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182cup & 172 racecar
Older cars didn't have it in the first place.
Remove it all, if you get caught then you can't race. Choice is yours.
BMW Z4
Yeh they only have to glance down and see holes in your crossmember and you're done. I don't think cooling will be an issue with this larger rad as it is also thicker cored. The Polo rad was fine just ran a bit hotter on a hot day is all so I'm changing it before it causes problems. This rad looks more racey too which is good for my bling fix this month
as I am not allowed to have a Darth Vader bumper :quiet:
182cup & 172 racecar
I 'WANT' you to get that bumper.
Is there a link to the technical regulations for this series? Only interested as there's a chance I might be tempted to enter a few of these events at some point.
By the MSA book, they define the "Unitary Chassis" as between the wheel centres so you should be free to do as you please with the the front crossmember. It would seem a bit daft for a series to impose their own regulations that efficetively over rule the MSA's own blue book.
Not wanting to get the wooden spoon out here but in a recent picture of the Burpspeed car they appear to have put some holes in the inner section of the rear 1/4 panels, that is a definite no no in the eyes of the MSA as that is between the wheel centres and classed as part of the chassis. Unless of course the Phase 1 cars came with those holes, in which case I stand corrected but I've never noticed them on any other phase 1 car.
By the MSA book, they define the "Unitary Chassis" as between the wheel centres so you should be free to do as you please with the the front crossmember. It would seem a bit daft for a series to impose their own regulations that efficetively over rule the MSA's own blue book.
Not wanting to get the wooden spoon out here but in a recent picture of the Burpspeed car they appear to have put some holes in the inner section of the rear 1/4 panels, that is a definite no no in the eyes of the MSA as that is between the wheel centres and classed as part of the chassis. Unless of course the Phase 1 cars came with those holes, in which case I stand corrected but I've never noticed them on any other phase 1 car.
182cup & 172 racecar
The ph1 comes like that.
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
i did think this, but was then later educated they were done by a motorsport specialist (not someone who is responsible for making holes in golf courses...xxx)
BMW Z4
Ok so we still have a small leak (Couple of drops) gearbox side which I am assuming is from the bloody main cap stoopid French system.
SO
I have bought a syringe and the correct sealer but before I take the gearbox out and the sump off what IS the correct procedure for sealing that f**king c**ting b*****ding cap
SO
I have bought a syringe and the correct sealer but before I take the gearbox out and the sump off what IS the correct procedure for sealing that f**king c**ting b*****ding cap
BMW Z4
No Fred I mean the crankshaft main bearing cap that you have to squirt sealer inside. It's that that's leaking.
oh that, are you pushing the crank seal in far enough? no one EVER does on most of the engines i see! I don't use the renault sealer either, if you can shove a torch up into the engine you can then check to see if its 100% sealed, any light coming through - start again!
no, that never works, i smear it round the block side, checking the corners (just a bit) then squirt it into the grooves and smooth off with my finger
then insert into block and tighten the bolts bit by bit, then torque up, replace crank seal MAKING SURE its all the way in (normally neeeds a whack with a rubber hammer!)
then insert into block and tighten the bolts bit by bit, then torque up, replace crank seal MAKING SURE its all the way in (normally neeeds a whack with a rubber hammer!)
BMW Z4
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
I see.
Ill do it that way. Just gotta take my gearbox off
AGAIN :banghead:
Mark quick one for you, where do you have oil temp and pressure sensors on your car? Thanks
Thanks
BMW Z4
Hi Ash
Oil temp is on the top of the laminova and is an OMEX blue sensor. I had an adapter welded onto the laminova for this by Mik so the temp gauge sits in the oil flow.
Oil pressure is in the front of the engine using an adapter.
Water temp I have 2 of those. Both are OMEX blue sensors on the thermo housing, one on the top feeds my dash and one on the side feeds the ECU. I will have to ask Troy the reason he used two of them.
Mark.
PS
want pics?
Oil temp is on the top of the laminova and is an OMEX blue sensor. I had an adapter welded onto the laminova for this by Mik so the temp gauge sits in the oil flow.
Oil pressure is in the front of the engine using an adapter.
Water temp I have 2 of those. Both are OMEX blue sensors on the thermo housing, one on the top feeds my dash and one on the side feeds the ECU. I will have to ask Troy the reason he used two of them.
Mark.
PS
want pics?
Thanks for that Mark My oil temp used to be on the cooler too but has never worked so just trying to get it all working for the next race
Ahh good stuff I was going to use a T piece for the pressure so I will order one of those now!
Good idea by Troy as then you have two different readings so you can check I am going to fit a second to mine over winter
Thanks for the help Mark!
My oil temp used to be on the cooler too but has never worked so just trying to get it all working for the next race Ahh good stuff I was going to use a T piece for the pressure so I will order one of those now!
Good idea by Troy as then you have two different readings so you can check I am going to fit a second to mine over winter
Thanks for the help Mark!
BMW Z4
Hi Guys
So I have made a concerted effort to get to the bottom of my leaking main crankshaft seal. I think I have finally figured it out with the help of a couple of people on here
Look at the pics. See the red arrows, there is a recess there on the main cap. It sits further in than the block (top half) I think when I have been tapping the seal in flush ALL THE WAY round because the bottom half (the cap) sits further in this makes the seal wonky at the bottom and thus it slightly leaks.
With this new seal as you can see I have tapped it in not quite flush at the top (Block) and this has left what looks like a bit more black proud at the bottom although it is level all the way around as I have checked A LOT. I am hoping this one will not leak
Am I right and does that new one look right? I could tap it in a little bit more at the top but didnt want to if not needed..
Mark..
So I have made a concerted effort to get to the bottom of my leaking main crankshaft seal. I think I have finally figured it out with the help of a couple of people on here
Look at the pics. See the red arrows, there is a recess there on the main cap. It sits further in than the block (top half) I think when I have been tapping the seal in flush ALL THE WAY round because the bottom half (the cap) sits further in this makes the seal wonky at the bottom and thus it slightly leaks.
With this new seal as you can see I have tapped it in not quite flush at the top (Block) and this has left what looks like a bit more black proud at the bottom although it is level all the way around as I have checked A LOT. I am hoping this one will not leak
Am I right and does that new one look right? I could tap it in a little bit more at the top but didnt want to if not needed..
Mark..
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Im sure someone with more f4r experience will confirm but if there's room to knock it back then do so, there should be a polished part on the crank where previous seal sat and that's what I would aim for unless you can feel a groove when running your finger nail over the polished part then I would move seal accordingly to avoid the lip and not affect clearance with flywheel.
BMW Z4
Ill give this one a go then
Is it right that I have a lip there on the cap? Some other pics i have looked at show it as flush with the block but mine sits inwards slightly?Mark.
BMW Z4
Put it back together and this time started it up without bothering to refit the subframe, glad I did as it leaked again :banghead:
:banghead:
:banghead:
Took it all off again and this time it did look like it was leaking from the sump gasket at that end! So took the sump off and will fit a new gasket tommorow dohh
:banghead:
:banghead:
I still need someone to tell me if that main end cap should be flush with the block or if it is ok recessed a bit like mine is??????????????????????????????????????????????? Obviously the engine ran ok with it like that because I won at Cadwell LOL
Questions
1. Is my main cap ok like it is?
2. Do you put sealer on the sump gasket or fit dry?
:banghead:
:banghead:
Took it all off again and this time it did look like it was leaking from the sump gasket at that end! So took the sump off and will fit a new gasket tommorow dohh
:banghead:
:banghead:
I still need someone to tell me if that main end cap should be flush with the block or if it is ok recessed a bit like mine is??????????????????????????????????????????????? Obviously the engine ran ok with it like that because I won at Cadwell LOL
Questions
1. Is my main cap ok like it is?
2. Do you put sealer on the sump gasket or fit dry?
BMW Z4
Hi Guys
So I have now fitted yet another new oil seal and a new sump gasket but this time after taking extensive measurements I figured out that if you whack the oil seal all the way home the seal falls off the back of the crank dohhh. The optimum for my crank is to leave a lip of between 2.5 to 3.5mm so I did. As you can see I still have a leak although the oil seal and main cap are both bone dry now.
The leak appears to be coming from either the sump bolts or a hairline crack in the sump that I can't see. Do they crack there? Is that common?
Anyway i have ordered a new sump now
The face of this is wet up to the bolt
As you can see this is totally dry now
The drip, its not much which leads me to think its just a very small crack.
Mark
PS
I had a MASSIVE DOHHHHHHHHHHHH Moment. I bolted it all back together and started it up without putting the oil back in the sump Oooopppsss. Thankfully I realised within about 15 seconds and turned it off. Refilled the oil and started it again and have 42psi oil pressure at 4000 rpm and 18 at idle when hot. Sounds ok too, no rattles Think I caught it in time phewwww.... I guess it helps it was slick 50d...
So I have now fitted yet another new oil seal and a new sump gasket but this time after taking extensive measurements I figured out that if you whack the oil seal all the way home the seal falls off the back of the crank dohhh. The optimum for my crank is to leave a lip of between 2.5 to 3.5mm so I did. As you can see I still have a leak although the oil seal and main cap are both bone dry now.
The leak appears to be coming from either the sump bolts or a hairline crack in the sump that I can't see. Do they crack there? Is that common?
Anyway i have ordered a new sump now
The face of this is wet up to the bolt
As you can see this is totally dry now
The drip, its not much which leads me to think its just a very small crack.
Mark
PS
I had a MASSIVE DOHHHHHHHHHHHH Moment. I bolted it all back together and started it up without putting the oil back in the sump Oooopppsss. Thankfully I realised within about 15 seconds and turned it off. Refilled the oil and started it again and have 42psi oil pressure at 4000 rpm and 18 at idle when hot. Sounds ok too, no rattles
Think I caught it in time phewwww.... I guess it helps it was slick 50d...
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Clio 172
Have to admire your persistance with this leak Mark, I would have thrown the towel in by now and taken it somewhere to be sorted. Kudos to you sir.
182cup & 172 racecar
I thought that's what drip trays for.
BMW Z4
It's nearly ran out!!
I was under the car for the 4th time, or was it the 5th time (I forget it's been so many now) to take the box off and was cleaning gasket off the bottom of the block and moved my long bladed stanley to my left hand and then rubbed the block with my right hand and sliced my thumb on the blade (Deep) I just looked at it and shouted out f**k ITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT really loud and then went in the house and packed in.
Got a new sump coming tommorow and am gonna put some sealer on the threads of ALL those bolts too as each one goes in. Why and how does it leak from the bolts though? That's the main cap bolt. Does the thread go all the way through into the engine on that one and then you get leakage down it? Or does the oil somehow get past the sump gasket and then drip down the thread.
God I hate that cap design
Another thing. Do you torque up the sump before or after lining it up with the gearbox mount holes. The first time I did that the holes were slightly out of alignment and I had to loosen the sump a bit and then put the bolts through and then re torque the sump up!
Mark the oh so persistant one...
No it isn't, Rhodoseal between the two end mains caps, will be why its leaking from there most likely!
Nice work on the PAS Mark, Its on my list for November My pipes are knackered so wanted to get some made do you have any details of what pipes you went with or did NMS do those for you?
My pipes are knackered so wanted to get some made do you have any details of what pipes you went with or did NMS do those for you?
shiftspark
ClioSport Club Member
R53 GR86
That is very neat pipework! I would also be interested in the details.
Cheers
Cheers
ahh! I've fitted a few dry and never had any leakage problems
BMW Z4
So just to get this right as my new sump is arriving tommorow.
1. You fit the gasket dry
2. But you put Rhodorseal on the end cap where the gaps are?
I am also gonna put rhodorseal on the bolt threads themselves to make sure as it does indeed look like the oil is coming down the bolt hole somehow. Damned if I can see how that happens though as the gasket goes around each bolt!!!!
Ok as for PS pipes ill take pics of the them on the rack as it's off at the mo and will post tommorow so you can see the bottom ok
mark..
PS
Had my shells out to check them after starting her up with no oil in and they are fine
PPS
I had a custom ally bracket made by Mik for my pump and then mounted it on 4 of those feet with rubber in the middle.
Depends how well the cap(s) have been sealed in the first place. I've never know one not leak without it, hell they'll still leak with it. Can take a few thousand miles to show on a road car but it accumulates.
That's because it's for a 774 lump from a mk2 rs megane, the sump is different as the bell housing pattern is different.
The sealing procedure is the same though, the top picture is a 730/732/736/738 lump as the 774 doesn't run an aux driven water pump. It's just the tightening sequence that's different.
The sealing procedure is the same though, the top picture is a 730/732/736/738 lump as the 774 doesn't run an aux driven water pump. It's just the tightening sequence that's different.
