Hello clio sport community. After number of years fancying these cars and spending nights reading your posts, I decided to buy one as well. After few weeks searching, I bought x reg clio sport in silver with clutch release bearing failure. At the time of purchase, gearbox was already a part from engine, so I could not listen to the engine. After five months of bad weather, I started sorting out the car: fitted new clutch kit, managed to put everything back together, because it was a previous owner, who took it apart, then a time came to start the car and enjoy it driving and doing some mods, I had in my plans, but unfortunately id did not start. So:
All electrics are working: inside, lights, starter motor, fuel pressure relay.
Engine is turning over, you can keep trying as long as you want, but it would not start.
First thing I have noticed, when you unlock the car with pressing the button on the key, driver side indicator lights would stay solid. So I thought it will be something to do with car security, had a look in the engine bay and found two black cables hanging down of alarm siren, chased other cables,going to the siren, and noticed, that connections are not standard (like it came from factory). They were soldered and taped up. I removed the siren and all cables going to it by chasing them down, undoing the tape and cutting of, where they were soldered to original car cables, and isolated (hazard lights switch, central locking switch, ignition barrel, earth, interior light, boot light and motion sensors)
After, driver side indicators were not staying constantly on, but car would still not start.
Reverse lights are on after switching on ignition. (Reverse light sensor in the gear box has earth and power coming to it, no matter what gear is selected)
When ignition is OFF, immobilizer red light (middle of instrument cluster) is flashing one second intervals. When you switch on ignition, the light flashes twice or so and then it STOPS.
Bearing in mind, that car was sitting round for five months with disconnected battery, I tried the following:
Switch on ignition, wait until lights disappear on dash, switch of ignition, try start straight away
Scratch car key to the ground (trying to earthen it)
Switch on ignition, disconnect battery, wait 10 min, connect battery back, switch of ignition, try to start
Press central locking button , push down accelerator pedal at same time for 10 - 15 seconds. Release button and pedal.Press pedal and start car
Switch on ignition, after 10 min. switch of and then try to start
Checked ECU, using Launch diagnostics tool, following errors appeared:
DF012 - Injection -AC connection
DF014 - Coded line circuit
DF044 - Engine immobilizer line fault
ECU has been taken out from black metal protection, had a look for any obvious damage to the wiring loom, could not see any
Cleaned contacts and fuses in engine bay fuse box, swapped round relays, could hear them working ( fuel pressure and idle control valve), every relay had two contacts with power coming to them
Inside left wing checked canister (fuel breather), no damage to cables
Cleaned 4 earth cables
Using ECU diagram, checked (port:3, 33, 15,73, 75, 28 for earth (fine) and port: 30, 29, 66 power cables (fine)). According to my basic 12V tester:
Port 65 has no power or earth in the cable
Port 74 has less then 12V in the cable (light in tester is hard to see) and every time you touch it the idle control valve would "click".
If ignition is left on, the idle control valve makes "clicking" in uneven intervals and valve gets hot.
Obviously spark plug has been taken out to see, if there is spark. Spark cable checked for damage - nothing.
Coil pack has 4 contacts, but only 3 wires are connecting to it. When disconnected the plug First time, there was one cable with earth, one cable with power and one cable showed no signs. Now, after going through number of checks, there is no power, coming to the coil pack any more.
When all THREE wires are plugged in to the coil pack and I check, what is happening in the plug, tester shows ALL three having earth.
When I switch on ignition, all lights go on in instrument cluster, after little while stay battery, oil pressure and stop lights, few seconds later air bag and service lights come back on.
Next thing to do could be to get security code from Renault or get that plug, which goes to diagnostics socket and unlocks immobilizer.
That is basically all, what I managed to do, using my basic skills and google, I really hope, that I will manage to get my clio going. Even after nearly one week of negative emotions, I still like my car and hope, that there are people, who could advise me, how to get it going.
All electrics are working: inside, lights, starter motor, fuel pressure relay.
Engine is turning over, you can keep trying as long as you want, but it would not start.
First thing I have noticed, when you unlock the car with pressing the button on the key, driver side indicator lights would stay solid. So I thought it will be something to do with car security, had a look in the engine bay and found two black cables hanging down of alarm siren, chased other cables,going to the siren, and noticed, that connections are not standard (like it came from factory). They were soldered and taped up. I removed the siren and all cables going to it by chasing them down, undoing the tape and cutting of, where they were soldered to original car cables, and isolated (hazard lights switch, central locking switch, ignition barrel, earth, interior light, boot light and motion sensors)
After, driver side indicators were not staying constantly on, but car would still not start.
Reverse lights are on after switching on ignition. (Reverse light sensor in the gear box has earth and power coming to it, no matter what gear is selected)
When ignition is OFF, immobilizer red light (middle of instrument cluster) is flashing one second intervals. When you switch on ignition, the light flashes twice or so and then it STOPS.
Bearing in mind, that car was sitting round for five months with disconnected battery, I tried the following:
Switch on ignition, wait until lights disappear on dash, switch of ignition, try start straight away
Scratch car key to the ground (trying to earthen it)
Switch on ignition, disconnect battery, wait 10 min, connect battery back, switch of ignition, try to start
Press central locking button , push down accelerator pedal at same time for 10 - 15 seconds. Release button and pedal.Press pedal and start car
Switch on ignition, after 10 min. switch of and then try to start
Checked ECU, using Launch diagnostics tool, following errors appeared:
DF012 - Injection -AC connection
DF014 - Coded line circuit
DF044 - Engine immobilizer line fault
ECU has been taken out from black metal protection, had a look for any obvious damage to the wiring loom, could not see any
Cleaned contacts and fuses in engine bay fuse box, swapped round relays, could hear them working ( fuel pressure and idle control valve), every relay had two contacts with power coming to them
Inside left wing checked canister (fuel breather), no damage to cables
Cleaned 4 earth cables
Using ECU diagram, checked (port:3, 33, 15,73, 75, 28 for earth (fine) and port: 30, 29, 66 power cables (fine)). According to my basic 12V tester:
Port 65 has no power or earth in the cable
Port 74 has less then 12V in the cable (light in tester is hard to see) and every time you touch it the idle control valve would "click".
If ignition is left on, the idle control valve makes "clicking" in uneven intervals and valve gets hot.
Obviously spark plug has been taken out to see, if there is spark. Spark cable checked for damage - nothing.
Coil pack has 4 contacts, but only 3 wires are connecting to it. When disconnected the plug First time, there was one cable with earth, one cable with power and one cable showed no signs. Now, after going through number of checks, there is no power, coming to the coil pack any more.
When all THREE wires are plugged in to the coil pack and I check, what is happening in the plug, tester shows ALL three having earth.
When I switch on ignition, all lights go on in instrument cluster, after little while stay battery, oil pressure and stop lights, few seconds later air bag and service lights come back on.
Next thing to do could be to get security code from Renault or get that plug, which goes to diagnostics socket and unlocks immobilizer.
That is basically all, what I managed to do, using my basic skills and google, I really hope, that I will manage to get my clio going. Even after nearly one week of negative emotions, I still like my car and hope, that there are people, who could advise me, how to get it going.
