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hub question



i've got a 2nd hand driveshaft and hub. only problem is the driveshaft is bent but the hub is in good condition.i'm going to keep my old driveshaft and just swap the hub over.
it's on a 1.2 16v 52 plate.problem is that number one the bolt is tight as fook but will manage to get this of somehow.the manual says these are torques to 280nm,i havn't got a torque wrench in this range and it would cost me £70.i dont want to run the risk of causing damage to the bearings by overtightening it or leaving it to loose.if anybody on here have changed their hubs have the torqued up the bolts or just tightened them?
i know most people you just make sure their FT but have always been told to torque hub bolts and spark plugs,any opinions?
 
You can get wrench for less than £70 I think I paid £40 or so for mine and its a decient one.

280NM is a lot most wrechcn won't go that high I'd just use a breakers bar when you use a proper toriqque bar you'll relaise how tight 200Nm is so an idea what 280 should be. Its not diffuclt to get off just get a breakers bar it makes it so much easier.

I just use the torque wrench and give it a bit more on the breakers bar just be careful the breakers bar if yo give it some can crached cheap nut sets.
 
their enko type nuts afaik.the torque wrench i've got isn't even close to 200nm.the one i'd have to buy is a 3/4 inch one and almost 2 foot long so basically all i could ever use it for is these bolts,my local tool place can't seem to get one for cheaper.
to give me a rough idea,when these are tight when turning with a breaker bar how many more turns am i looking at for 280nm edde?
 
  S2000
I had the same problem when refitting my old hub. I phoned a few garages to ask if they would torque it up for me and they all, without fail, said just to do it up as tight as I can with a breaker bar as they don't bother to torque them up when they do them. They only torque them up if its a tapered bearing. I just did it up as tight as I possibly could with a breaker bar and it's been fine for about 5000 miles now.
 

G_F

  BMW M3 & Williams 3
the difference from 200Nm to 280Nm wont be anyware near a full turn i would imagine, maybe a couple of mm, never been that high though to be honest, jesus wept, my torque wrench maxes out at 200, i paid 55 notes for that.

Never had the hub off my cup, but on my rsi the axel nut was only 180Nm, why so high for newer cars?
 
it is tapered bearings in the mk2 clios though isn't it?i'm going to do everything i can to try and get someone to torque it up,in my understanding if it's overtorqued it could ruin the bearing,guessing this as it says in the manual you can't use the method of tightening the hub nut to elimate play in the bearing.i've seen seat ibiza hub nuts have about 300nm of torque put into them, the wrench would be an investment might even see if it's possible to hire one
 
cliobuyer said:
Ed, do Cups have different hubs to normal 172s?
yep different bearings you can swop them there interchangable but the Cup ones are stronger I guess to deal with the extra camber they run.
 
whats the biggest killer of bearings would you say?i've also got a new hub for the driver side and when i put it on it feels worse than the old one which has done 100k, the scrappys are bad for leaving theirs cars on the ground with no wheels,the water had got to most of the bolts so i'm assuming its got to the bearing too?have you heard of bearings needing replaced without them actually making any grumbling noises?
 
tidyclio said:
whats the biggest killer of bearings would you say?i've also got a new hub for the driver side and when i put it on it feels worse than the old one which has done 100k, the scrappys are bad for leaving theirs cars on the ground with no wheels,the water had got to most of the bolts so i'm assuming its got to the bearing too?have you heard of bearings needing replaced without them actually making any grumbling noises?
Abuse and camber plays a huge effect but as you said rust etc will also kill them.
 
the wheel bearings are £25 each and they need pressed in,i can save money getting a complete 2nd hand hub it's just hard to tell until it's fitted what condition their in.thought about buying new but one side is £90 and the other near £150 so that's out!i'm getting the camber corrected on monday and was asking because ideally i'd like to have to new hubs on for then but if i can't do it myself it doesn't look like it. so a bit of topic but obviously the position these camber bolts are tightened in will be what sets the camber,will i be able to simply mark the bolt and the position of it on the shock and refit it when i change the hub or will it need reset at the garage?
 
  Turbos.
edde said:
yep different bearings you can swop them there interchangable but the Cup ones are stronger I guess to deal with the extra camber they run.

Cool. Don't suppose you know the differing part no.s?
 


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