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Immobiliser won't go off when new key in ignition



Hi guys bit of a newbie to the Clio scene I have an annoying fault with my 172. Sometimes when I go to start the car the red light in the middle of the dash stays on and the car won't start after a few seconds maybe a minute of holding the button on the key in the car will register that the key is there and will start. Any ideas guys as this is really bugging me thank you
 
Hi DaveDreads the key is about 4 months old bought from a Renault dealer it's not the key as it was doing it with the old key be4. I'm just going on wot the AA did Danlp6 they held the key in the ignition with the button held in till the immobiliser went off then it started. Been told it could be the transponder ?. Like i say I'm new to the Clio
 
  Clio Sport 172 Ph2
The most common prob is the ring reciever just in behind the ignition cowling, they dont transmit the correct code from the key to the ECU, i logs into loads of clios with errors for this.
 
Thank you mikeclio172spt is this some thing I can replace or would it be best to take to a dealer or can the local garage I use do it. Is this the transponder then
 
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There's some thing stoping the signal from the key gunna give wot mikeclio said a try see wot happens but thanks 4 all ur help I'm a little closer to sorting it out now. Will let u all know how I get on after Friday but if u hav any more suggestions feel free to post them thanks guys
 

MicKPM

ClioSport Trader
  Clio16v/Zoe Z.E.50
100% bugger all to do with the key or the induction loop on the ignition barrel if you ask me. The LED's state is solid red which clearly means (and the X65 system operation notes back this up) the key/code is not only being recieved but is being accepted just fine (if it were a code unknown issue or failure to recieve the code it would be flashing at 4Hz) and the immobiliser is remaining active because something system critical on the CANBus is failing to report in (this would be confirmed and most likely narrowed down to a specific node by running the network infrastructure tests in CLIP). It scares me that some Renault techs can't use the dealer level kit properly.

Honestly, in nearly 15yrs working on these cars I can count on one hand the number of genuine induction loop faults I've encountered. Check all your fuses first and then launch into some basic wiring conformity checks...

... Normal causes of wiring related issues are in the engine loom around the gearbox area or, if fuse related, the UCH fuse in the passenger dash fuse box or poor contacts in the engine bay fuse box to the three blade fuses in positions 1, 2 and 5.

Mick
 
  Clio Sport 172 Ph2
There's some thing stoping the signal from the key gunna give wot mikeclio said a try see wot happens but thanks 4 all ur help I'm a little closer to sorting it out now. Will let u all know how I get on after Friday but if u hav any more suggestions feel free to post them thanks guys

Id personally get somebody u know with diagnostics, & log into the UCH module to see what data its giving. The Transciever round the ignition is my personal experience from dealing with immobilser faults, but yours might not be.... but if you get one, there pretty simple to change.
 

fatboymal

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 182
100% bugger all to do with the key or the induction loop on the ignition barrel if you ask me. The LED's state is solid red which clearly means (and the X65 system operation notes back this up) the key/code is not only being recieved but is being accepted just fine (if it were a code unknown issue or failure to recieve the code it would be flashing at 4Hz) and the immobiliser is remaining active because something system critical on the CANBus is failing to report in (this would be confirmed and most likely narrowed down to a specific node by running the network infrastructure tests in CLIP). It scares me that some Renault techs can't use the dealer level kit properly.

Honestly, in nearly 15yrs working on these cars I can count on one hand the number of genuine induction loop faults I've encountered. Check all your fuses first and then launch into some basic wiring conformity checks...

... Normal causes of wiring related issues are in the engine loom around the gearbox area or, if fuse related, the UCH fuse in the passenger dash fuse box or poor contacts in the engine bay fuse box to the three blade fuses in positions 1, 2 and 5.

Mick

Mick,

Sorry to drag up an old thread but it describes perfectly the problem with mine (04 182). What was an intermittent problem is now happening everyday. The red light stays on, and then it won't start.

I've checked the UCH fuse in the passenger dash fuse box, and there is no corrosion on the fuses in the engine bay fuse box.

Any suggestions on where to look next? Any help is much appreciated.
 

Scrooge

ClioSport Moderator
  E55 AMG
Check the earths in the bay mate, specifically the one on the top at the rear of the gearbox.
 

fatboymal

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 182
Check the earths in the bay mate, specifically the one on the top at the rear of the gearbox.

Thanks - can I reach that without a ramp?

Also, does anyone know of a trader in South Wales with a clip so that the problem can be identified?

Just in case anyone has really good problem solving skills - this happens much more often when the car is parked facing down a slope than facing up!
 

Scrooge

ClioSport Moderator
  E55 AMG
Deffo sounds like a loose earth then. yes it's best not to use a ramp, take the airbox out and check the earth connection out on top of the gearbox.
 

fatboymal

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 182
I couldn't get to the bolts on the earth strap (even with the airbox off) but gave it a good wiggle and the car worked fine for a couple of days. Now it's back to the starting problem.

A local garage thinks it's the crankshaft sensor - would this cause the solid red light?
 

fatboymal

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 182
100% bugger all to do with the key or the induction loop on the ignition barrel if you ask me. The LED's state is solid red which clearly means (and the X65 system operation notes back this up) the key/code is not only being recieved but is being accepted just fine (if it were a code unknown issue or failure to recieve the code it would be flashing at 4Hz) and the immobiliser is remaining active because something system critical on the CANBus is failing to report in (this would be confirmed and most likely narrowed down to a specific node by running the network infrastructure tests in CLIP). It scares me that some Renault techs can't use the dealer level kit properly.

Honestly, in nearly 15yrs working on these cars I can count on one hand the number of genuine induction loop faults I've encountered. Check all your fuses first and then launch into some basic wiring conformity checks...

... Normal causes of wiring related issues are in the engine loom around the gearbox area or, if fuse related, the UCH fuse in the passenger dash fuse box or poor contacts in the engine bay fuse box to the three blade fuses in positions 1, 2 and 5.

Mick

Mick, if I drive the car to you, does the car have to display the problem whilst I am there (it is intermittent), or does the network infrastructure test store past problems also? My life would be so much easier if I lived near a specialist..
 
  PH2 RS172
if youve messed with the engine earth and its been fine but is now playing up again id change the earth strap just to be double sure. makes sense.. you could have a corroded earth that freed up when you played with it but regardless.. is fraggled
 
Hi all just thought I would update found and fixed my problem after replacing the earth straps witch they needed doing anyway it came bk so I took the car to my local renault dealer they put on the computer it ran throw my whole car and found only 1 problem ignition coil was faulty wasn't reading the key even tho it was new or the old key. So they changed it at a cost of £185 + vat it's now been a month or two and touch wood it's been ok no more solid red lights phew.

​Hope this helps some 1
 


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