Help, in the middle of changing suspension - which way round?

[Austin-182]

Im removing coilovers and replacing with standard set up but want to double check im doing it right.

Im on with the rears first. Do you know which way round the springs go as the look identicle both ways?

And does rubber bit sit on bottom or top?

Massive thanks

 

[Austin-182]

 

[Tony Hunter]

Rubber on the bottom, paint code to the top, no t that it matters much.

 

[Jekyll]

Some have rubbers on both ends of the springs.

 

[Tony Hunter]

Some have rubbers on both ends of the springs.

Really, never seen those.

 

[JB21]

The 182 FF has rubbers on both ends making it a nightmare getting them in and out on your own, I'll lose the top one next time they're out.

 

[Austin-182]

Cheers all. Yes mine have 2 rubbers on each spring too.

 

[Austin-182]

Are the fronts the correct way or do the springs need flipping?

 

[JB21]

They look right to me, narrow end at the top.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Fronts are correct, just make sure the springs are seated correctly in the top and bottom plates.

 

[Jekyll]

They can only go one way. The top of the spring should be snug in the top shock plate so narrow towards the top.

As long as the spring fits perfectly in the grooves you'll be fine. If it's out of the cup slightly, you'll have a boingy noise when turning as it's not correctly fitted.

 

[JB21]

Have fun getting those rears in with both rubbers on, I had to get the missus to stand on the rear beam/hub to get them in and that was even a struggle.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Have fun getting those rears in with both rubbers on, I had to get the missus to stand on the rear beam/hub to get them in and that was even a struggle.

I've never had a problem...

Stick the top rubbers onto the body first, and with the lower shock bolts out the beam will drop (support with a jack) low enough to get the springs in.

Raise it back up with the jack and fit the bolts.

 

[JB21]

I've never had a problem...

Stick the top rubbers onto the body first, and with the lower shock bolts out the beam will drop (support with a jack) low enough to get the springs in.

Raise it back up with the jack and fit the bolts.

Not in my case, even with the bolts out and beam and hub hanging down freely there was no chance they where going in without a bit of pressure on the beam/hub.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Not in my case, even with the bolts out and beam and hub hanging down freely there was no chance they where going in without a bit of pressure on the beam/hub.

Interesting one that is mate.

 

[JB21]

Interesting one that is mate.

Could it be due to cup v non cup hubs?

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Could it be due to cup v non cup hubs?

We are on about the rear now aren't we?

 

[JB21]

We are on about the rear now aren't we?

Lol yeah.

 

[Jekyll]

I've never had a problem with both rubbers on one spring, and i do it like James said.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Lol yeah.

Lol good. I'm not sure if the rear beam differs between Cup and Non Cup, it's just the Cup has a thicker stub axle block iirc.

That shouldn't effect why the beam wouldn't drop low enough to fit/remove the springs.

 

[JB21]

Lol good. I'm not sure if the rear beam differs between Cup and Non Cup, it's just the Cup has a thicker stub axle block iirc.

That shouldn't effect why the beam wouldn't drop low enough to fit/remove the springs.

I'll just put it down to a nice tight rear end then, FLOL!

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

I'll just put it down to a nice tight rear end then, FLOL!

Nowt wrong with that 😂

 

[Austin-182]

How do i remove these thing!?!?!?!?

 

[flebay]

Flat head screwdriver,or pry bar in between beam and adjuster and use hammer to open the gap.

 

[Austin-182]

Flat head screwdriver,or pry bar in between beam and adjuster and use hammer to open the gap.

Thanks. Is it not screwed on from underneath?

 

[Austin-182]

Does this bolt need to come out?

 

[DannyR]

Yes and it'll probably require some heat to get it off too

 

[Austin-182]

Yes and it'll probably require some heat to get it off too

Had it heated with a blow torch and it will still not move! Not sure what to do now

 

[Jekyll]

I presume your removing your coilovers fully and discarding them? If you, you could grind the head and washer off and knock the bolt through that way.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

That's a really shite design, the bolt should be more substantial than that.

That's only coming out one way I reckon.

 

[Austin-182]

We finally got it! Heated again and used a long bar with allen key attachment and it finally cracked loose.

 

[Austin-182]

I presume your removing your coilovers fully and discarding them? If you, you could grind the head and washer off and knock the bolt through that way.

Yea mate, completely removing them. It failed the MOT for the fronts. I have been wanting to go back to standard for a while so this has spurred me on to have to actually do it. First time I have ever done it.

 

[DannyR]

That's a really shite design, the bolt should be more substantial than that.

That's only coming out one way I reckon.

Why? They stay on with sheer pressure.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Why? They stay on with sheer pressure.

I meant the bolt being an Allen socket. Mine has a 17mm hex bolt head, so I can get my impact gun on it.

 

[STEVE.M]

Should have been assembled with copperslip grease.

 

[DannyR]

Should have been assembled with copperslip grease.

Makes no difference as it is that tight, copper greased all of mine and all have needed heat to get off.

 

[STEVE.M]

Makes no difference as it is that tight, copper greased all of mine and all have needed heat to get off.

It should have been applied on assembly years ago.It`s no good applying it externally like Volterole and hope its going to ease your aching joints.

 

[DannyR]

It should have been applied on assembly years ago.It`s no good applying it externally like Volterole and hope its going to ease your aching joints.

I've clearly missed your point?

 

[DannyR]

Now I'm a bit more awake did you think I was copper greasing to get them off?!?

No, the adjusted was greased underneath but tolerances are so tight that it all comes off the surface.

 

[Austin-182]

Does this look normal? You can see the silver bar that goes into the damper.