welshname
ClioSport Club Member
LOL didnt spot that. and thats cheap. you can ask around £300 for a full set if im not mistaken? or £250?
Good luck with the project but i think i would go on race cars direct and get a race prepared car but thats me.GOOD LUCK MATE
yeah Mark, 15's will be lighter and imo the car handles better on them on track. You have to use Dunlops? That's a random reg, but they probably sponsor it and make that a requirement I guess. These are just as good as r888's. Not sure what their longevity is like though. I'm sure they would last longer than slicks though. It's all doing to depend on your fuel load at the end of the day. Any thoughts on tank size and mounting/position yet?
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Produ...oogle&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Motorsport
Chris and Nicks cars look nice. Are they fully race spec'd DIY jobbies? You might struggle if you're using them for spares though as a few things vary on the ph1. At least you got the 182 without cup packs, so suspension and hubs are the same. I think the drivetrain is the same also, if not very similar, but don't quote me on that.
We have the R-Sport switch panels in stock as we've swapped so many out for membrane panels now.
If you buy an X85 CC car you still need to find 15K - 20K to make it an endurance car so its not as cost effective as it first seems. There's an interview between VBH and myself floating about somewhere where I discuss the costs of a proper endurance X85 but summing up to run it as a pro car for a 24 hr it's £30K of costs and another £60K to build one from a new X85. A standard X85 is not a competitive 24hr car unfortunately.
Different as in more or less to LTL?
Can you do me the dash too?
What manual steering rack will fit on this 182?
good luck with this, would be interesting to see how it goes, as some have said deep pockets will be needed to achieve the 250 - 200 bhp your looking for without boost, but then again youve got an aston so your pockets are deeper than most and if your sharing the costs out between 3 or 4 of you its not too bad. all looking good so far, keep us all updated as how your getting on
What manual steering rack will fit on this 182?
I still maintain a good 230bhp endurance spec engine is what you want for this. It'll be bomb proof for circa 8K KMs, have excellent response, a good fuel burn rate and is achievable for sensible costs (built, dyno'd and in the car with loom and ECU for circa £7K). Essentially you're looking at a built bottom end with a sensible cylinder head spec, sensible cams, nice exhaust manifold and a good induction/filtration setup. More importantly all those bits are fairly off the shelf so you don't get into the massive cost issues that come with producing bespoke components for the engine package and even more importantly you aren't at the mercy of the lead times to produce more should you managed to break an engine.
I still maintain a good 230bhp endurance spec engine is what you want for this. It'll be bomb proof for circa 8K KMs, have excellent response, a good fuel burn rate and is achievable for sensible costs (built, dyno'd and in the car with loom and ECU for circa £7K). Essentially you're looking at a built bottom end with a sensible cylinder head spec, sensible cams, nice exhaust manifold and a good induction/filtration setup. More importantly all those bits are fairly off the shelf so you don't get into the massive cost issues that come with producing bespoke components for the engine package and even more importantly you aren't at the mercy of the lead times to produce more should you managed to break an engine.
The dash is very limitied, it's a crippled MM DDU unit so doesn't have 90% of the functionality of the retail version. It's also TFT so you can't see it in direct sunlight. Much better option is the GEMS OLED units which are fantastic and we have used them in an OEM and two motorsport projects last quarter with great success.
Regarding steering rack etc. best bet would be to use the DCI rack and fit it out with a DC Electronics EPAS system to provide power assistance. We've found them extremely reliable in motorsport use and you WILL want some form of PAS if you're doing 2 - 3 hour stints!! You'll have slightly more lock to lock but with the EPAS you still regain the ability to "chuck" the wheel to catch an oversteer moment LOL
What sort of exhaust mani you refering to Matt?
You thinking 421's with bigger lifters?
It might be worth getting the head CNC'd properly
No throttle bodies then?
Stock 421 would be fine imo.
Do you mean uprated valve springs??
Nothing wrong with hand working a cylinder head. If I was having one done it would be via APD.
What series are you competing in to gain the six signatures you need to be able to enter the 24? Good luck with the build!
Very good point.
I would reiterate what others have said about buying something already built, but you're past the point of no return now. I fear you may get to a point in the build though, where you really can't face another weekend in a garage on your back covered in grease with a build deadline looming, and turning the project over to company to complete. I've been there.
Equally, I fear you may end up with uncompetitive car at the end of your build. Again, I've been there, first time builds are deceptively hard to make competitive for the novice.
However, you seem to have a very positive attitude towards it, and I wish you the best of luck. Listen hard to advice sent your way, but take everything with a pinch of salt.
What sort of exhaust mani you refering to Matt? You thinking 421's with bigger lifters?
It might be worth getting the head CNC'd properly (i know a guy, but you'll be looking at £700+VAT) to get a bit more power and efficience out for the engine. Plus while it's all in bits you don't need to worry about taking it to bits
No throttle bodies then?
Yeah uprated springs Tom, but do the not require bigger lifters?
CNC would be better you can't argue with that surely? I'm sure hand work would make a difference, but it's going to be nowhere near as accurate.
No I meant the dashboard not the dash unit
One of our 4-1 manifolds works very well for this kind of application. Stock 4-1 or 4-2-1 are okay for tuned road engines/track cars making 220bhp'ish but having played with exhaust manifold design a lot on a couple of projects previously there is a fair whack of power to be found there!
We have access to a 5 Axis at the moment and are planning to add one to the machine shop before the year is out (even though it's a decent Gallardos worth of money!).
You get a National B by doing a one day ARDS test, and completing (nb: not starting) six races to the satisfaction of the clerk of the course whereby you can remove your novice cross. I don't think you're allowed to do the 24hr as a Novice. Best to call up and check. One of those six races can be substituted by spending a day as a marshal.In Britcar regs it stated National B is needed which you get from one day of ARDS test don't you? Perhaps I'm mistaken here?
CNC Mill
You get a National B by doing a one day ARDS test, and completing (nb: not starting) six races to the satisfaction of the clerk of the course whereby you can remove your novice cross. I don't think you're allowed to do the 24hr as a Novice. Best to call up and check. One of those six races can be substituted by spending a day as a marshal.
You get a National B by doing a one day ARDS test, and completing (nb: not starting) six races to the satisfaction of the clerk of the course whereby you can remove your novice cross. I don't think you're allowed to do the 24hr as a Novice. Best to call up and check. One of those six races can be substituted by spending a day as a marshal.
Interesting on the mani! Cost Pardon the ignorance, but 5 axis?