Kangvic

[Ferdinand]

Hi all

Here follows a build thread for my 2004 Kangoo 1.4l 8v

My parents bought the kangoo new in 2005 and it was handed down to my sister at some point in the past and then i got her in 2019 with about 320 000km (if i remeber correctly) on the clock and 2 timing bealt breaks. I drove her for about another 30 000km until the coil pack gave up, so i stripperd the engine down to see what else needed to be done and came to the conclusion that the engine has reached the end of its life.

I started with research and initially decided on the the k4m swap, then later on f4r swap. Basically wanted to do the kanglio conversion. But i just couldnt find a nice engine and didnt really have 20k to spend on a engine.
My brother had a honda d15b 3 stage vtec engine that he had built into a fiat x1/9 and since crashed and stripped the engine out. So he suggested i use the honda engine. So that whats currently happening.

Kangoo on a 2500km roadtrip.

Test fitting the honda engine to see if it will actually fit.

Fabricating the new engine mounts.

 

[Sash]

Could be an interesting build this..! Good luck with it!

 

[Ferdinand]

So as you can see the engine sits on the other side of the engine bay🙈

The engine is now hanging by itself roughly where it should be, so the next step is to start fabricating the dogbone link, then after that i can come back and modify the gearbox and engine mounts again.

 

[Ferdinand]

Oh and another fun part, the sump doesnt actually fit past the subframe as you can see in the pictures of when i was test fitting, so im going to have to cut out quite a large section and reweld another piece so i can get back the oil capacity which in turn results there not being any more space for the exhuast to run under the engine, so currently my plan is for it to exit infront of the left front wheel😅 on the one hand my obnoxious side really really likes it but on the other hand im not so sure😂

 

[Ferdinand]

Spent the afternoon removing the power steering lines to make space for the dogbone link. My thought process was as my power steering pump is anyway going to be relocated i might as well just redo all my power steering lines and get better fitment on the dogbone link.

 

[PP200t]

Awesome build mate, and something definately different! Look forward to the outcome.

 

[Ferdinand]

Got a rear engine mount for a honda ballade that fits my engine. Planning on making a mount for it this weekend(probably wont finish as its christmas weekend and my usual nut and bolt shop will be closed)

 

[Brigsy]

Great project, in for updates. Plenty of turbo parts out for the dseries engine if you want a bit more power in the future

 

[Ferdinand]

That is 100% the plan with some rods and pistons from a d16 they can easily handle 300hp.

But for now its just to get the car running, sort out paint, do safety improvements and then im allowed to do performance mods.

My goal/plan is to build the car into a suv focused more on the sport part.

With regrads to safety i was thinking a cage with the main goal to strengthen the A pillar and strengthen for a side collision(seems to be the two main weakpoints). Then nice comfy bucket seats with harnesses.
I know this is probably a very long shot but is there perhaps a 3d scan of the chassis somewhere? My dad can do finite element analysis, so if i can get a 3d scan of the chassis and design in a roll cage he'll be able to tell me exactly how strong it is (but yeah that will probably never materialise) .

 

[Ferdinand]

Dropped the subframe out, and stripped it down today so i can fabricate the mountings for the rear engine mount.
Seeing as i already have it out do you guys think its worth it to weld the seams up and do some general stiffening?
For stiffening i was thinking something like that for the wishbone mounts (those triangles in red just cut out of 3mm plate and welded in)? The yellow triangle on the bottom of the frame also from 3mm plate. All of it obviously mirrored on the other side too. Any other suggestions in that regard?

 

[Brigsy]

No harm in seamwelding the subframe whilst off. Mine has been seamwelded and has additional bracing on my clio trophy.

 

[Ferdinand]

Where did you put your bracing in?

 

[plees]

I’ve had mine stitch welded because it was getting blasted and painted so why not! But as it’s going to be running more power and torque eventually it could make sense!

 

[Ferdinand]

Just finished tacking in the rear engine mount.

 

[Brigsy]

Where did you put your bracing in?

Its braced around the track control arm mounts from memory similar to what your thinking of doing. I didnt do the work previous owner done it.

 

[Ferdinand]

Ive been busy with the shifter linkage. The linkage is tacked up and im actually able to change gears from inside the car. The ratio on the kangoo shifter between the top and the bottom of the ball joint is just not suited for the amount of throw on the honda gearbox, ends up being a extremely short shifter and abit hard to change gears properly without jumping over neutral for example, so my plan is to just extend the top half of the shaft and get better mechanical advantage (tested it with a piece of tubing stuck over and felt way better).
I just still wanna lengthen the linkage rod to get better placement on the angle where the shifter sits in relation to where my hands want to go, sort out some play and then finish up the welds.

Also started on a cad drawing for the mount so i can attach the kangoo power steering pump to the honda engine.

 

[Ferdinand]

Bracket for the clutch cable is finished. The clutch doesn't feel amazing but it's hard to tell without actually driving the car so it's gonna stay like that for now.

On the power steering pump front, i have realised that because the honda engine rotation is reversed I'm not gonna be able to use the Renault one and i cant use the honda one either because of space constraints. So I'll have to fit an electric power steering pump, and as my plan is to later fit an electric aircon pump too, I'm going to fit an uprated alternator(think in the region of a 120A one, will just have to double check what my requirements are gonna be).

 

[Ferdinand]

Ive been doing some research on the electric power steering pump and it seems it came in a clio and a kangoo, looks like the 1.5dci. Could any of you provide some more info on what car exactly it came in?
Attached is a pictures of the two pumps ive found.
If anyone could pls enlighten me as too which cars they came in.

 

[Yarp]

On the Clio it’s all built into the column. I’ve got an epas column in the garage but don’t have a pic, this ad shows what it’s like. Not sure if they are a direct fit or not though

Renault Clio II 2002 Electric power steering pump 67000000300 DTL17851 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Renault Clio II 2002 Electric power steering pump 67000000300 DTL17851 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Ferdinand]

Yeah thats not what im looking for, cause if i want to use that ill have to swap out my column and rack. What im looking at is just a electric hydraulic pump, so instead of the hydraulic pump being driven by the engine its driven by a electric motor. By using that electric driven hydraulic pump i can keep my column and rack as is and just mount the pump somewhere in the engine bay and supply it with power.

 

[Brigsy]

Kangoo or kubistar only for electric hpas pump as far as i know.

If you want another option, maybe look at the mercedes electric hpas pumps as easily available

 

[Yarp]

Or plan C… be a hero and bin the PAS. I did it on my Clio (all be it a bit lighter) and it’s f**king awesome. Steering feel is amazing and on a proper B road blast it’s an unreal experience. It gets rid of the skipping and dancing about they do when the road surface changes. It’s only heavy at super low speed. Once your moving all is well

 

[Daniel]

I don’t like Kangvic. What about Hongoo? 😂

 

[Ferdinand]

Ive been thinking about the no power steering option too. I have driven her once a few years back without a auxiliary belt and if i remember correctly it was actually quite drivable. My only issue is im worried about the extra strain on that small little u joint that connects the steering column to the valve body on the steering rack(it will probably be more that strong enough but if it decides to go its not gonna be good).

Yeah I don't like kangvic either😂 once shes driving ill give her a nicer name. Shes always just been know as the kangoo or the green car, never actually had a name.

 

[Ferdinand]

Test fitted the intake and exhuast manifold today. I had to cut abit out of the firewall and grind some nipples away on the intake so that it has enough clearance and so that im able to get it on and off without having to pull the whole engine out.
Exhuast manifold didnt have any issues, next im just gonna have to do the radiator brackets so that it clears the exhuast manifold.

 

[Ferdinand]

I mounted the radiator today, i first wanted to just relocate the original brackets, i tried it with the first one but it didnt really work and looked like s**t so i decided to just make new ones from scratch. Im reasonably happy with them, i just still have to add support plates to them so that they dont just bend down when theres more weight on them.
In the pictures the top of the radiator isnt attached yet, thats why its leaning back abit.

 

[Ferdinand]

Ive rerouted the oil pickup and cut a giant hole in the sump. I just need to get myself some 5mm aluminuim plate and cut it into the right shapes and then have it all tig welded back together. Im also going to add in a box on the other side of the sump in order to get back the lost oil capacity, ill probaly make it larger so i can have some extra oil capacity.

 

[Ferdinand]

I got my welded sump back yesterday. It looks pretty good, other than the fact that there is a small pinhole leak in the one weld.
So ill just test fit it for now and then when my exhuast is ready to be welded ill take the sump with to have the hole fixed.

 

[Brigsy]

Looks like its coming together nicely

 

[Ferdinand]

So i havent posted in a while because not much has happend.
I painted the subframe and engine mounts, refitted the engine, took the coils out of the struts and then measured the driveshafts.
So the left side driveshaft is a old honda driveshaft made from EN19 that is being friction welded to the standard renault driveshaft.
On the right side driveshaft im having a complete new shaft made from EN19.

Does anyone by chance know what material the standard kangoo driveshaft is made of?

Both shafts should be done in about a weeks time and then ill probably have them heat treated, but in order to do that ill need to know what material the kangoo driveshaft is, so ill send the cut off section for testing to see how it was hardened and what material it is and then try to get the same finish on the new shafts.

Ill post pictures of everything when i get my driveshafts back.

 

[Ferdinand]

I got my driveshafts back from hardening today.
I had the short driveshaft hardend to 42 HRC and the long side came out at 39 HRC for the 25CrMo4(renault shaft) and 40 HRC for the EN19.

If anyone is intersted here is the material analasis report.
Renault Kangoo 2004 right side driveshaft material

 

[Ferdinand]

Here are some pictures of my drivehsfts in the car, the suspension is currently at full droop.
Ive also painted my engine mounts and subframe and installed the coolant expansion tank.

 

[RSRowe]

Awesome!