High CR and Spark Plugs

[rich83]

Anyone running cooler grade plugs on a high CR motor? I think the 1x2 uses an NGK '6' grade so I would assume you guys would be running 7's now?
The mk3 uses 7's as stock, and I'm now running 12.5:1 so debating to switch to 8's.

cheers

 

[NorthloopCup]

Anyone running cooler grade plugs on a high CR motor? I think the 1x2 uses an NGK '6' grade so I would assume you guys would be running 7's now?
The mk3 uses 7's as stock, and I'm now running 12.5:1 so debating to switch to 8's.

cheers

R3 maxi's ran oe plugs and the maxi evo ran some fancy platinum ones.
I'll be running the oe items in mine unless they prove to be an issue.

 

[rich83]

Ok good to know, I was thinking I would up the grade to a 7, but when I checked on the OE fitment of course they are already a 7. Maybe just stick with the trusy ol' BKR7EIX but have seen some high CR K20's using 8's.

While you're reading this, presume if I convert the tappet to a solid it's a world of ballache checking clearances, and roughly evey year/10k?
Have you ever come across a fancy rocker for these engines that could facilitate checking but whilst still keeping the cams and timing locked? Would an F7R ladder and rocker cover setup fit?

 

[NorthloopCup]

Ok good to know, I was thinking I would up the grade to a 7, but when I checked on the OE fitment of course they are already a 7. Maybe just stick with the trusy ol' BKR7EIX but have seen some high CR K20's using 8's.

While you're reading this, presume if I convert the tappet to a solid it's a world of ballache checking clearances, and roughly evey year/10k?
Have you ever come across a fancy rocker for these engines that could facilitate checking but whilst still keeping the cams and timing locked? Would an F7R ladder and rocker cover setup fit?

NGK R or NGK R9 is the option whatever grade they are mate.

Yeah if you convert to solid lifter top end it'll mean misery. Lol! I'll convert to the R3 maxi evo setup if I go that route. You could always buy the catcams kit that locks the cams in place so you can dial them in properly with a dti.
No cam covers other than the ones used on the sodemo touring car engines mate. These had access holes in them and also ran bearing shells on the cams!! ££££££££'s

 

[rich83]

Interesting, I will have a look at these Sodemo ones, but that name I associate with a bending over (price I mean, not just because of the way it sounds!!!).

You see I was always thinking the next step would be to run solid lifters and VVT delete with big cams. But frankly solid lifters seem a lot of hassel now and I think I can make the right power without running them.
My current 403's I now believe don't need pistons, the exh cam has less total lift than 402's and only very minor extra duration, there is also a very big jump in the lift on the exh cam when going up 1 cam to 404's. It is the biggest jump by far across the entire range which leads me to belive the 403 is designed to stay on stock pistons as it is valve springs too. 404's again are the first in the range needing stiffer springs (which I have installed alread), so I think that is the cam I should have ran from day 1.

Because of the piston thing I decided to do some sums to work out dynamic compression ratio etc, short of it is not enough overlap on the 403's and the DCR is remaining maybe too high and perhaps not allowing quite enough spark advance to make the power I was expecting.
So pretty sure running 404's will make a nice improvement and of course still easily within the confines of a hyd lifter spec cam, and I 'expect' them to idle fine, maybe raised a bit.

The only thing is maybe I should just go straight to ITB's and run the 405's....?!!! I don't think 405's would idle for s**t on a plenum though! Interesting that Xrally run a maximum of 12.2mm lift on hyd's, at 12.5mm they say you need a solid tappet. - So it rules out 406's which have 12.2mm on the inlet, I don't want to operate on the line.

So 404's or 405's??? TDF were making 240bhp on ITB's with 404's.

 

[NorthloopCup]

Interesting, I will have a look at these Sodemo ones, but that name I associate with a bending over (price I mean, not just because of the way it sounds!!!).

You see I was always thinking the next step would be to run solid lifters and VVT delete with big cams. But frankly solid lifters seem a lot of hassel now and I think I can make the right power without running them.
My current 403's I now believe don't need pistons, the exh cam has less total lift than 402's and only very minor extra duration, there is also a very big jump in the lift on the exh cam when going up 1 cam to 404's. It is the biggest jump by far across the entire range which leads me to belive the 403 is designed to stay on stock pistons as it is valve springs too. 404's again are the first in the range needing stiffer springs (which I have installed alread), so I think that is the cam I should have ran from day 1.

Because of the piston thing I decided to do some sums to work out dynamic compression ratio etc, short of it is not enough overlap on the 403's and the DCR is remaining maybe too high and perhaps not allowing quite enough spark advance to make the power I was expecting.
So pretty sure running 404's will make a nice improvement and of course still easily within the confines of a hyd lifter spec cam, and I 'expect' them to idle fine, maybe raised a bit.

The only thing is maybe I should just go straight to ITB's and run the 405's....?!!! I don't think 405's would idle for s**t on a plenum though! Interesting that Xrally run a maximum of 12.2mm lift on hyd's, at 12.5mm they say you need a solid tappet. - So it rules out 406's which have 12.2mm on the inlet, I don't want to operate on the line.

So 404's or 405's??? TDF were making 240bhp on ITB's with 404's.

This is why once the R3 maxi parts became available I jumped on them. It just made sense as it gave me the opportunity to get the power level I'd like without the need to mess and faff with the trial and error route. Yes it cost, but it's also proven.
I'm pretty sure R3 maxi evo ran in the regions of 13mm of lift as well! Lol!

If I decide I want more power, or I want to play with it I'll upgrade to the maxi evo stuff. Again, it'll cost, but it's proven to work.

 

[rich83]

Half the fun though is in the research and learning though, so just buying an R3 kit is cheating
Though I could buy the R3 cams, without measurements it's unlikely. Sylvain from Xrally said R3's can make as little as 210bhp, and the R3 Evo's around 235bhp. When's yours going to be turning over and mapped??

 

[NorthloopCup]

Half the fun though is in the research and learning though, so just buying an R3 kit is cheating :wink:
Though I could buy the R3 cams, without measurements it's unlikely. Sylvain from Xrally said R3's can make as little as 210bhp, and the R3 Evo's around 235bhp. When's yours going to be turning over and mapped??

It maybe cheating, but I guarantee you 100% that you wouldn't have turned it down for the price I paid! :wink:

Yeah I've heard that about them before tbh mate, but when the aim of mine was to break 200hp I'm not really bothered what it makes. Not sure when it'll be up and running tbh mate. Got a few bits and pieces to do before I can get cracking with it again atm. No rush for me.

 

[BRT Motorsport]

maxi evo plug

NGK RACING SPARK PLUG R6601-9 R666019 Stock No. 7885

 

[BRT Motorsport]

pic

 

[rich83]

Yeah if you got it all for cheap no brainer. like you say it's a compelling option anyway really.


Cheers for the plug info Paul, I'll look in to them when I'm back.

 

[sluggy]

Changing standard plugs to these would it make any difference I've got a 182