Detailing Chat & Questions Thread

[TheEvilGiraffe]

Figured we might as well combine all the silly questions into one thread.



I'll start !

Colleagues car is a 58-ish plate Nissan Qashqai thing in dark grey. He's been asking me about it as he knows I dabble in DAing etc. He's managed to swipe some hedges and has some scratches (really light brushing) down the side and asked me to give it the full works when I can.

He then informed me it has Diamond Brite or whatever that "lifetime" car protection thing is, and asked if that was a problem. I laughed and told him that there's a very good chance that it's long since gone. He washes the car most weekends with what I presume is Halfords finest yellow sponge and turtlejuice shampoo. There's no beading or shine to the car any more.

Am I right to assume that this magical lifetime paintwork protection was probably blown off on the test drive and I can carry on as normal when attacking the paint..?!

Thanks

 

[Harpham]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

I also have a stupid question...

When detailing, are you able to apply a couple layers of sealant, then add a couple layers of wax on top of that straight away? So that once the wax has worn off, the car is still protected?!
Any implications from doing this?

Reason I ask is that I want to do this on the 'flower, as wax gives a much better look, but lasts about 2 seconds lol.

 

[Gally]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

Figured we might as well combine all the silly questions into one thread.



I'll start !

Colleagues car is a 58-ish plate Nissan Qashqai thing in dark grey. He's been asking me about it as he knows I dabble in DAing etc. He's managed to swipe some hedges and has some scratches (really light brushing) down the side and asked me to give it the full works when I can.

He then informed me it has Diamond Brite or whatever that "lifetime" car protection thing is, and asked if that was a problem. I laughed and told him that there's a very good chance that it's long since gone. He washes the car most weekends with what I presume is Halfords finest yellow sponge and turtlejuice shampoo. There's no beading or shine to the car any more.

Am I right to assume that this magical lifetime paintwork protection was probably blown off on the test drive and I can carry on as normal when attacking the paint..?!

Thanks

Yeah, be reet mate. Make sure the car is clayed to remove any leftovers just incase. But polishing will remove anything else.

I also have a stupid question...

When detailing, are you able to apply a couple layers of sealant, then add a couple layers of wax on top of that straight away? So that once the wax has worn off, the car is still protected?!
Any implications from doing this?

Reason I ask is that I want to do this on the 'flower, as wax gives a much better look, but lasts about 2 seconds lol.

Sort of. I use Zaino Z2 as a base for summer waxes mate. Usually wait 24 hours on the sealant totally curing but if time and dirt isn't on your side just fire the wax on. Leave each layer at least 20 minutes though.

Can't decide if this is a good thread or not. :S I suppose the other one wasn't ideal for chat! We'll see how it goes.

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

Cheers boss, as I thought.

Are any of those types of "lifetime" seals actually any good if done properly or are they all applied incorrectly by the receptionist at the stealers so they last for about a week !

 

[Cliotoby]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

Figured we might as well combine all the silly questions into one thread.



I'll start !

Colleagues car is a 58-ish plate Nissan Qashqai thing in dark grey. He's been asking me about it as he knows I dabble in DAing etc. He's managed to swipe some hedges and has some scratches (really light brushing) down the side and asked me to give it the full works when I can.

He then informed me it has Diamond Brite or whatever that "lifetime" car protection thing is, and asked if that was a problem. I laughed and told him that there's a very good chance that it's long since gone. He washes the car most weekends with what I presume is Halfords finest yellow sponge and turtlejuice shampoo. There's no beading or shine to the car any more.

Am I right to assume that this magical lifetime paintwork protection was probably blown off on the test drive and I can carry on as normal when attacking the paint..?!

Thanks

Even if it is still there which I doubt, the process of paintwork prepping for machine polishing will remove it. Further polishing this via machine will strip it back further.

 

[Harpham]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

Sort of. I use Zaino Z2 as a base for summer waxes mate. Usually wait 24 hours on the sealant totally curing but if time and dirt isn't on your side just fire the wax on. Leave each layer at least 20 minutes though.

Cool. Zaino Z2 is actually the product in question.
Yeah, I imagine that id just have to fire it on tbh. Ill be doing it the day before CSS (the car will be sat in the OH's garage from the Wednesday, but I won't have time on the Wednesday to do loads, hit arches etc I imagine, with the proper detail being on the Friday).
Ill usually leave a good 20-30mins between layers anyway.

Cheers Kev.

 

[Yellow Dave]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

The thing with layering waxes over sealants is they won't be bonding to the paint, but instead a nice slippery sealant so the wax won't last as long typically.

Also, the wax on top will only last as long as the sealant, so if you put a sealant on that last say 3months, and a wax over that lasts 6months, you're still only looking at 3months durability, should be fine though with Z2

 

[Cliotoby]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

Basically, a complete waste of time and product.

 

[Gally]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

Sort of what Dave is saying. Z2 is a stunning base product for the likes of BOS and R222's or pinnacle. Waxes which look immense but simply don't last. Luckily the likes of Z2 have great durability if bonded to the paint right. I see 6 months on cars wearing 1 layer or Z2 (Looks better with 3 layers imo)

Remember years ago people used Jet seal as a base for everything? Same thing? Infact Werkstat Prime is actually a good example. It's a cleanser with a base sealant. Great double combo.

I used Z2 again last night. 1 pea sized Blob covered a full TT bonnet. Love Zaino!

 

[Gally]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

Basically, a complete waste of time and product.

Not really. The likes of Bos should actually be preceeded with Shield. Most people use Z2 though.

Waxes will bond to sealants just fine, providing it's done right. Just like Z2 bonds to Amigo or any glaze bonds to a wax/sealant if done correctly.

 

[Chapppers11]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

Maybe this should be changed to be the Detailing Chat & Questions Thread, makes more sense than clogging up the "What have you bought" thread.

 

[Gally]

Re: The Stupid Car Cleaning/Detailing Questions Thread..

I've reported it mate, see if we can change the thread title.

 

[Tom]

Saw chappers PM first, sorted.

 

[bright]

So I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to detailing, in fact complete noob.
I'm looking into a wax to buy for my Inferno, thats relatively hard wearing but still only costs about £25. Ideally resistant to fallout as my work has fallout issues
Also a clay that a noob won't completley ruin a car with.
Some applicators and a drying towel

Then need to put it on before CSS!

Currrent plan of attack.
Rinse
Autoglym Tar and adhesive remover for the masses of tar on my car
Rinse
autoglym shampoo 2 bucket wash method with a microfibre sponge and lambswool mitt
Rinse
clay bar with whichever product I get
wash
Autoglym SRP
Wax with whatever product I get.

I get the autoglym shampoo and SRP free from work hence I already have them!

Tips on application of SRP and wax would be good as I have a tendancy to use too much!

thanks
G

 

[Chapppers11]

I've reported it mate, see if we can change the thread title.

Cool, I did as well, hopefully there won't be any more threads popping up asking what wax for my RB/LY etc. and they will be directed in here.

Better still, they might read the countless posts by some of us before posting!

Saw chappers PM first, sorted.

Nice one Tom.

 

[James28]

Wasn't the detailing chat thread essentially the same as this?

 

[Gally]

It ended up like that but wasn't what the thread was for. At least this one can answer most questions.

 

[Jay.S]

So I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to detailing, in fact complete noob.
I'm looking into a wax to buy for my Inferno, thats relatively hard wearing but still only costs about £25. Ideally resistant to fallout as my work has fallout issues
Also a clay that a noob won't completley ruin a car with.
Some applicators and a drying towel

Then need to put it on before CSS!

Currrent plan of attack, should go like this:-

Powerhose/Snowfoam/Hosedown > 2BM wash > Tar remover > Iron X (If you want this doesn't need to be done every wash) > Rinse > Clay( Agian not needed every wash) > Wash > Dry > Polish > LSP(Sealant/Wax)

Don't be forgetting your wheels

thanks
G

EFA

I have got the ball rolling for you, other people may chip in to help you out aswell.

Wax I would go for AGHD wax which is currently £28.75 on Amazon with a mircofibre and applicator.

Blit hammer gets recommend a lot for a first clay bar although personally I have never used it, I opted for Zaino Z16. I would also recommend you get IronX if you have fallout issues as this will help remove them.

Applicators I would go for Megs foam and also the Megs mircofibre ones. The microfibres are a good all rounder which can be used for Tar removal and polishing. Foam are a good wax applicator.

When you come to do the car again either a 2BM wash or a QD should do you fine as the protection should still be present. Simple way to check is to see if it still beads.

It was about time we had a thread like this as sometimes it's hard to stay on track with it all.

 

[aucky]

On the sealant/wax combo issue, I always go for a sealant base with a sacrificial wax coat on top. You may say ''waste of product'' etc but that is essentially what detailing is about; going the extra mile.

As gally said, Prime (Strong variant for me) is a fantastic base.

 

[James28]

Now I dno whether to ask any questions in here on in the chat one!
What else is there to "chat" about if you're not asking questions/comparing products?!

 

[Paul172sport]

So one for peoples opinions.

What actually defines a detail or detailer?

does a wax and polish really be a detail? When does it cross the line?

 

[bright]

EFA

I have got the ball rolling for you, other people may chip in to help you out aswell.

Wax I would go for AGHD wax which is currently £28.75 on Amazon with a mircofibre and applicator.

Blit hammer gets recommend a lot for a first clay bar although personally I have never used it, I opted for Zaino Z16. I would also recommend you get IronX if you have fallout issues as this will help remove them.

Applicators I would go for Megs foam and also the Megs mircofibre ones. The microfibres are a good all rounder which can be used for Tar removal and polishing. Foam are a good wax applicator.

When you come to do the car again either a 2BM wash or a QD should do you fine as the protection should still be present. Simple way to check is to see if it still beads.

It was about time we had a thread like this as sometimes it's hard to stay on track with it all.

Thanks a lot, will have a look at all that

 

[aucky]

So one for peoples opinions.

What actually defines a detail or detailer?

does a wax and polish really be a detail? When does it cross the line?

I'd say it essentially comes down to 'clean' not being good enough.

Now I dno whether to ask any questions in here on in the chat one!
What else is there to "chat" about if you're not asking questions/comparing products?!

Half of the product orders thread is chat about products and techniques etc. We seem to able to waffle on enough to keep it on the front page for the last few months.

 

[The Russian.]

So one for peoples opinions.

What actually defines a detail or detailer?

does a wax and polish really be a detail? When does it cross the line?

Definition of a detailer


When we see people doing a quick 1 bucket, sponge rubbing, sun shining-swirl causing Technique and cringe

Basically a detailer takes time and cleans a car that can take up to a day or two, making sure that every nook and cranny is free from dirt/contamination to the end process of well protected bodywork.

Like me old man says, you work hard to buy things in life so respect them

 

[Paul172sport]

Totally agree. Nothing better than day off work to work on the car and look at it in evening and see your hard work. It just becomes an addiction

 

[Chapppers11]

Definitely mate.

Doing it for someone else is even better, seeing their face at the end is priceless.

 

[Gally]

So one for peoples opinions.

What actually defines a detail or detailer?

does a wax and polish really be a detail? When does it cross the line?

I don't really think it's a question that needs answered. It is what it is.

I have seen some detailing threads contain a wash and wax! That's just cleaning.

 

[Chapppers11]

I'd consider detailing to be thorough cleaning of every surface and adding the protection after cleansing.

If someone asked me what it was that's what I'd say, that and getting the car to better than showroom standard through machine polishing.

You can clean a panel, but unless you address every crevice on the panel, it hasn't been detailed imo.

 

[Paul172sport]

There's just been so many threads previously that appear just a good clean rather than a detail but always titled as detailing

 

[lemonnobby]

Hi chaps bit of advise.
can you use tripple on a rotary, or lime prime which one would you go for.

Also i have tough coat can you wax over this or wax in stead of this. So is it one or
the other.

 

[Gally]

If you're using tough coat go with tripple mate. Lime prime can be a little fussy although via rotary it's a superb product.

Tripple on a light pad will work fine on the rotary once the pad is primed correctly. Keep at low speeds and just see how it goes. Very good product.

 

[Yellow Dave]

tripple works well via rotary but can clog the pad or dry out a little so as said prime the pad properly and use very little.

You can wax over tough coat and have done it before to good effect. If you wax over tripple make sure it's a proper wax and not a sealant hybrid like 476s etc as the solvents effect tripple.

 

[Saner]

A question I've asked before, but never had an answer that I'm confident with!

How does somebody doing paint correction make sure they don't go through the Lacquer? The paint micrometers show how thick the paint and lacquer are combined. So you could go to correct a car taht has already been corrected, and go straight through no? Also, how many times can a car be corrected? Or seeing as you don't know the depth of lacquer that can't be answered?

 

[Gally]

You had much use out of Tripple Dave? Good results? I think it's a great product, especially as a modern Srp product, much better!

They should make their Glaze similar without the carnauba content. Rejuvenate but a bit more glaze like, slicker and more fillers.

 

[Chapppers11]

A question I've asked before, but never had an answer that I'm confident with!

How does somebody doing paint correction make sure they don't go through the Lacquer? The paint micrometers show how thick the paint and lacquer are combined. So you could go to correct a car taht has already been corrected, and go straight through no? Also, how many times can a car be corrected? Or seeing as you don't know the depth of lacquer that can't be answered?

Knowing average depths for the particular car is key, some BMW's will read as high as 250-300ums and have rock solid paint, where as Mazda's for instance are often sub-100ums with soft paint.

You can often measure the thickness of the clear coat (without a clear coat guage) by getting an average reading of the exterior paint, then an average of the unlacquered parts like door shuts, and take the unlacquered away from the exterior readings to give you a very rough estimate.

You would then be able to 'guage' the level of correction available. You can usually tell if a car has been compounded or polished poorly by higher measurements further up the car, like on the roof and bonnet, because some people can't be bothered to polish whole cars!

All imo of course.

 

[Gally]

A question I've asked before, but never had an answer that I'm confident with!

How does somebody doing paint correction make sure they don't go through the Lacquer? The paint micrometers show how thick the paint and lacquer are combined. So you could go to correct a car taht has already been corrected, and go straight through no? Also, how many times can a car be corrected? Or seeing as you don't know the depth of lacquer that can't be answered?

Chappers answers it quite well. Working in the repair industry you actually get to know depths of each stage also which help dramatically.

Common sense comes into play also. My Frp had a lot of paint on it because it was hand painted after the factory paint had been put on. Plenty of clear coat to play with.

Uneven readings around the car of course hint to poor polishing and or paintwork.

 

[Chapppers11]

You can usually tell if a car has been compounded or polished poorly by Lower measurements further up the car, like on the roof and bonnet, because some people can't be bothered to polish whole cars!

EFA.

I think the first suggestion with Machine Polishing is to know how much paint you are dealing with!

 

[Saner]

Thanks guys, thats a thought that has always bugged me solved! Didn't realise you could get Clear coat measures.

Also you kinda saying that one shouldn't really take up Paint Correction without also having a micrometer, as its such a useful toll in identifying what your working with?

 

[Chapppers11]

Ideally yea, but as Gally said, common sense prevails.

You shouldn't go attacking notoriously soft or thin paint without one.

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

I have seen some detailing threads contain a wash and wax! That's just cleaning.

Hence the OP being called cleaning/ detailing


Here's one for you/anyone - Nissan paint - hard/soft/see-thru ?

2008ish grey qashqui thing.

I'm guessing at medium-hardness..? Anyone want to, er, correct me..?