As above, the starter is purely run from the key, no ECU input at all.
Get some jump leads and try
Get some jump leads and try
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Ecu Unlocking
- Thread starter James.f
- Start date
Sorry been out trying to bump start it with my dads car,
I did move the car back and forth to try and release it but no joy, i would have carried on but its pissing it down,
It cant be the battery as its a new one(2months old) from halfords, but il charge it over night and try again tommorow,
il report back tommorow
I did move the car back and forth to try and release it but no joy, i would have carried on but its pissing it down,
It cant be the battery as its a new one(2months old) from halfords, but il charge it over night and try again tommorow,
il report back tommorow
Jump start with leads, sorry we use bump start up here for some reason
even that should have done something, but it did nothing because whent he solenoid is stuck on the starter you would still hear it trying to tho like a clunk noise,
Whats the Uch got to do with everything tho? as i read in your previous posts Page 1 that you asked me if i was using a UCH aswell
even that should have done something, but it did nothing because whent he solenoid is stuck on the starter you would still hear it trying to tho like a clunk noise,
Whats the Uch got to do with everything tho? as i read in your previous posts Page 1 that you asked me if i was using a UCH aswell
Jump start with leads, sorry we use bump start up here for some reason
even that should have done something, but it did nothing because whent he solenoid is stuck on the starter you would still hear it trying to tho like a clunk noise,
Whats the Uch got to do with everything tho? as i read in your previous posts Page 1 that you asked me if i was using a UCH aswell
UCH tells the ECU that the key is in the hole and gives the ECU the immobiliser code.
Emulator has a code built in that it feeds to the ECU, when an ECU is virginised it is ready to accept a new code, be it from a UCH or an emulator
Jump start with leads, sorry we use bump start up here for some reason
even that should have done something, but it did nothing because whent he solenoid is stuck on the starter you would still hear it trying to tho like a clunk noise,
Whats the Uch got to do with everything tho? as i read in your previous posts Page 1 that you asked me if i was using a UCH aswell
Ignore the UCH, its not needed for immobiliser functions now you've installed an emulator.
If the solenoid was stuck you would not hear anything...exactly as you describe.
The solenoid is just a magnet, when you turn the key a small current attracts two parts together to force the cog into the flywheel. As these parts two are attracted the motor is given a full on current to turn the motor...
For example if the magnet was stuck or something else has gone wrong nothing would happen and you wouldnt hear anything.......
Make sure the little white connector is on the starter motor mate
What i did find was with the Emulator is that it doesnt work for Series 34 Ecu.. now are you both running the Series 32 or 34?
Reason beeing is when i spoke on the phone to tek-tronics he said it wont for the 34, so i still orderd to try as it was only 35quid.
Il sort the starter motor tommorow, but ye i kno what you mean now with the small cog etc, makes perfect sense now, so everytime i have been moving car back and forth its pointless as i though that would move the small cog which would un-stick the starter, sometimes i can be thick lol,
@ willy, yee thats on, it was only last week the car was turning over, so iv only basicly removed the ecu and put it back, but 100% sure its down to battery now, lucky we have 2 clios in the family il just borrow my sisters battery
Reason beeing is when i spoke on the phone to tek-tronics he said it wont for the 34, so i still orderd to try as it was only 35quid.
Il sort the starter motor tommorow, but ye i kno what you mean now with the small cog etc, makes perfect sense now, so everytime i have been moving car back and forth its pointless as i though that would move the small cog which would un-stick the starter, sometimes i can be thick lol,
@ willy, yee thats on, it was only last week the car was turning over, so iv only basicly removed the ecu and put it back, but 100% sure its down to battery now, lucky we have 2 clios in the family il just borrow my sisters battery
You've got a ph2 ecu?
Mines a 32N yer, thought your chips looked a little different.
Is pin 58 even the immob pin on the 34?
Mines a 32N yer, thought your chips looked a little different.
Is pin 58 even the immob pin on the 34?
yup its a ph2 ecu.
ye i noticed you had solderd the immob(yellow) cable to a totally diff place,
Yee pin 58 is Engine Immobilsier System
I didn't solder it, RStuning did it.
They soldered it to a test point further into the circuit and spliced a hole into inbetween the test point and the actual pin out.
Not the best method but it works.
The ecu has been virginised, basically it's like a brand new ecu that's ready to accept a new immob code, if you've soldered an emulator on it'll more than likely have taken the new code from that (if it's a valid code), if you're lucky and it's not taken the code then you might be able to get it to take the code from the uch (although you've removed pin 58 from the ecu so you might need to fix that somehow)
No, it wont run without a code. The SIRIUS ecu's need a code present when running all maps (EXCEPT the 1.4 16v lap, which the ECU clinic put onto mine when they f**ked it up, thinking I would not realise). Every other map requires an immobiliser code (weather it be from the UCH or Emulator) to be present for the car to run.
Mine is SIRIUS32, because its a Ph1.
Mine is SIRIUS32, because its a Ph1.
Right,
Checked everything over and noticed that somehow the solenoid on the starter had come loose, so i connected that back, nicked my sister brand new battery, and nothing happend,
Now its making sense because this Chip wont work for mine as its not compatible with the sirius 34, But were can i get a sirius 34 chip from tho :S
Checked everything over and noticed that somehow the solenoid on the starter had come loose, so i connected that back, nicked my sister brand new battery, and nothing happend,
Now its making sense because this Chip wont work for mine as its not compatible with the sirius 34, But were can i get a sirius 34 chip from tho :S
It's the 1.4 16v kangoo map that runs with no immob code
I don't know of an emulator for the Sirius 34, your best bet is to get it working with a UCH!
If you have any good freinds with a Ph2 try putting there ecu & uch internals of there key into yours it sounds like a lot of work but it'll rule out a lot of probs as if it starts just order an ecu uch + lock set off steve 79 he sold me one off a 172 for£100 , if it still don't start you can look at wiring harness probs.
Hope you have some realy good m8s, I'm to far away or I would of had a look.
Hope you have some realy good m8s, I'm to far away or I would of had a look.
Does the key match the UCH?
this is just a complete mess of confusion now.
TBH I dont see why the emu will not work on the Sirius34 ecu as long as its connected to the right pin....the UCH's output the same signal weather it be Ph1 and Ph2...ive tested both, still got my Ph1 one.
If you connect it back to the UCH it most probably wont work...as it wasnt before and you've not changed anything.
TBH I dont see why the emu will not work on the Sirius34 ecu as long as its connected to the right pin....the UCH's output the same signal weather it be Ph1 and Ph2...ive tested both, still got my Ph1 one.
If you connect it back to the UCH it most probably wont work...as it wasnt before and you've not changed anything.
righ let me clear a few things up...
the uch,ecu ignition barrel the lot are from a 172 cup, and this ecu has been unlocked ...(purchased from rm bailey on here)
now i have another set of uch ecu etc which i got from steve79 back in may, now this did work but only turned the engine over but no spark, even tho there was a 12v feed to the coilplug it was just not earthing it(have earthed the engine myself by using jump leads, which did sod all different ...
unfortunalty i dont have any mates that own a sport so im kinda stuck there,
the uch,ecu ignition barrel the lot are from a 172 cup, and this ecu has been unlocked ...(purchased from rm bailey on here)
now i have another set of uch ecu etc which i got from steve79 back in may, now this did work but only turned the engine over but no spark, even tho there was a 12v feed to the coilplug it was just not earthing it(have earthed the engine myself by using jump leads, which did sod all different ...
unfortunalty i dont have any mates that own a sport so im kinda stuck there,
right ok, this is gettin very confusing now tbh,
surely as what trev said to get a set of ecu etc from steve that will not solve the issue in this case, which makes me even more stuck now,
i have to admit theres alot of lose wires in the bay that do sweet f.a (abs connector, and a few other i think that belong to cruise control and PAS) if these are disconnect would it still cause the issue?
think im goin to have to go through everythin one by one again now as its pissing me off big style
surely as what trev said to get a set of ecu etc from steve that will not solve the issue in this case, which makes me even more stuck now,
i have to admit theres alot of lose wires in the bay that do sweet f.a (abs connector, and a few other i think that belong to cruise control and PAS) if these are disconnect would it still cause the issue?
think im goin to have to go through everythin one by one again now as its pissing me off big style
If you have a matching ECU, key and UCH then they should all just work together, aslong as your wiring is right then there shouldn't be an issue. UCH detects the key and the code and sends them to the ECU which then works as it should.
I don't know of anyone running the emulator on a ph2 sirius 34, all the conversion boys that run emulated ecu's use the sirius 32 as it's the ph1 stuff (cable throttle)
I don't know of anyone running the emulator on a ph2 sirius 34, all the conversion boys that run emulated ecu's use the sirius 32 as it's the ph1 stuff (cable throttle)
il have to take a day off this week when its not raining to sort it out now as its just close to 5months
Howmany earth straps are in the entire engine bay? i counted 3. .(main strap by gearbox, one on the driver side near the brake fluid pot + one close to the starter ..)
could relay's cause the problem?
Howmany earth straps are in the entire engine bay? i counted 3. .(main strap by gearbox, one on the driver side near the brake fluid pot + one close to the starter ..)
could relay's cause the problem?
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the starter relay has a switched wire (either + or - cant quite remember) controled by the ecu and then theres a switched wire from barrel, i know a double switched relay makes no sence what-so-ever, so on my car i have a jumper wire to bypass immob
so it will turn over as long as you have the key turned. i think baisically renault have it for two reasons sercurity and so they can disable the switch when the engines running.
so it will turn over as long as you have the key turned. i think baisically renault have it for two reasons sercurity and so they can disable the switch when the engines running.
Really?
That must be purely a ph2 thing then as the ph1 will turn over without an ECU plugged in, it's run purely from the key
Engine Harness? is it like 2 white blocks you have to connect and its under the fuse holder in the bay? ..
ye that earth is connected as i left it in when i removed the old engine.
@ Wilky, how would i test the continuity of the loom?
Bare in minde that everything else works on the loom except headlights as i havnt plugged them in yet.
When i got the Ecu back, the first thing i did was open it up to see were the emulator needed to fit, then i hit a wall as there was no wires inside. I Pm'd jord(f0xy) and he then gave me information on how to fit it,
So basicly no i havnt fitted the ecu straight on after virginising it to the car. which im guessin i should have done..
So basicly no i havnt fitted the ecu straight on after virginising it to the car. which im guessin i should have done..
In theory if you'd have done that, the virginised ECU would have taken the code from the UCH, you have to turn the ignition on for 20 secs or so then turn it off.
Now you've fitted the emulator it may have taken the code from that, if it's a valid code.
Ah b****cks,
Iv sent a email to tek-tronicks to see what he says regarding the code beeing transfered even tho its not compatible with the ecu, if it has taken the code then it will have to be sent again to Rstuning to get done, and hopefully i can switch the pin section over to the other ecu as that would fix the pin 58..
Iv sent a email to tek-tronicks to see what he says regarding the code beeing transfered even tho its not compatible with the ecu, if it has taken the code then it will have to be sent again to Rstuning to get done, and hopefully i can switch the pin section over to the other ecu as that would fix the pin 58..
If it's a valid code though, that's what you want. It should work.
If it's not then the ECU shouldn't have accepted it and you'll still have a virginised ECU.
Have you had it turning over?
on a PH2/SIRIUS34 there isn't a UCH line, I can only assume it gets a message on the CAN bus.
Pin 58 on a SIRIUS 34 is something to do with the cruise control.
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