Meguiars MF DA System

[jenic]

I'm sure there was a thread on this last year, cant find it though.

Is anyone using this? Does it work well on the clio? And how long do the pads tend to last?

Thinking of buying the G220 kit on i4detailing, it looks exactly like what I'm looking for as the Trophy has a fair few swirls I'd like rid of...



A couple of articles I found interesting

http://www.toddcooperider.com/review-meguiars-da-microfiber-polishing-system/

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/blog/2011/08/meguiars-da-microfibre-correction-system/

 

[JD]

Speak to Russ.

 

[jenic]

Cheers, have pm'd him

 

[Gally]

I'd rather buy a rotary I think. Lot of kit and good gains but only for heavy correction imo.

Speak to Russ though he'll give you the lowdown.

 

[jenic]

I'd rather buy a rotary I think. Lot of kit and good gains but only for heavy correction imo.

Speak to Russ though he'll give you the lowdown.

I'm a noob to it though, dont really want a rotary

 

[Gally]

See something like the Ep800 from cyc done away with the noobness. I like to think of it like a half and half. On a car of the Clio size i'd even pick it up before a Millwaukee.

People forget they're not going to be doing 3 day corrections. Of course ime Clio clearcoat is bloody solid but the rotary would nip out so many light marks you'd be surprised.

Da's are very good but the MF system is overkill for you mate. I'm betting you could get some decent correction with the right pad and polish and maybe glaze to give it that final boost.

You should be avoiding removing clearcoat where possible of course so anything to help that ie a glaze is not to be sniffed at.

 

[jenic]

I'm just thinking I could quite easily cause more damage than good with a rotary? As someone thats not really used a machine polisher before.

Would you recommend a regular DA kit then?, something like this: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...ion-polisher-menzerna-intro-kit/prod_721.html

Plus maybe a glaze aswell, and then my jett to finish?

 

[Gally]

Have a gander at this... http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?620334-I-bought-a-DAS-6-kit-)

Have a look at my posts in there then come back in here mate and ask away. I like to buy my stuff individually mate, any DA is fine, of course the the plus one is best as it's more powerful and easier to get some correction. You don't need a kit imo.

 

[welshname]

Pretty useful that. Will be looking at a DA (don't trust myself with a rotary) come summer

 

[Knuckles]

browsing through that thread gally, am i right in thinking glazes are 'fillers' that hide the smaller swirls? im a bit of a detail virgin but id like to know whats what before i get a new car so i can keep on top of it.

*after this ill stop hijacking your thread jenic *

 

[Eddie.]

Why do people say that rotarys are so dangerous?

I was at a wetsanding open day the other day and I had a chat to the guys there about the risks of rotarys over DA's and they said that yeah they are more risky, but only if you're a complete idiot with it?!

My understanding is that a rotary is slightly harder to control and generates a bit more heat, that's it?!

Don't anyone flame me, just wondering where the fear comes from?

 

[Gally]

browsing through that thread gally, am i right in thinking glazes are 'fillers' that hide the smaller swirls? im a bit of a detail virgin but id like to know whats what before i get a new car so i can keep on top of it.

*after this ill stop hijacking your thread jenic *

Hi mate, yeah you could say that, did you look at the thread of mine inside the glazing thread with the FRP? In some cases the like of Amigo and Blackmax on the right pad can remove some swirls permenantly whilst filling the deeper ones.

I always suggest polishing then glazing. Polishing will remove micro marring very easily and the deeper marks sometimes aren't worth chasing on a daily car when you can save the clearcoat. I seen a black car over on DW showroom. Audi A4, it had some of the best aftershots i've ever seen, simply Blackhole followed by AG HD. Blackhole illed all the imperfections and created a nice finish.

Glazes imo are still over looked because pros don't use them. People forget pros are paid to fully correct cars not fill them, over 3 days that's easy to do. in 8 hours it's impossible.

Why do people say that rotarys are so dangerous?

I was at a wetsanding open day the other day and I had a chat to the guys there about the risks of rotarys over DA's and they said that yeah they are more risky, but only if you're a complete idiot with it?!

My understanding is that a rotary is slightly harder to control and generates a bit more heat, that's it?!

Don't anyone flame me, just wondering where the fear comes from?

You're pretty bang on imo, if you learn rotary control then it's much much easier than a DA, I even glaze with a rotary because the DA does my hands in a lot. It's a great "beginner" tool no doubt though. I just see it as a little expensive when that EP is like £70-80.

 

[Knuckles]

Hi mate, yeah you could say that, did you look at the thread of mine inside the glazing thread with the FRP? In some cases the like of Amigo and Blackmax on the right pad can remove some swirls permenantly whilst filling the deeper ones.

I always suggest polishing then glazing. Polishing will remove micro marring very easily and the deeper marks sometimes aren't worth chasing on a daily car when you can save the clearcoat. I seen a black car over on DW showroom. Audi A4, it had some of the best aftershots i've ever seen, simply Blackhole followed by AG HD. Blackhole illed all the imperfections and created a nice finish.

Glazes imo are still over looked because pros don't use them. People forget pros are paid to fully correct cars not fill them, over 3 days that's easy to do. in 8 hours it's impossible.

That sounds bang on for what id be after tbh. ill check through your threads, ive not been reading them just because detailing seems so daunting lol.

rotaries are the bigger machines arent they? can they be compared to oribital sanders (bare with me lol) in terms of speed and weight? because i tried to use an orbital sander when i fitted my bumper and i almost took a corner off lol. or are they easier to use when theres a polishing pad fitted?

 

[Eddie.]

You're pretty bang on imo, if you learn rotary control then it's much much easier than a DA, I even glaze with a rotary because the DA does my hands in a lot. It's a great "beginner" tool no doubt though. I just see it as a little expensive when that EP is like £70-80.

Yeah yeah, at least I wasn't being a total idiot then! haha

The guys there saying that it takes longer to master, but the long term results and use-ability are far greater than the DA.

When I was watching them use the DA, it looked awkward the way it shakes all over the place, the rotary actually "looked" easier!

 

[Joe#]

I don't no whether to stay with my silverline rotary, or go for a DAS-6.

 

[jenic]

Had a read through that, I know it's sort of going over what's all ready been said but would this be suitable

DAS6 machine only
Hex White with PO106FA
Hew Blue with Prima Amigo
Then top up with my jett (or should there be a stage before this?)

But the white+106 combo might not cut enough to rid my swirls? In which case should I go for the menz kit I linked to before so I have some more options or what other more abrasive pad and polish would you recommend? It would be cheaper to just buy a different pad and/or polish than the kit afterall.

Is the Trophy paint relatively hard? Or do the finishing polishes provide enough for it?

Cheers mate

 

[welshname]

You should cleanse with something like Prime before putting your glaze on no?

 

[Eddie.]

You should cleanse with something like Prime before putting your glaze on no?

Thought cleanser went on before polishing, to get a perfectly clean surface, and IPA/cleanse afterwards to remove the polishing oils?

 

[Joe#]

After claying and before polishing iirc?

 

[welshname]

Thought cleanser went on before polishing, to get a perfectly clean surface, and IPA/cleanse afterwards to remove the polishing oils?

Exactly, before Prima Amigo he's using a polish. Iirc you should cleanse before using the glaze.

 

[Eddie.]

Exactly, before Prima Amigo he's using a polish. Iirc you should cleanse before using the glaze.

Sorry I see what you mean, yeah yeah. I thought you can use it twice, but it might be overkill!

I know you need to remove the polishing oils though.

 

[jenic]

Regarding the cleanser, the prima amigo glaze I picked is mentioned by gally as a cleanser and glaze in the other thread.

Between clay and polish I haven't considered, suggestions?

 

[welshname]

Regarding the cleanser, the prima amigo glaze I picked is mentioned by gally as a cleanser and glaze in the other thread.

Between clay and polish I haven't considered, suggestions?

Sure he said to use cleanser aswell as Amigo to me :/

 

[Gally]

That sounds bang on for what id be after tbh. ill check through your threads, ive not been reading them just because detailing seems so daunting lol.

rotaries are the bigger machines arent they? can they be compared to oribital sanders (bare with me lol) in terms of speed and weight? because i tried to use an orbital sander when i fitted my bumper and i almost took a corner off lol. or are they easier to use when theres a polishing pad fitted?

Cleanyourcar EP800. Perfect balance between the two.

Had a read through that, I know it's sort of going over what's all ready been said but would this be suitable

DAS6 machine only
Hex White with PO106FA
Hew Blue with Prima Amigo
Then top up with my jett (or should there be a stage before this?)

But the white+106 combo might not cut enough to rid my swirls? In which case should I go for the menz kit I linked to before so I have some more options or what other more abrasive pad and polish would you recommend? It would be cheaper to just buy a different pad and/or polish than the kit afterall.

Is the Trophy paint relatively hard? Or do the finishing polishes provide enough for it?

Cheers mate

Pretty bang on mate. Your paint will be hard but using a harsh polish takes time to use and learn, that's why I suggest one polish. Maybe best going for 2 if you'd be happier. Technique > Products. I could correct a car quicker using 106FA than some would with FG500 if you know what I mean. The polish would surprise you mate. Maybe practice with the 106FA instead of buying 2 polishes and getting poor polishing pads?

You should cleanse with something like Prime before putting your glaze on no?

Thought cleanser went on before polishing, to get a perfectly clean surface, and IPA/cleanse afterwards to remove the polishing oils?

After claying and before polishing iirc?

Exactly, before Prima Amigo he's using a polish. Iirc you should cleanse before using the glaze.

Sorry I see what you mean, yeah yeah. I thought you can use it twice, but it might be overkill!

I know you need to remove the polishing oils though.

Regarding the cleanser, the prima amigo glaze I picked is mentioned by gally as a cleanser and glaze in the other thread.

Between clay and polish I haven't considered, suggestions?

Head f**k. Did anyone really read my cleansing thread or did I talk utter pish?

Genral rule of thumb -

Cleansing > Polishing > Cleansing > Glaze > Lsp

If the paint is rather clean, ie it's been cleaned to a decent level in the past...
Polish > Cleanse > Glaze > Lsp

 

[welshname]

WINNER!

 

[Gally]

Regarding the cleanser, the prima amigo glaze I picked is mentioned by gally as a cleanser and glaze in the other thread.

Between clay and polish I haven't considered, suggestions?

Sure he said to use cleanser aswell as Amigo to me :/

It's a little confusing. Amigo/Blackmax can be used as a cleanser but it's also a glaze, so to get the best from it's glazing properties I like to use a cleanser via MF applicator before hand.

 

[welshname]

It's a tad confusing. Starting to get to grips with it all now.

 

[Gally]

Even my head hurts!

 

[JD]

Prime is a cleanser. Prima isn't really. You can use Prime twice to be honest, you'll be amazed at the contaminants it pulls off your paint. After claying and before polishing and then after polish and before glazing.

 

[JD]

Christ I'm getting slow.

 

[jenic]

Right, so I'll go for the list, with just one polish. And add a cleanser to my list too. I'll probably pick up the acrylic prime.

God this is going to add up, should still all come out cheaper than the MF package though! Good news is my uncle just called and mentioned he bought a DA a few years ago so going to go to his tonight to have a look at it, might save £85 there :approve:

Cheers for all the help, I'll get there eventually.

 

[Joe#]

I'll have a read in my lunch break

 

[Gally]

I think it is utter pish! Lols!

Good choice Mike, good luck with it. Prime is a great cleanser.

 

[welshname]

Oh hai!

 

[Yellow Dave]

Jenic, I didn't end up using a cutting compound on my LY Clio, using lime prime or rejuvenate with either a white or green hex pad via DA gave a great finish, a little cut, a little glazing, best of both really. How bad is the paint on the Trophy. On a side note I found the LY paint to be quite hard for true correction.

I've moved onto the EP800 from DA but hoping to change again should Russ make a change also.

 

[Joe#]

x

My next cyc order is going to be delivered on a pallet probably

 

[jenic]

The paint isn't terrible, but it has visible swirls and want them rid.

I'm looking at rejuvenate instead of the acrylic prime now, as I can just buy it from CYC at the same time as the rest.

I'm going to get it all ordered at the same time regardless but I might get away with the rejuvenate then a glaze and not have to use the 106 polish. I'm hovering over buy but not sure what to do. Both cleansers are around the same price, £1 difference I think, so no worries there.

 

[Keith185]

I found my Trophy's paint to be really hard to get rid of anything but minor swirls with light/meduium products tbh.

Got Megs MF stuff to try soon, mind you the paint on mines quite bad

 

[jenic]

I found my Trophy's paint to be really hard to get rid of anything but minor swirls with light/meduium products tbh.

Got Megs MF stuff to try soon, mind you the paint on mines quite bad

Will have to see how I get on then! Hopefully should provide some level of correction, I'm not expecting anywhere near 100% as I'm still all new to it!

I've gone with the prime as I said originally, just to order from CYC and its all on its way!

 

[Gally]

Rejuvenate is immense, the problem you have is it has filling abilities so you might think you're removing these marks but really you're not. By DA maybe just stick with Rejuvenate and Amigo. By rotary i'd be using the 106 to remove a lot of the micro marring (spider webbing) then glaze with amigo.

It's hard to explain as there are so many options but decent correct via DA can take time.

If you're using 106fa get the prime+Amigo, if you're using rejuvenate just get Amigo. Simole?