Crushed jacking point prevention.

[Matt Cup]

My dad being a bit of a clever clogs came up with a novel idea of saving my car from having its jacking points crushed, as we all well know that they are made of chocolate. We used a bit of 1" box section and a small 3/5mm (can't remember?) plate for additional strength. All parts were cu-rusted and hammerited (sp).

May not be the most pretty well polished thing but now the jacking points are now pretty solid and it cost feck all

Anyway here's some pics of how it fits.

 

[Detail Chris]

Nice idea, alternatively I use the hockey puck pad! You cut the middle section out of a puck and it makes a universal pad for most cars, limits damage. I use it on all my customers cars where I can, far better than a piece of wood etc.
heres a link to a picture I shamelessly stole! cut out with whatever you've got, a saw for initial cut then a wood chisel, dremmel or whatever.
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=185071

Chris
​DetailMe

 

[Matt Cup]

I use a hockey puck too Without the cut out though. This helps increase the surface area it's jacking up.

 

[st3ve]

Never had this problem on mine, I've always been careful though I guess.

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

The simplest ideas are often the best.

That's a good 9.5/10 for me. Well done Dad.

However, jacking off something more solid on the chassis/suspension is a far better idea if you haven't got the fabrication skills of a Dad.

:evil:

 

[Darren S]

I don't know if they are common or not, but one tyre place I went to, had heavy-duty rubber bags that were inflated by a compressor. Slid underneath the jacking point like a small pillow and it raised the car high enough to change the wheel in about 10secs.

Great idea I thought - but not exactly safe if the bag went POP!

D.

 

[JaredHasNoBrain]

I don't know if they are common or not, but one tyre place I went to, had heavy-duty rubber bags that were inflated by a compressor. Slid underneath the jacking point like a small pillow and it raised the car high enough to change the wheel in about 10secs.

Great idea I thought - but not exactly safe if the bag went POP!

D.

There's ones like that where instead of a compresser it just goes into the exhaust to the exhaust gasses blow the baloon up

 

[leeds_182]

Too late for mine, they're screw balled.

 

[Matt Cup]

Cheers Giraffe. Dads ftw! I would like to use a more solid place as a jacking point but having "lowz" has stopped that.

Oh and Sod relying on an airbag to jack my car up!

Too late for mine, they're screw balled.

Shame... Can they not be bent back into position?

 

[Space Cadet]

What a good idea and well done Dad! Mine are fcuked as well, might think about doing something similar.

 

[leeds_182]

Cheers Giraffe. Dads ftw! I would like to use a more solid place as a jacking point but having "lowz" has stopped that.

Oh and Sod relying on an airbag to jack my car up!



Shame... Can they not be bent back into position?

I think so, I don't know who had been jacking it up before but they made a right mess.

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

If it's that low, the sill will be your lowest point of entry under there anyway !? :-S

Coilies + Rear beam = 2 or 3 wheels off the ground

 

[-Sparky-]

Mine are shagged too, I may try sonething similar to save mine

 

[Detail Chris]

Yeah when I used to work on the XJ220's we had to use special airbags to safely lift them. Think the bags were like £20k iirc!!

chris

 

[plymcl172]

All 4 of mine are crushed! One came up on the MOT aswell !

 

[Chapster5]

I remember on my Clio I crushed the drivers side front jacking point somehow :/.

 

[chris blue]

I know this thread is yonks old, but can anyone tell me that if you bolt in the box section, how is the weight distributed when jacking up?

Is it just contained to the box section which is bolted to the original jacking point which would then take the weight, or does it transfer upward pushing the box section into the underside ?

 

[Brigsy]

Better off using the box section a few inches behind the sill with a decent low profile jack

 

[R3k1355]

or a jack pad adaptor

 

[Matt Cup]

I know this thread is yonks old, but can anyone tell me that if you bolt in the box section, how is the weight distributed when jacking up?

Is it just contained to the box section which is bolted to the original jacking point which would then take the weight, or does it transfer upward pushing the box section into the underside ?

Jeez, It's been a long time since I have had this car, would love to know where it ended up.

Anyway.... From what I can remember the box section rests against the inner sill, it was exactly the right dimensions so it didn't put any strain on the body work, it just spread the load more effectively. The sandwich plate put on the front side which was cut to fit in the aperture also gave it a bit more strength.

There are other methods which people have mentioned above, but this worked for me.

 

[Superwoman90]

Just ordered one off Ebay ?

 

[chris blue]

Yep- I do use a trolley jack for the inner chassis box section, when I am wheeling off.
and yes, have one of those hockey pucks with a slice down the middle- but I can advise that even with that, it still buckles the jack point over time (Ive used one about 2 years)

My main concern is the MOT in a couple weeks, as it was mentioned as an advisory on last years

I will try and have a chat with the Tester to say that I don't use the jack points, and have ordered some mild steel strips, but it looks awkward to fit

My thought was to have a strip of steel either side of the existing lip where the reininforced section is, then bolt them together

But there doesn't seem to be a lot of lip that's good enough to drill through

Thats why I liked the look of the OP, but then cant see how the weight is distributed. It looks like it doesn't sit near the chassis but straight onto the floor pan? You say it rests on the inner sill- is that strong enough

No worries, I will have a fiddle and find a way

Just had a good look, and its my nearside front that's a nightmare, the rears and offside front aren't to bad, but still a bit mangled

Wonder if you can get a small 3mm steel bit of box section, shaped like a U that could sit over the lip, and be bolted straight thru

 

[Don]

Ordered one of what?

Just ordered one off Ebay ?

Sorry, you never said...

 

[Brigsy]

Crushed jacking point should be ok for mot @chris blue it will only fail if rusty and holed.

 

[Superwoman90]

Ordered one of what?
Sorry, you never said...

Trolley jack rubber pad, they come already slotted.

 

[Darren S]

Just ordered one off Ebay ?

Which rubber pad did you go for in the end?

 

[Superwoman90]

One on eBay

 

[Superwoman90]

Which rubber pad did you go for in the end?

Just a few quid on eBay. It hasn't arrived yet but looked ok.

 

[chris blue]

Spent about 4 hours today, cutting 2 strips 3mm mild steel, about a foot long

Then drilled 5 x 7/32 holes in it

G clamped them up to my worst bent up sill (Front nearside) and then drilled holes though OEM jacking point ridge

Hi tensile steel bolts, with washers either side and Nylock nuts, and Bobs yer uncle

Looks OK, not sure whether to slap underseal over? and trolley jack lifts vehicle without a mark left on the steel plates

A lot easier to write this up than do the job, but nothing technical, just faffing around with drill bits and bolts and clamps

Will see what MOT Tester says, then another 3 to go

Photos to follow and a how if anyone expresses a keen interest