagged, I lowered the car down thinking it would seat (it didn't), then with the driveshaft basically hard up against the diff I used a large club hammer to smash the s**t out the shaft to try and get the CV joint on far enough.
I later discovered that the snap ring had come out of the groove and jammed everything up - I still have no clue why I used a hammer, I think I was just royally pissed with the car.
Fast forward a while and I think my caveman hammering has fucked either the diff, or the diff bearings, after the incident I replaced the driveshaft with a genuine Renault one (ouch). So not wanting the gearbox to be damaged, and feeling very annoyed I parked the car up for 6months - didn't even look at the c**t.
Having booked on for some track time as CSF I figured it was time to finally get back into the car:
This all feels quite familiar, in a - I've slit my wrists once already and it didn't work kind of a way
Inlet off
Summarises my overall mood at this point pretty well:
Box oil came out looking lovely which is actually very good news:
However with hand stuck in passenger tripod I can certainly feel some odd clicking.... hmmm.
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
For the love of god, can someone explain why every CV boot I buy - even the expensive ones seem to be made of dog s**t?
New shaft, proper Renault one - done already, maybe a year old... 2000 miles max:
Seeing as how my sump seems to be leaking badly and I have an engine crane I've decided to just pull engine and box out from the top. This time round I'll likely reseal rocker cover gasket and change main crank shaft seal while I'm there as I can't be arsed to take the engine out again (ever) and doing belts with lump out it so much easier -although cam belt is no where near due I'll give it a new one and retime it all however water pump, dephaser etc are all still basically brand spankers.
Very slightly thinking of doing group N timing this time round but don't think I'll have the time to book in for a map.
Got very bored doing it today and my dad came round to drink coffee and talk so engine didn't pop out as anticipated but its ready. All coolant pipes off, AC compressor is off and tied up, just need to drain steering fluid (as the lines loop over the box) and drain engine oil then I will be yanked out.
(same mug again, same feeling)
The box on the whole feels fine, other than clicking, its 100% final drive as the frequency doesn't change with gears only speed. When I had the box built I was in two minds about sending it off or just getting on with it... first time round I was low on time and tools, the box needs a few special tools it seems, however most can be improvised. There is one sod of a gear under the metal cover which is very close to the casing and none of my pullers looks like it will work at all.
Super lucky to stumble across this on German eBay:
Its the Volvo special tool (some Volvos also used a JC5) for removing this nugget on the left:
I don't have the tool to remove the larger 5th gear however I am fairly confident a small puller will work. My dad has quite a collection so I'll be raiding that. I'm not really looking forward to it as I'll need to source at least one bearing and likely some shims - the others were changed (apparently) together the syncros and third gear when it was rebuilt by Agency Transmissions a while back - syncros still feel fine so I'm not expecting to have to change anything overly expensive but I guess we will see!!!
Need to dig out the JC5 rebuild manual I have downloaded (somewhere) when I last read it I believe it lists one bearing which must always be changed when the casing is split and also had part numbers for shims - hoping to not have to buy a complete shim set, if I'm lucky I won't need to re shim anything.
Thats where I am right now. Other jobs include getting some V bands welded to the cat and a flexi on the manifold (like @Louis) and hopefully having enough time left over before CSF to get a dent man to go to town on the car.
Clios are just fantastic
New shaft, proper Renault one - done already, maybe a year old... 2000 miles max:
Seeing as how my sump seems to be leaking badly and I have an engine crane I've decided to just pull engine and box out from the top. This time round I'll likely reseal rocker cover gasket and change main crank shaft seal while I'm there as I can't be arsed to take the engine out again (ever) and doing belts with lump out it so much easier -although cam belt is no where near due I'll give it a new one and retime it all however water pump, dephaser etc are all still basically brand spankers.
Very slightly thinking of doing group N timing this time round but don't think I'll have the time to book in for a map.
Got very bored doing it today and my dad came round to drink coffee and talk so engine didn't pop out as anticipated but its ready. All coolant pipes off, AC compressor is off and tied up, just need to drain steering fluid (as the lines loop over the box) and drain engine oil then I will be yanked out.
(same mug again, same feeling)
The box on the whole feels fine, other than clicking, its 100% final drive as the frequency doesn't change with gears only speed. When I had the box built I was in two minds about sending it off or just getting on with it... first time round I was low on time and tools, the box needs a few special tools it seems, however most can be improvised. There is one sod of a gear under the metal cover which is very close to the casing and none of my pullers looks like it will work at all.
Super lucky to stumble across this on German eBay:
Its the Volvo special tool (some Volvos also used a JC5) for removing this nugget on the left:
I don't have the tool to remove the larger 5th gear however I am fairly confident a small puller will work. My dad has quite a collection so I'll be raiding that. I'm not really looking forward to it as I'll need to source at least one bearing and likely some shims - the others were changed (apparently) together the syncros and third gear when it was rebuilt by Agency Transmissions a while back - syncros still feel fine so I'm not expecting to have to change anything overly expensive but I guess we will see!!!
Need to dig out the JC5 rebuild manual I have downloaded (somewhere) when I last read it I believe it lists one bearing which must always be changed when the casing is split and also had part numbers for shims - hoping to not have to buy a complete shim set, if I'm lucky I won't need to re shim anything.
Thats where I am right now. Other jobs include getting some V bands welded to the cat and a flexi on the manifold (like @Louis) and hopefully having enough time left over before CSF to get a dent man to go to town on the car.
Clios are just fantastic
Seriously mate, buy the jr driveshaft boots and cut off the outside largest rib. Use a hose clamp front and back and you'll have zero issues!
Good idea on the banding, but I'd try integrate the flexi into decat/cat pipe. You can then remove the single part and drive it to an exhaust shop rather than having to take the whole car.
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
I'm pretty certain you've told me about the JR boots before - I'll get it done!
Also, solid idea on the flexi, so flexi on cat, I forget are you V band on manifold? So V band on flexi to manifold? I'm pretty sure you are.
Yeah, so vband on manifold then decat is vband, flexi, 2.5" straight pipe as sleeved.
I run no flexi at all for MOT time and it's fine.
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
Cheers Louis xxx
Beauvais Motorsport
ClioSport Club Member
Whats going on with it Rob? Is it still brokeded? Give me a shout if you want a hand next weekend or some time after that..
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
Just seeing if you have me on your ignore list
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