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Help ASAP - Running problem



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  172 ph1 ASBO SLAYER
only just read this thread and i think some peoples probs are caused by the upstream lambda sensor, change it
 
  Exige S1 + Honda S1
Okay, new option for 'self-fix' is the lambda, anyone agree with benji?

ali, ava just want to do a diagnostic, he isnt really a mechanic.
cause its not starting its hard to get it anywhere
 
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Okay, new option for 'self-fix' is the lambda, anyone agree with benji?

ali, ava just want to do a diagnostic, he isnt really a mechanic.
cause its not starting its hard to get it anywhere

Give OMEX a ring or email them. He may be able to shed some light on it.

If you could get someone to go online to the OMEX you can monitor the feedback from the sensors and should be able to see any problems.
 
  M2 Competition
Okay, new option for 'self-fix' is the lambda, anyone agree with benji?

ali, ava just want to do a diagnostic, he isnt really a mechanic.
cause its not starting its hard to get it anywhere

But decatted how would this make much difference? I dont think with the way my decat is shaped the lambda's do anything. And surely this wouldnt account to it running on 2 cylinders?
 
  172 ph1 ASBO SLAYER
a faulty lambda would cause poor running and apparent missfire most often about 30secs after a cold start when some of the other s**t that runs the car from cold, start close down (air bypass, fuel enrichment ect) also if you have recently fitted a decat it is most likely because they never finish these things nicely and leave swarf and s**t in them. this gets onto the sensor and f***s it
however philthy, the car should at least start even with a faulty lambda sensor. however you could try unplugging it and starting the car?? the ecu will think its faulty and resort to a generic reading. these readings usually err to the rich side too to be safe
 
  clio 1.6 16v 2001
Did you change the leads?

Another very long shot is a collapsed baffle in the exhaust.
Heard of this before on fiestas before.
Is it a new exhaust? Was it fitted using silicone jointing compound?
Apparently this kills lambda sensors stone dead!
Still sounds like electrical/sensor problem though.
Were the connectors on the tdc in good nick.
It might be worth chopping them out and soldering them.
Don't give up.
You'll feel like a star when you find the problem :)

Obelix
 
  Exige S1 + Honda S1
the car has been running with these modifications for a while now, like 12 months so its a new thing.

I dont think its the lambda as it only happend when it was warm.

arrrggggggggggghhhhhhhh
 
  172 ph1 ASBO SLAYER
yeah but on the 172 its the same sensor for the gauge and ecu, so if the gauge is working ok.... thats not to say its not got a wiring fault tho
 
  M2 Competition
the car has been running with these modifications for a while now, like 12 months so its a new thing.

I dont think its the lambda as it only happend when it was warm.

arrrggggggggggghhhhhhhh

Mine happens when the car is cold. Especially on wet mornings. After about ten minutes the problem dies away.

Any clues?
 
  Exige S1 + Honda S1
yours sounds like bad contacts on the leads/coilpack area. If you put electrical contact gel stuff on it it will go away.
 
  Exige S1 + Honda S1
its FIXED!!!

it was the fuel cut off switch (red rubber top on it) which was broken, it wouldnt stay down. And also the white wiring loom next to the fuses was loose, which caused the fuel pump to be intermittant because of a bad connection.

something so simple as well, cant explain how happy i was when it started haha
 
  Exige S1 + Honda S1
okay not fixed...

took it out again and it started to stutter and run on 2 every 5 mins for a few seconds...

i think its the fuel relay needs replaced
 
  M2 Competition
yours sounds like bad contacts on the leads/coilpack area. If you put electrical contact gel stuff on it it will go away.

Whats contact gel? How do i do that?

Is so annoying, as it could be so many things :( want to put the car up for sale, but need to sort out what the problem is and fix it properly first.
 
  Exige S1 + Honda S1
well i just took mine for a wee spin (5-10miles) and used quarter of a tank running on 2 cylinders most of the time....

im banging my head against the wall now.

dan, take the leads off the coil pack and spray them (one at a time so you dont lose where they went) and also the connector going into the coil pack
 
M

mini-valver

So, what have you changed?
Make a list and then see what is left, lol
 
  Mondeo TDCI 130
Need help with this from experts, picked up car last week and there was not a single problem until last night-

The car (tuned 172) was missing a beat at lows revs when hot and cold, then it started to misfire on tickover(with loud bangs)

After misfiring it started to run on 2 cylinders when I got it going. It then ran perfect on 4 cylinders for about a mile.

After that it wouldnt start right almost always running on 2. Now it wont start everytime and when it does it either misfires or runs on 2 cyclinders then dies.

I got it started earlier but the revs shot up to 4k and stayed there. Now it wont even fire up

The car has Omex ECU, it is almost like it has reset itself and lost its mapping.
It has had new coil pack/spark plugs/leads in the last 10k miles.

Anyone have any ideas?!?

Wiring loom fault?? broken/rubbed wire somewhere? but you could look for that forever!!!
 
  Exige S1 + Honda S1
coilpack, sparks tdc sensor and soon to be leads

edit- the cars sits at 2k revs when idling now(when its on 4 cyl) its obv very running rich as it used quarter of a tank in 10 miles.

when sensors effect fuel? I know the lambda does, il disconnect that tomo to see if it helps

air temp sensor?
 
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M

mini-valver

Coolant temp sensor does. Check the wiring to it and replace it. It enables the cold start map and if it is'nt working will tell the ECU it's always cold and throw loads of fuel in, hence the rich running.
 
  Lionel Richie
philthy's car should have 2 coolant sensors, the omex one SHOULD be before the thermostat (engine side), and the renault one can go anywhere in the cooling system
 
M

mini-valver

I have no idea how the OMEX loom works so I'll step away from the table ;)
 
  M2 Competition
Right, its cold outside, need to escape the house for a bit so will go for a drive and let you know how it fares...
 
M

mini-valver

If it's fine in the cold but when it's up to temp hesitates and trys to cut out when you touch the throttle I'd go with coolant temp sensor.
 
M

mini-valver

Would'nt the OMEX just pick up the signal and act on it? Which sensor does it use? It's own or the Renault one? MAybe one has failed and is causing the OMEX to confuse itself.....
 
  Lionel Richie
Would'nt the OMEX just pick up the signal and act on it? Which sensor does it use? It's own or the Renault one? MAybe one has failed and is causing the OMEX to confuse itself.....

the omex ecu uses the omex CTS (which as i said should be on the engine side of the thermostat, so it can adjust the fueling as the car warms up from cold)

the sensors have to be calibrated

this is done in the ecu settings, you first take an ambient air temp reading and enter this into the software (so thats you're baseline reading for the temp sensor to work from) then you put the sensor (connected to the loom) into a container of boiling water and then enter the temperature into the software
 
M

mini-valver

Have you had it plugged in Dan??

What would cause it to un-calibrate itself though Fred?
 
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