Help - swapped out Coilovers, camber hugely out

[Rawhide]

Hi, I installed some Bilstein Coilovers today and the install went fine. However I discovered my car was running V-maxx Coilovers already and it would appear the top suspension bolt has a cam on it which I guess is a basic camber adjustment. The bilsteins just use a regular bolt.

The bilsteins were almost new, bought from here. I also replaced the top mounts with new kits as well.

When the car was dropped the ride height has only changed about 2cm either side. However the camber is hugely out. It's very visible. The car is undriveable. I don't have a Coilovers spanner and stupidly assumed that as the kits was used it might have been setup right. I think that car had solid top mounts whereas I am using the OEM top mount.

I will get the car to a specialist for alignment ASAP but is there anything I could do for now?

I think the top bolt being a camber adjustable bolt from the V-Max's kit won't help but it's well torqued up so I don't think that's the only reason.

I will have a pro set it up but would welcome some DIY help to get it a bit safer to drive to the specialist.

 

[Rawhide]

http://50.6.73.68/picit/1433621294.9623.iPicit.jpg

Here is what I'm talking about. I think my only options are to raise the rideheight or adjust the control arms. I can't swap the bolt until next week

 

[smac4494]

Is the example image the same on the offside? Also are you sure the cam was the only camber part in the setup?

It's common practice to get the wheels aligned after changing the suspension set up

 

[Rawhide]

Yes - they are both like that. I was expecting to get alignment done but I assumed it would be ok for a few miles whilst the setup beds in. I assumed swapping coilover for coilover the setting would be close enough.

 

[smac4494]

Nah coil overs can be very different. Learnt that the hard way myself. Cant help much without seeing the bolts but I'm guessing it's something to do with the camber bolt

 

[mgd]

Jack the car up

Loosen the 2 bolts that hold the strut to the hub, pull the top of the brake disk back towards you, and get someone to tighten the 2 nuts whilst holding the disk in that position.

The top bolt from memory has an offset washer, so you may need to turn this whilst pulling back in the disk to get the camber closer to neutral.

Put wheel back on and drop the car down to see how the camber is looking after that

 

[dann2707]

Could you not borrow the other non-camber bolt from the other side, fit both standard bolts in the hub then tighten the bottom one up so it's sturdy, then slide a camber bolt in so that it doesn't affect the hub position, then nip that one up so it's solid. Then remove the non-camber bolt from that hub and borrow that for the other side and rinse and repeat?

I know it's long winded but at least you'd have standard camber then.

 

[Rawhide]

Thanks to all for responding. The camber bolt on the offside has a split washer so it's not helping much anyway.

Dan - I see you have the same Bilsteins. Can you confirm they use the OEM bolts and both bolts are identical? (No camber bolts)

Also while I'm asking the rear I think I fitted fine. However there was only one thin Renault rubber 'hat' which I fitted between the seat and the chassis. The spring only goes on one way and it says Bilstein the correct way. However other setups I've seen have two rubber hats (one for the rear as well) and the adjuster sits on the control arm. Which is correct?

My plan is to get to Renault tomorrow and pick up some bolts and see if that gets it back into line. The camber bolts are knackered and not designed for this kit so anything I do would be temporary. it's not a job I want to do three times!

 

[dann2707]

Yeah I've got the same coilovers, standard oem bolts are fine but I recommend eibach camber bolts and getting them set up with 2 degrees of negative camber.

Also I did away with the rubber hats completely, wanted more lows and it didn't induce knocking at all.

 

[Paprika123]

When I fitted Bilsteins to my Trophy they needed camber bolts as the wheels sat like your picture.

 

[Rawhide]

I'm not looking to lower dramatically (if anything slightly raise) my car and I do a lot of motorway work. I want a good fast road car rather than track car. It's sounding like I'd be wasting my time buying OEM bolts and should get the Eiback camber bolts instead. What is the default camber setting for a 182 with cup pack?

 

[Gus]

Jack the car up

Loosen the 2 bolts that hold the strut to the hub, pull the top of the brake disk back towards you, and get someone to tighten the 2 nuts whilst holding the disk in that position.

The top bolt from memory has an offset washer, so you may need to turn this whilst pulling back in the disk to get the camber closer to neutral.

Put wheel back on and drop the car down to see how the camber is looking after that

I would do this.
I have a set of standard bolts (x4) if you need some - but probably quicker to nip down to Renault tomorrow.
I have the same car and the same bilsteins using standard bolts and its fine - no camber at all. From your pic it deffo looks like your problem is camber bolts. Top mount should be fine.

 

[Rawhide]

Hi, I managed to pull the hubs out and get the car drivable. New suspension bolts from Renault and a setup by a specialist and the car is running perfectly now. The camber was set at around 1.8 (I was aiming for 1.75) The damping seems so much better than the V-Maxx units. The ride quality is better than my Trophy on it's refurbed Sachs but the turn in is not as quick. This seems absolutley what I would ask for as a road car so I'm very happy now
I will raise the rear slightly and get the arch liners back in. Hopefully no rubbing but if I do I will raise the front slightly.