My 182ff track car build (so far)

1985michael182 · Nov 26, 2020

Next I tried something new after watching many, many, many YouTube videos.

I wanted to try the door bullets mod.

So I got my bullets and sanded the raised lettering off using 80grit, 180grit, 240grit then 400.

I primered them in black high build primer, flatted them off with 800 wet and dry then used satin black to colour them up again.

I then got a parts box, washed it out and filled it with warm water. 30°c is the sweet spot. The water surface needs to be spotless or it ruins the dip finish.

You place your hydro dip film ontop of the water shiney side down. Give it 30 seconds to settle and flow out. Spray the activator wait another 30 seconds. Then dip your item at 30/40° nice and slowly.

You are left with a slimey PVA coating which you run under the Tap to remove.
Dry them off and then fit the decals.

Ensure the decals are properly seated and then lacquer them.

Pretty easy and look good.

Another tick off from the list of jobs

1985michael182 · Nov 27, 2020

Headlights were next.

Usual faded foggy clio lenses.

I flatted them with 1500 wetNdry then finished them off with a wet 3000 Trisact on the DA sander. Masked the main body of the headlight off. Adhesion promoter and 2 coats of Lacquer.

Look brand new.

And whilst I was fitting them Rob @CCF
Dropped me off a little present.

I had previously lightened and painted the steel bonnet which ended up planted in the windscreen and roof after I didnt close the bonnet catches so was pretty bent and misshaped. Even lightened it was 8.8kg. The fibreglass one was 5.3kg so a big saving over a standard weight one.

1985michael182 · Dec 1, 2020

Next job was clearly the bonnet.

Started by test fitting it. I had lined the wings up to the steel bonnet and headlights first and the bolted the fibreglass one on

It's not perfect but it never will be as it's not steel but atleast it's got no dents... or so I thought 🤦‍♂️ turns out there must be wanker dents in the mould bonnet.

But I got cracked on and can deal with them later.
Painted some black paint ontop of the bonnet pins and closed the bonnet onto them to give the the pin centres, and drilled them.

Then used the catch itself as a template to draw around and 95% of the material out. Just a case of test and adjust using a file to fine tune the fitment.

Once it fits mark your 6 bolt holes and drill them. To finish off the sharp/rough edges I just used some 180grit sand paper. Then boltcthem in. Test they lock into the bonnet pins and jobs a good en.

I had to over size the inside skin to make the catch fit properly.

Now to sort the wanker dents. They are called this as they are caused by w*****s who push down on the bonnet to close them, rather than letting the bonnet drop from 10/12 inches to close it.
I used Upol Fantastic, really nice filler to use. Spreads in nice and easy to sand. Suffers from a few pinhole but thats easily fixed after primer.

Removed it from the car once the filler was done. I blocked the full outside skin with 80grit then 180grit too remove any high imperfection in the panel. This also highlights and low spots to.
Then I prepped the bonnet for primer. Full inside was done with 180 and the edges with 180 and filler to fill the pin holes.

Then it's just a quick blow off, panel wipe it and go paint it.

Another tick in the box 👍

1985michael182 · Dec 7, 2020

Next we need to tone its belly up!

It has been covered in waxoil/underseal to help with anti corrosion but doesnt scream race car. See below

I started by stripping the underside components off to clear the way.
I got out the slow panelwipe and red scotch brite and scrubbed the waxoil within an inch of its life.
Once it was loose I used panel cloth to clean the mess off. Leaving nice clean factory anti stone chip covering.

Any bits of corrosion or loose stone chip I removed with the wire wheel. Once cleaned up I primed the bare metal with BMW's self etching primer. After this had dried I used seam sealer an a peice of scotch brite to mimic the texture finish of the stone chip a d to seal the repaired areas.

This requires a good 24hours to dry before painting over to let the solvent evaporate out of the sealer.
Again I used and hammerite hammered silver as topcoat. I gave it 2 good coats.

Looks like it's been sprayed, glad I spent the time to do it now. Once dry i began the rebuild the conponents

Alot if hard work but glad I saw it through

RSRowe · Dec 8, 2020

it's going to be a shame getting it dirty once you've finished 😄

1985michael182 · Dec 8, 2020

RSRowe said:
it's going to be a shame getting it dirty once you've finished 😄

I know tell me about It. Will be easy to keep on top of though.

Nafoff · Dec 10, 2020

At least it'll look the part the wrong way up too

1985michael182 · Dec 15, 2020

Now that the paint was dry I dropped it down onto wheel stands.

So I could get to the jacking points which were sat on the lift previously. Etch primer, seam sealer and hammered silver to finish.

After Croft last time I managed to ruin a brand new front wheel bearing so again a new one was fitted.

Because I had painted the full car the front bumper now didnt match the wings and bonnet so I prepped and painted that.

Then built it up, fitting the cup racer brake ducts, CMcomposites canard and splitter. Looking pretty mean with the headlight blanks!

With the bumper mounted I could now fit the deflector plates, the kit uses the original subframe mount and I used alloy rivets to mount the fronts to the chassis leg.

I needed to trim some bits where the wheels rubbed on the insides, belt sander worked a treat.

Hopefully it works and reduces the brake temps before I burn the paint completely off the calipers

Good days work done

Nafoff · Dec 19, 2020

This is looking so bloody good mate, really really well finished.
Should of used black rivets though

1985michael182 · Dec 19, 2020

Nafoff said:
This is looking so bloody good mate, really really well finished.
Should of used black rivets though

🤣 gives it that race car look, plus work 'donated' them so beggars cant be choosers

1985michael182 · Dec 22, 2020

On to the washer bottle. It had the larger bottle for the headlight washers.

so I bought a cup one and a new washer motor.
Because I have the fibre glass bonnet now the washer jets never fit properly so i decided to mount them on the wipers.
I bought a kit from Ebay which clips straight onto the wiper arm.
Then I just laid the pipes down the arms through the scuttle to a T peice and into the new pump.

Quick test and adjust the washer nozzle and finished.
Now the bonnet can go on and stay on.

Starting to see the finished product

1985michael182 · Dec 23, 2020

Later that day after work I refitted the canards

And then I moved on to something a bit special.
I have been playing around with the carbon hydrodip using different base colours and also candy red tint.
I wanted to try and do the diamonds in candy red carbon so I gave it a go and this is the results.

Think we can all agree they are bloody pretty. When the sun hits it it looks even better. That's a satin black base colour, 3d carbon hydrodip and red candy tint. I let it dry over night and then gave them 2 coats of BMW clear coat.

Next I had a number plate light wire to repair. Some Rupert had cut the Renault connector off and fitted 2 blade terminals. Obviously the connection didnt seal from the elements so the lamp terminals corrided and it stopped working.
So I bought another connector with a good amount of wire on it.

Used some heat shrink crimp terminals to repair the wires then wrapped it in tape. Job done.

Next I had ordered a pair of smoked led side repeaters so I fitted those. @Eddie555 pointed out to me they were the wrong way round and wanted to strobe forwards so I flipped them round after the video.
That's the lights complete.

Nafoff · Dec 28, 2020

Those badges are very nice. Proper #racetart

1985michael182 · May 9, 2021

Figured I best do an update....

So after the candy carbon badges I decided to flush the coolant system
As you can see it was pretty grim!!
I use a tool called a Snap on Rad kit plus, you vacuum the cooling system to -25psi leave it for 1 minute to vacuum check for leak and then open a tap which suck fresh coolant in. Easy and quick