Donor dilemma

[16V F7R]

Hi all, I thought I would start a thread about this and hopefully get some sound advice along the way. I am a novice mechanic and have been for many years as I just simply don’t get the time. However none the less I am a petrol head through and through that has owned many different cars, some for long periods and some for short but always had a big passion for fast Renaults.

I won’t waffle on too much as I know how much of a pain in the arse it can be having to read essays!

I have purchased a mk1 Clio valver with a Williams F7R conversion that the engine build and transplant was done by the man himself Nick Hill (Hill Power). I was only on the hunt for the engine to boost and put into my R5. To be brief I have had the R5 for many years, stripped it down to a rolling shell had all welding done, full repspray, got the OE bug bad, got it back on the road, done 6k miles in it and then decided I’m getting a bit bored of it (not completely, still a hoot to drive in fine fresh standard form) but I had many a lusting thought about ditching the C1J for the F7R.

So here is some pics of the valver as I bought her. I basically bought her as a running car but the car had stood for 10 years covered up in a compound. The car had storage marks, all interior stripped, brakes were none existent but engine, gauges and most electrics were working. Engine needed a new injector he said to get it going again and the engine sounded good with its Magnex burbling away it ran up to temp for the fan to kick in and out and hold temp nicely and so I bought it. I fully expected the shell to be rotten and paid what I thought the car was worth to me for the engine box and all the ancillaries.

The interior, dash everything was slung into the back of the car and I had to have it trailered back as it was no where near road worthy to drive. Then I left it in a garage for nearly 2 years.

Until now!

 

[16V F7R]

When I started getting a bit of time to work (or I should say tinker really) with a Clio again (albeit mk1 this time) I first wanted to examine the shell properly as I 100% know what I am looking for here. I had taken it for a drive around the block (death trap with virtually no brakes) but engine and suspension seemed all ok. The car has Bilsteins fitted. The more I kept examining the shell though the more pleasantly surprised I became but then I could see a dilemma in the making and the mrs fretting about me buying and keeping another car. You see where this going.

Plenty of tidying up to do to say the least. Recommissioning of mechanicals. Plenty of snapped bolts 👌but most importantly no proper rotting here and well worth saving! The worst bit I would say is that the clips for the break pipes and fuel pipes on the floor pan are the only bits where a couple have rusted through the floor so not looking forward to sorting that. The rest of the shell seems to have nothing serious to fail an mot anytime soon so hopefully I will get her road worthy and start putting here through her paces on the lanes and B roads and see if she will stand up to a bit of track action eventually. It’s a shame not to save her IMO and a shame to strip her of her engine.

The problem is this costs time and money and my 5 is already pretty much stripped awaiting the right body shop for me to find to get the shell on a spit and go the whole hog on her now. And then this valver pops up. I suppose there could be worse problems to have. Oh and here is the front window screen on the valver

 

[16V F7R]

And from the inside.

 

[16V F7R]

Time to start tidying it up. So tempted to polish a turd...

 

[16V F7R]

I purchased some Kurust gel and scotch pads and started prepping and treating.

The drivers side rear arch hasn’t been done like the passenger side and it is bubbling up on the outside but after a good rub down no holes appeared and I have applied Kurust to everywhere inside the car and left overnight and painted with Hammerite rust eater grey primer paint to seal it all off and that will do for now. I still purchased a new rear quarter for the drivers side for the future anyway.

I then examined the steering column issue which I have already mentioned on another thread on here and I have had some help with that so thanks👍
To pass an mot I believe I am looking at -
Sorting the steering column play
Sorting why the handbrake lights won’t work
Fit new CV boots

The list of other jobs to sort on this though is much larger! I thought I would start working on cleaning up the car outside a bit first.

 

[16V F7R]

Rear arch tidy up and around the petrol cap is great. I gave the callipers a paint to after stripping them all off a recommissioning the seized callipers. Flushed all the brake fluid too. I had some help with this but I feel confident enough to tackle myself next time around.

 

[16V F7R]

Everything has had a good coat of Kurust gel and now I have even primed too but as I have a lot of existing seam sealer everywhere I wanted to know if I am best to re-coat areas with upol seam sealer And then paint the arches or just paint? I see people using this Gravitex stuff is it? But I don’t want to be using that when my arches are half bare and half seam sealed, better to just finish off with seam sealer and then what should I use to paint?

 

[16V F7R]

Well I got the steering bush welded up by a mate and he gave me a basic tutorial of stick welding. 5ere was remains of the plastic bush still in the gap that melted everywhere but do you think there is enough weld on the four sides for this to hold ok?

 

[NBG182]

Well I got the steering bush welded up by a mate and he gave me a basic tutorial of stick welding. 5ere was remains of the plastic bush still in the gap that melted everywhere but do you think there is enough weld on the four sides for this to hold ok?
View attachment 1530021

That's only tacked ain't it? Surely whip it out and finish the job. Will beat the hell out of the steering column disconnecting from the rack at 70.

 

[16V F7R]

I agree. The melted plastic has bloody gone everywhere and was oozing out when trying to weld it. Hopefully it won’t second time around.

 

[NBG182]

I agree. The melted plastic has bloody gone everywhere and was oozing out when trying to weld it. Hopefully it won’t second time around.

If you can I'd try to get the remains of the old bush out of there before welding. Having all that rubber bubbling out of there is bound to contaminate the weld, or atleast just make it difficult to get any kind of good results.

 

[16V F7R]

I wish I had foreseen this. I couldn’t see the bush and the bush was all dripping out of the bottom a lot but it still needs more welding all around to be sure. Thanks for your help.

 

[16V F7R]

I have purchased a SIP arc welder from a local tool shop and had a bash at strengthening this weld. It’s not pretty but I feel it will be strong enough to the standard bush. Here is pics from all four angles.

 

[16V F7R]

Rust on the front arches treated and painted just for prolonging life for now. Rear arches treated from inside, the near side had been replaced but drivers side I have just caught in time. I bought a new rear quarter off eBay for £39 though. Arch liners cleaned up and refitted. Two bigger plastic inserts required now for two holes that have rusted bigger. Scuttle areas all cleaned up mint and cleaned up scuttle covers one is cracked but I’m not buying a new one for now. Polished the glass to remove the remains of the sun strip and stickers. I got hold of scuttle cover clips and rear window pop out window fixing. Fitted new back box hanger rubbers straighten the exhaust a bit better and polished it up with polish and wire wool. Then I couldn’t resist and did the whole car, just a quick job. Carpet back in and seat back in.

I went for a quick test drive and steering is straight and precise. Bilstein suspension feels well set up too. CV boots need replacing but to be honest I would like to take the front subframe off and aqua blast and paint everything and change all the bushes, wishbones, driveshafts, track ends the lot but it will take me forever at the rate I go and I haven’t done it before. I need to not get carried away too much with this for now as I have become a bit obsessed with this valver and I have completely shelved my 5 which I shouldn’t do. The 5 is my priority I keep telling myself! F7R feels great though, reminds me of my 182.

 

[16V F7R]

I purchased a boot lid that is standard with badges, boot lock and wiper. It won’t get fitted until she gets paint one day. It’s blue so not going to fit it although I want to get rid of the spoiler so bad! The black paint on her has a metallic sparkle in it. I here there were two black colours that was available in the valvers so is this black paint an optional extra from new? Colour is dull now but this is like glitter in the paint that only shows in sunlight. I have all the oe parts for the car including all trim some that is new in the packaging as well as rubber window trims and brake ducts for the wishbones.some stuff is very tired and worn though. All this stuff won’t get fitted now but it’s all new to me. I had a 97 Punto GT back in the day instead of a valver. Always loved the valver but it was a punto gt or a 5 gtt I was choosing between back then, I just love the boost!

 

[dann2707]

For the sake of all things that are holy please don't drive your car with that welded like that

If you can take it off and take it to me in derby I'll do it for you for free.

 

[16V F7R]

It is a steering rack off job isn’t it? I’m sure the standard plastic bush wouldn’t have been as strong as that?

When the subframe comes off I will have it done better. Thanks for the offer and advice.

 

[dann2707]

It is a steering rack off job isn’t it? I’m sure the standard plastic bush wouldn’t have been as strong as that?

When the subframe comes off I will have it done better. Thanks for the offer and advice.

I think it would dude! That doesn't look strong at all mate.

No worries buddy, just let me know and very happy to help.

 

[16V F7R]

That’s great thanks. I was never going to push it or even drive fast on me test drive. Just low speed hard cornering, some manoeuvres in an open space and then a bit of road to see if all seemed well and it did thank god! I couldn’t resist and was very cautious of it. A nice bit of low down grunt in the F7R! Here’s a pic of my DIY rust stop arches for now as it stands! What quality of work I produce!🤣👌 I need to plug that hole into the chassis what have people covered it with!

Next step see if I have the bottle to take this subframe off someday or pay my mech to do it, but that’s the R5 budget!

 

[16V F7R]

 

[16V F7R]

 

[16V F7R]

 

[16V F7R]

 

[Unlucky-Racing]

Glad you've decided to keep it and spruce it up. I've had a few cars over the years but I think my Valver was my favourite. I'm always tempted to have another one. Not so keen on bump strip delete on these.

 

[16V F7R]

Yes I can not bring myself to sell it as I have really enjoyed learning and piecing back together a mk1 Clio which I’ve always loved but never owned. I’ve had a 182 and a v6. There is plenty of similarities with this and the R5 though but this is in far better condition compared to what my R5 was like.

Im certainly not going to town on this (as you can see😂) I have put a lot of hours in putting it back together and tidying it up though and I am currently treating more surface rust (not rot) underneath and primer and painting the underneath, I’ve done the back end so far.

All it took was the steering rack to be welded and some of the brake lines to be replaced and it is now back on the road awaiting being taxed this weekend.

The problem is the longer I keep it the more I keep working on this and not the R5. Not good. I need to get the cam belt done next and then wheel bearings. I’d love to get the subframe off and rear beam as well.

 

[16V F7R]

I’m not a fan of the side bump strips being removed either but I hear it is not an easy job to reverse that? The boot lid is more offensive though, the replacement is in with a painter now and I am keeping the R19 16V badge because it’s rare and I like it and I think the phase 2 should have come with this badge on the back anyway personally. I am a big fan of the OE+ theme. I like the exterior original just with nice rims and dropped but under the bonnet, well tuned or OEM+

 

[16V F7R]

The rest of the underneath will be following suit.
The leaking sunroof was driving me mad. When you turn left or right it soaks either driver or passenger 😂 I heard it is incurable so in order to finally keep the floor pan dry I have made the decision to seal the sunroof shut. Not pretty but I don’t care, as long as the car ain’t rotting and is driving well. I can tidy my silicone up in time but I just want to make sure it’s sealed and doesn’t leak anymore which I think I’ve achieved.

 

[Coops Mk1]

Just caught up on this. Nice to see one being cared for again as think I said in your new user thread.

Column weld, wouldn't overly worry, if the weld breaks, it'll just go back to sloppy steering but ideally it does want doing a bit better. Column can be removed with subframe still on the car.

There is clearly some rot in the front of the car, inner arches etc but rest looks mainly surface and or cosmetic so overall not too bad which is a bonus.

Side strips can be restored but you'll need a body shop to dig the filler back out to find the shape of the mounting locations etc, personally I like the smooth look but not in every instance, so my track MK1 wouldn't look right but my phase 2 facelift car, it suits it IMO

Keep the updates coming

 

[16V F7R]

Thanks for the comments. Always a slow burn with me doing anything to my cars!

All the underneath has been de rusted, treated and painted silver. No rot there. Not perfect though of course but I’ve seen far newer cars far worse. Only for basic protection and functionality. I plan to use this Clio quite a lot.

Exhaust rubbers have been replaced. De-catted and I kid you not Donald Ward recycling have me £400 for my Cat!!!! Very happy day that was.

I had to get the front wheel bearings replaced and the break compensator has been replaced for a new R5 item.

The steering rack has held up so far, it feels solid where I welded it. The subframe will come off and the rear beam at some point. I will look at the rack again then but I have not been concerned about it during testing.

I have been giving it a bit of a shakedown and the engine and handling feels spot on. The best way for me to describe it, as I never had a mark 1 back in the day (punto gt instead) is it feels like I’m driving the 5 but engine like my 182 I used to have. I actually am preferring this engine and Clio more than my 182 though! Nick Hill certainly knows how to build an F7!

Anyway, I’m stupid because I should get the cam belt done ASAP! Engine sounds and runs so sweet. Every time I take her out, not in the salt though I just keep becoming more and more brave with it and pushing it more and more and the little Clio is just lapping it up. It’s like the gift that keeps giving! Not like when I bought my R5
Lol!

ITG filter purchased and fitted, I’m doing the engine oil and gearbox oil in April, can you recommend what’s best please? I have found a mech who will do my cam belt now also. Then it’s time to go and break it on a track!😂

 

[16V F7R]

OE boot lid is painted now I have to collect it soon. Side strips purchased with a nod to the F7R inside.

 

[16V F7R]

I forgot to mention the mounting holes for the side strips are all there. I think you may be able to see from my earlier pics but in my album here I can see they weren’t welded up. Just a cheapo job done by the body shop back in the day.

Boot lid is now painted and on. I just need to fit the 16v badge. I want to replace the roof for non sunroof now. I give up with this sunroof. If anyone wants to buy the old flushed boot lid with spoiler let me know, the heated rear window worked fine on it as well.

Another great drive today but the breaks are starting to go soft AGAIN on first press of the pedal so I’m having to double pump again to hard break. I think the callipers just need stripping now but as the plan is to have this as my occasional track day car I’d rather just put better breaks on anyway.

The poor 5 is just sitting there with virtually no progress. I’ve finally got the dash out now and I need to borrow an engine lift to get the engine and box out.

 

[RichValver]

I forgot to mention the mounting holes for the side strips are all there. I think you may be able to see from my earlier pics but in my album here I can see they weren’t welded up. Just a cheapo job done by the body shop back in the day.

Boot lid is now painted and on. I just need to fit the 16v badge. I want to replace the roof for non sunroof now. I give up with this sunroof. If anyone wants to buy the old flushed boot lid with spoiler let me know, the heated rear window worked fine on it as well.

Another great drive today but the breaks are starting to go soft AGAIN on first press of the pedal so I’m having to double pump again to hard break. I think the callipers just need stripping now but as the plan is to have this as my occasional track day car I’d rather just put better breaks on anyway.

The poor 5 is just sitting there with virtually no progress. I’ve finally got the dash out now and I need to borrow an engine lift to get the engine and box out.
View attachment 1589990View attachment 1589991

Imo go for 172 calipers/discs/pads

I put the same discs/pads as I have on my 172 but in valver fitment and they are crap in comparison. Pad size is massively different

 

[16V F7R]

Thanks for the advice. Do 172 callipers bolt straight on or do you need to make a adapter? Sorry if his is a stupid question, can you buy adaptors of the shelf to adapt certain callipers to hubs or do you have to make yourself?

 

[16V F7R]

Offside rear arch is finally getting done to Match the near side done by a previous owner.
a strip of plastic insert and filler popped out easy enough on the sides, et voila, all ready for some nice side strip delete reversal. How times have changed from me max power days!

 

[16V F7R]

I drove out east early one Sunday morning a while back to cut this roof off with a chap I made contact through fb I also got nice roof rail trims with it and a heater fan resistor to get my heaters finally blowing which was the only thing not working.

 

[16V F7R]

I hate sunroofs, good riddance 🖕

 

[Bluebeard]

Holy s**t this is some progress!! Fair play.

 

[16V F7R]

Yes, biting the bullet and spending some ££’s on it now. Belts and bottom pulley done by a local garage who has a decent mech who loves work like this. The owner has a well sorted clio track car also. Then this decision to sort the sunroof and side strips and arch has been made and escalated to a respray. It’s a 4 owner car, worked on by Nick Hill, 110k, great history and not rotten. It’s worth it. I was hammering it on the roads end of last summer and autumn and she has not missed a beat. It is safe to say this engine ain’t going in the 5.

 

[Martin_172]

Fair play, pulling out all the stops. Good work. Will be following this closely

 

[16V F7R]

Bit of an update. Looking a bit more respectable now and how I want it to externally. Still driving spot on, leaving mechanicals well alone. works completed -

Respray in factory black
roof transplant
better roof gutter trims
Best inner roof lining I could find, non sunroof roof console to modify and fit
offside rotten arch sorted with new rear quarter panel fitted
waxoiled in all cavities
best used scuttle covers I could find and painted with textured paint
side bump strips painted with textured paint
bumper bump strips painted in textured paint
guy at the body shop painted my whole mirrors in black and not with the textured paint where required so they will be done again when it goes back for a polish
bonnet vent painted with textured paint
bottom trim on the front bumper painted with textured paint
boot spoiler painted with textured paint
best I could get front window rubbers
new front window scrapers
my clear set of r5 fog lights
all interior back in AGAIN!
Door pockets painted with Halfords flexible vinyl paint
correct centre caps fitted on alloys but they need a refurb badly and I’d rather wait and get a set of Willy wheels eventually and paint silver
break callipers were sent to big red for a rebuild on all 4, new ferrodo pads
painted the callipers silver
mot soon, should pass no problem.

Here are the pics but it needs to go back for another polish and then I will do a Mcguiers spray on ceramic coat treatment. Loads more jobs I can do with this project but I just want to use it and enjoy it for now. Everything is working and performing as it should. It’s doesn’t have a rattle or squeak driving and feels so tight. It’s still a weapon to attack the country lanes.