Fitting front/rear discs 172?

[alexst]

Got them in a nice big red box, Brembo High Carbon + mintex + goodridge hoses...

I am a fairly capable chap, but never really done any work on cars at all before. Im gonna change my rear discs this weekend with greenstuff pads (need some copper grease - where from?)

Would someone reccomend that I have a crack at the fronts with goodridge hoses, or is that best left to the garage. I only have a basic crappy tool kit and nothing else.

+ how long should it take a garage to fit front discs + pads + hoses, i.e. for labour quote? - Garage said about 3-4 hours!!

If someone else wanted to help me out for a few (3) of cases of beer (or cash alternative) - I wanna potentially help out, just dont have the balls or the equipment to do it all myself, I'd be happy to travel a bit + need drivers side upper mount replacing too but dont know where to jack the engine up from, I have that in the corridor too!

Anyone.... (asks shyly albeit cheekily)... I'm in harrogate...

 

[edde]

Get a decient tool kit for starters and I'd do it yourself so long as you know someone who could help you if you get very stuck.

Labour for disks and pads I'd say 1 hour, lines an extra 20 minutes than bleeding the system another 30 minutes. Garage sound like the working froma book as book time for one hose change is almost an hour so theat plus didks plus pads plus bleed is say 3.20. However book time is based on taking the wheell off for each job seperate wheras to change disks when pads are off already is only a few minutes more not an hour.

Cannot help you your a bit far away though.

 

[Da]

I can do the disks/pads mate but lines I would fall flat :dapprove: Only over t'other side of Skipton too! I changed my discs this weekend and it was a bit of a pain but took me just over an hour.

 

[edde]

I can do the disks/pads mate but lines I would fall flat :dapprove: Only over t'other side of Skipton too! I changed my discs this weekend and it was a bit of a pain but took me just over an hour.

Lines arn't much extra work just cover the master cylinder remove the two nuts on the loine put new lines in tigthen up connectors and bleed the brakes.

 

[alexst]

Daz, fancy a visit this saturday morning ill bring the booze, maybe we could hatch a plan RE the lines!! Have you got copper grease... woahh.. all of a sudden this post is starting to look very suspect...

P.S. Is there a how to on the lines, or could anyone provide instructions?

Cheers edde, your a diamond, as ever... where abouts are you just for the record?

 

[alexst]

Ah you beat me there, thanks ;-)

 

[alexst]

What do you rekon daz, are you game?

 

[Tony Hunter]

Be carefull with using copper grease near brakes,as the high temp can melt the grease and copper and make it very difficult to get undone again

 

[alexst]

Should you not use copper grease then?!?

 

[Tony Hunter]

I wouldnt but I bet somebody else would disagree

 

[Da]

I'm free saturday mate, but like I say I can accept no responsibilty for the lines as it'd be my first time

 

[BrianR]

Before you start make sure you have a 30mm socket for the rear hubs or you will just be drinking the beer.

Buy a can of brake cleaner, you will be surprised how much grease they put on new discs to stop them rusting on the shelf.

Have the rear discs got the bearings inserted and are the ABS rings in place. ?

Use a very small amount of Coppaslip on the back of the pads (dont go mad)

The rear pistons need to be wound back to get the new pads in and you should release the handbrake cables and pump the foot-brake (with the engine running) once you have it all re-assembled, This adjusts the rear brakes, then re-connect the cables.

Fronts are a doddle and self adjust.

 

[edde]

Cheers edde, your a diamond, as ever... where abouts are you just for the record?

Just South or Chester.

Theres a guide for fornt brakes on the members area and fubar i think wrote a rear one somwhere off the forum I've got a rear diks guide in PDF format PM me your email address if you want a copy it includes oher stuff on the 172 as well.

Lines are easy just a bit messy.

I woulnd't use copper grease I never have so long as its all clean it shouldn't be a problem the greese wear off over time anyway.

 

[Sami]

My front brakes were squeeking like mad, put some copper grease on the back of the pads and the squeeking stopped...

Also good for putting on the back of discs were they meet with the hub, as they often seem to weld themselves on after time

 

[alexst]

Cheers edde, your a diamond, as ever... where abouts are you just for the record?

Just South or Chester.

Theres a guide for fornt brakes on the members area and fubar i think wrote a rear one somwhere off the forum I've got a rear diks guide in PDF format PM me your email address if you want a copy it includes oher stuff on the 172 as well.

Lines are easy just a bit messy.

I woulnd't use copper grease I never have so long as its all clean it shouldn't be a problem the greese wear off over time anyway.

Cheers, got the rear brake guide, will search for the front disc guide.

Before you start make sure you have a 30mm socket for the rear hubs or you will just be drinking the beer.

Buy a can of brake cleaner, you will be surprised how much grease they put on new discs to stop them rusting on the shelf.

Have the rear discs got the bearings inserted and are the ABS rings in place. ?

Use a very small amount of Coppaslip on the back of the pads (dont go mad)

The rear pistons need to be wound back to get the new pads in and you should release the handbrake cables and pump the foot-brake (with the engine running) once you have it all re-assembled, This adjusts the rear brakes, then re-connect the cables.

Fronts are a doddle and self adjust.

Rears have got bearings and abs rings on, bought them as a package so no probs there.

Daz - Ill get a can of brake cleaner. Have you got any coppaslip, if not Ill get some (where from - halfrauds?), and did you do all that milarky with releasing the handbrake cables to readjust the rear brakes? PM me your address, Ive got maps of the area so no probs there.

Is sat at about 9.30am ok?

 

[alexst]

Ill bring a camera and we can do a how to with photos on the brake lines if you want.

 

[CHRIS172CUP]

Depending on the age of the old rear discs you may need a hub puller! I changed cup/darth/whatevercake's once and they wouldn't budge. A quick visit from Remsport sorted that out

Also, as said don't go mad with copper slip you don't need a lot at all. And if they're mintex they'll squeek no matter what, lol.

You probably only have 2 torx screws aswell with the brembos, why they don't put 4 in I don't know?!

Pi55 easy job discs and pads. Not sure about hoses though:S

 

[BrianR]

If you dont do all that "milarky"(sic) you wont be able to get the new pads in and your handbrake will hit your headlining.

Check the kit you bought, sometimes they put a small sachet of copaslip in the box. If not Halfrauds will sell you a tin for about £4 . Will last you all your life and some....

The set screws on the fronts, only hold the disc in position while the wheels are off, the wheel holds it on tight.

Torque up the following:

Rear hub nuts 175Nm. (no locking fluid required as nut has nylock insert)

Front and rear:-
Brake caliper to carrier 40Nm
Brake carrier to hub 100Nm
And use locking fluid.

Road wheels 90Nm. (no lock fluid)

 

[Da]

Daz - Ill get a can of brake cleaner. Have you got any coppaslip, if not Ill get some (where from - halfrauds?), and did you do all that milarky with releasing the handbrake cables to readjust the rear brakes? PM me your address, Ive got maps of the area so no probs there.

Is sat at about 9.30am ok?

can't help with the coppaslip mate sorry, and as for the rears, I have never done them as mine has rear drums :dapprove:
I did the front discs on mine and it was a piece of pi55 but the rears...? :S

 

[alexst]

Daz - Ill have a crack with the rears first thing in the morning and see how I get on, bit worried about the lines.

Can i do all this work with the standard jack, i.e. one wheel at a time??

 

[Da]

ok mate no worries, as for the jack question I did mine 1 wheel at a time but using an axel stand to aid the jack. Would never work/bash under the car without a safety net

 

[TheCake]

Depending on the age of the old rear discs you may need a hub puller! I changed cup/darth/whatevercake's once and they wouldn't budge. A quick visit from Remsport sorted that out

I recall the phone call to BenR with the fronts...

Me "So i just hit them really hard"
Ben "yup"
Me "they won't come off"
Ben "hit them harder"
Me "oh ok"
Me "Chris, hit them harder"

lol.

RemSport was less than impressed with our selection of tools. Still, our Evo-mag esque photoshoot made up for it

 

[Da]

lol, my claw hammer was having no effect so I switched to a 2.5lb lump hammer :evil: soon had them off!

 

[Neil G]

Yeah...sometimes real brute force is needed to get the b**gers off!

 

[BrianR]

If your lucky, like most Clio rear wheel bearings, they will be nackered and fall off.

FWIW, do the fronts first, they are easy and will give your confidence a boost.

 

[CHRIS172CUP]

Also, you'll need brut force to undo the carrier bolts for the front calipers, especially if you're on the floor with no room for leverage!

I thought I was going to pull the car ontop of me when I did mine lol.

 

[CHRIS172CUP]

Also, you'll need brut force to undo the carrier bolts for the front calipers, especially if you're on the floor with no room for leverage!

I thought I was going to pull the car ontop of me when I did mine lol.

 

[BrianR]

Hi Chris, I think you are driving a 172 Hic-Cup :lolup:

 

[alexst]

Cheers everyone, getting two axle stands today for a tenner from halfrauds! Gonna do fronts first, might get one man bleed kit too... now gonna find that thread with the jacking points in it...

 

[edde]

Cheers everyone, getting two axle stands today for a tenner from halfrauds! Gonna do fronts first, might get one man bleed kit too... now gonna find that thread with the jacking points in it...

Mk2 Clio jacking points
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=166491

 

[Da]

how did you get on alex mate?

 

[alexst]

I am in the middle of doing it now, I dont have a handle for the torx thingy and I cant get the bloody calipers off, they are on sooooo tight!! I dont have an 18mm spanner in two sets of spanners i have and the adjustable one wont grip enough, I dont suppose you have either a torx screw or 18mm spanner do you, its up on axle stands and Im frustrated I cant get the calipers off, if you come over ill still get a crate of beer in mate... pretty please. Ill PM you my address.

 

[alexst]

bump...

 

[BrianR]

http://members.aol.com/quentncree/lehrer/beprepar.htm

 

[Fred@BTM]

Torx bit to get the discs off you mean??

18mm to undo the caliper/hub bolts??? (use a socket and rachet, a spanner won't do it)

 

[Da]

I have both mate, what size is the torx do you know?
just finding your address now mate.

 

[alexst]

see you in half an hour...

 

[alexst]

My performance was best at worst, I shall never make a good mechanic... and that is why I am a surveyor!

Brian R - very apt thank you...

Daz - I know your a man... but I love you!!!

I didnt have an 18mm socket, my kit only went up to 17mm... so fell at the first hurdle really. The axle stands I bought are now for sale, I paid £10 if someone wants to pick them up they can have them for £5!!

Thanks again Daz, I can't thank you enough...

Off to the garage for the rear discs goodridge lines and unfortunately there is a shed load of green grease in side the wheel and all over the big rubber bit at the end of the drive shaft that was not there a week ago!!!!

The hole in my pocket is growing...

Thanks everyone.

 

[BrianR]

Dont despair Alex, Your garage wont know anything about surveying, will they.

The grease thing sounds like you have a split CV boot. Good news is, if it was OK a week ago there shouldnt be any damage to the CV joint and a repair kit is all that should be required.

The have ways of fitting them that dont even need the shaft removing. So not too expensive.

Shame about not being able to complete the job, but hey,......at least you had a go and you were honest enough to admit defeat..................Well done,
:lolup:

 

[alexst]

Owned... :-(