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My Kangoo Cup Dci Build Thread

Lol. The donor car is a PH1 172, very clean and tidy, 79k, std apart from a nearly new Ktec stealth exhaust.

As I am already running clio 172 arms, hubs, shafts and brakes, that side of things should be a little more simple.

The reasons I went for a phase 1 are:

No FBW throttle, which should simplify interior wiring
Speedo drive gearbox (Kangoo uses the same)
Fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail with a return to tank (Kangoo DCI uses a feed and return)
And I got the car for a good price ;)

First thing this week will be to pull the engine, box and wiring from the clio. Then I am going to change the dephaser and fit a cambelt kit while it is all out as I think the dephaser is a little noisy when warm at idle and sounds like its tapping until you lift revs above 1250rpm ish.


Its all go go go at last!
 
very interesting. and good to see some one do it. had thought of it. then decided no
 
I'd be happy with the PH1 172 you bough as a donor, haha, the van looks cool though, go for the stealth look, so it looks like a standard(ish) van then thrash people. I'll be sure to look at this thread again
 
such a cool idea :)will be sick when done.

although they are the ugliest van known to man kind. but you've made it cool so its all good.
 
So, started a few bits and bobs on my donor car today, so here is a quick pic before things get dirty over the next week.

7857993770_b1cb1e7ea2.jpg

clio by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
 
Well, as the dephaser is a little noisy when warm, I will be changing the cam belt, aux belt, tensioners and dephaser when the engine is out for ease of access etc.

Does anyone local fancy renting me a pulley locking tool?

I dont want to do it when the engine is in because thats just daft, and I have done belts on 172s before, just not a dephaser.

Tea and biscuits on me if anyone can do me a solid :)
 
personally think you should rebuild the block as you're having it out anyways and its not like you're in a rush
 
Owen_m said:
personally think you should rebuild the block as you're having it out anyways and its not like you're in a rush
Click to expand...

Why go to all that expense and labour?! That seems utterly pointless when 2nd hand engines can be had for under £250.
 
That's true. But if he decides to go for more power he'd be in good stead then. Also I imagine he would do the rebuild him self.
 
Owen, you got to think, he's got we wants cheap, he can rag the nuts off it all day long and when it broken, another perferctly ran in engine can be found like dan said.

Its not a k9k engine rebuild ;)
 
DCI RAZ said:
Owen, you got to think, he's got we wants cheap, he can rag the nuts off it all day long and when it broken, another perferctly ran in engine can be found like dan said.

Its not a k9k engine rebuild ;)
Click to expand...

True point mate !. I'm just a bit obsessive about things like that lol
 
Lol, no point in rebuilding it. When I go down the forced induction route, I will just pull the lump back out, not that bad of a job really if I am not in a rush.

Damn dephaser locking tool is the problem.....
 
Well folks, loads of progress on the donor car today, which I will get onto shortly, but here is a quick pic of how the van sits now since I fitted the coilovers and dropped the rear beam a little more as I have not uploaded any pics in ages! Excuse it being dirty ;)

7862876076_d3ff1ca5d6.jpg

Van by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
 
So, took the donor down to the unit this morning and started work. Its quite a clean phase 1 to be fair, the shell is mint with no sign of rust at all, engine looks like it has never been touched and the interior is just as tidy! Shame to pull it apart, but its for a good cause ;)

Few pics.
7865912364_78b2138985.jpg

1 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
7865908738_cf8431084c.jpg

3 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
7865910726_ec953f52b1.jpg

2 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
 
We started with the engine, running gear, wiring and ecu at around 1pm today.

First point was to make a little space by removing the front bumper and wheels.
7865906776_0ceed19631.jpg

4 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
 
So with all that out the way we dropped the exhaust manifold out the way and removed the wiring from the starter and lambda sensor.

Quick pic, more or less the same as above.
7865899508_dfe5ec1c7c.jpg

7 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
 
All good so far :)

Next on the list was the wiring loom, including every part at the front end, so engine, gearbox, lights, indicators, carbon canister, aircon, heater box, ABS pump and sensors.

Last thing was to pull the lower arms with struts, hubs and brakes still attached, both drive shafts, gear linkage and engine mounts and the beef was out!
7865902356_69a0b89d7c.jpg

6 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
 
Hoping today will go well. It's dash and interior wiring loom out......

Few bits to finish under the bonnet, manifold and cat to remove, and a few parts of the and loom etc.
 
Today started very well.

Removed the exhaust manifold, cat, antiroll bar in no time.
We then moved onto any odd bits of the engine bay loom including ABS wiring. Also removed fuel lines where they split under the drivers feet.

We then moved on to the dash............
Steering wheel and surround removed no problem, same with all the stalks, ignition barrel and a few other bits.
 
Next was to remove wiring from the centre dash screen, dash speakers, heater control rods and cables and the steering column. That lot came out no problem, 4 bolts and the UJ and out she came.
7873531450_4cfea600b8.jpg

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
 
We had to ditch the comfort of working while sat in the front seats due to needing to remove as much of the wiring loom in 1 piece as possible, so out came the seats, carpet and plastics from around the handbrake and gearstick. Dash was nearly out!
7873534890_335ca10eae.jpg

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
 
We unplugged the door looms and removed the 2 T15/20 Torq screws at either side that hold the wiring in place, disconnected the loom on both sides where it runs towards the back of the car, removed the dash, unscrewed the fuse box and UCH and called it a day.
7873538926_18b4de6e40.jpg

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr
 
Had an annoying problem when pulling the dash out.

Part of the wiring loom to the Cobra alarm boxes was wrapped around the passenger side air vent pipework that is plastic welded to the back of the dash. Stupid design / idea. So i had to cut part of the loom in 2 places to get the dash out, and rejoin the cables, which was a nightmare.
7873546934_267bce8baf_c.jpg

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

If anybody has any idea what these cables feed from that would be great, they run to the 2 multi-pin connectors that plug into the cobra control box.
 
Just seen this after you PM'd me mate

That's not the same alarm as on my 172/182's - they don't have a control box in the car they just have a single plug going into a siren/box under the scuttle panel :(
 
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