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My Renaultsport Clio 172 Cup restoration project



  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Hi there


So for quite sometime I have been looking at Citroen Saxo VTS, Peugeot 106 GTi and of course Renaultsport Clio's.

Though there were a few unmolested Saxo VTS going, well I say few, more like a couple which were not rotten or modified too silly, they had starship miles, all generally 130k plus, but were under £1000, but out of the three the Saxo was my least favourite.

So as those who know me and by my nickname on other forums (Gibbo205) will know I've owned four 205's two which were XS models and two GTI's, a 1.6 and q 1.9. So I did not want to go back here, plus a good example is over £10,000 now, so I was looking at 106 GTI's, with a firm favourite been sunflower yellow or diablo red. Unfortunately I missed out on a very clean Diablo red PH2 at £2600, was a bit too cheap. I did find a stunning sunflower 106 GTi but at £6000 it is simply over priced, the previous owner I chatted to and discovered the said garage gave him roughly £3500 for it and he had tried selling it privately at £3500 with no takers, which was a shame as I felt £3500 was a fair price and I'd have taken it. At £6000 it is too much, I did offer the garage £4000 but they refused, saying no discount which is fair enough as for sure in another couple of years I can see a very spot on 106 GTi in a rare colour fetching such money. The 106 GTi was my favourite for the looks and old school vibe!

So I moved onto Clio's I had narrowed it down to only wanting a 172 Cup, for the simple reason it was the lightest sporting no abs, no AC, thinner glass, wider tracks and lighter smaller wheels along with a basic cloth interior. Weighing in at 1011-1025kg depending where you look made it considerably lighter than the regular 172 PH2 by a good 90kg and 182 cups are around 1090kg. The power deficit is of course quite easy to make up by fitting the 182 manifold, cat and doing a remap.

As such I've been searching for a few months, discovering that most Clio 172 cups have either rotten away, blown up, been turned into track/race cars or spilt by silly modifications. The only really spot on examples fully restored are selling in the 4-6k region but are still quite high mileage at over 80,000 miles.

Then I spotted an advert on gumtree, a very poorly written advert, no pictures and even had it listed as Monaco blue which is not a cup colour, so to many would dismissed it not as a cup. What grabbed my attention was the car was 1 owner (yes still original owner) and had only done 54,000 miles, even better it seemed a very competitively priced £1950. :)

So I checked MOT history, which confirmed mileage and showed it had been in use since new covering 2000-4000 miles per year, I then completed an HPI check, all clear.

Next step was to email/ring the guy, asking on service history and this is where it went downhill, whilst the car was within warranty it was serviced by Renault, but once it was beyond 3yr old he has had his mechanic mate give it a yearly oil change and that is it. He has then relied on MOT failure/advisory and acted on the fails to get car through its MOT. Nothing more or less!

Yes that is right this 16yr old Clio 172 cup has never had a belts or pulley change in its life, this should be done every 72,000 miles or five years, the owners reasoning was because it has not done 72,000 miles yet and he only uses the car to commute too and from his place of work which is only 4 miles away.

I informed him that the car is due a major belts, pulley change along with service, plugs, all fluids and I'd be lucky to see much change from a grand and as such if the car is in good condition I'd offer £1750, he accepted.

So I went to view the vehicle and the condition in some ways was excellent and in others very poor.


Positives
  • Totally standard car apart from a replacement exhaust (not performance)
  • Unmarked interior, it is spotless inside
  • No signs of corrosion anywhere, behind seals, around fuel cap, behind arches, boot floor and underside, the shell seems absolutely spotless
  • Original glass throughout
  • New brake disc & pads all round
  • 1 owner & 54,000 miles
  • Drove fantastic, felt very tight, no knocks, clunks or bangs, kept revs low due to old belts
  • All electrics functioning, including alarm and original stereo
  • MOT & taxed, not been left standing for months
  • Original tool kit still in boot
  • No wear to steering wheel thumb grips or seat bolsters
  • Price


Negatives
  • Dephaser pulley is very loud, very noisy, diesel aka tractor noise
  • Some minor scratches to paint, a DA / Polish should resolve 90% of them
  • Paint chippings on door edge, ideally needs a very good touch up / repair or respray
  • 4 different tyres and nearly all of them losing air
  • 4 heavily corroded alloys
  • Cloudy headlights
  • Cracked and faded number plates
  • High rear brake light not working and gone yellow
  • Oil leak or power steering leak, or both, at front bottom of engine



So after some haggling I got him down from my original £1750 offer to a price we were both hapoy to shake on.

I then asked the question, so why did you buy the stripped version of the Clio and his response was simply because it was cheaper than the AC & leather version of the car, he simply wanted a fast ish car but had a budget, in his ownership it has mainly been used for trips to work and odd road trip, he also said its never let him down apart from failing some MOT's.

So as the rear tyres looked low on air, I requested if he would put some air in for me. :)


c1.jpg


c2.jpg












Drove the car home, keeping it in 5th and the speed around 60-70mph to keep the revs low, did give it a gentle squeeze at 60mph in 5th and the car picks up and accelerates quickly, though I only went upto 75mph, again due to belts been a ticking time bomb.

Once onto the country lanes, again just 5th gear but throwing it around a little, testing the brakes etc. The car feels like it wants to oversteer (maybe blown rear dampers) and the brake feel and modulation was excellent but felt a bit squirmy, more on that shortly.

So arrive at home, car returned 48mpg, not bad that, so checked the tyres, turns out front passenger side was down to 12psi, so that explains the squirmy feeling. Also all four tyres are different and oe of the fronts is a Winter tyre, no doubt also explains squirm under braking, it was also that Winter tyre at 12psi, as if Winters are not soft enough as it is.


Got it home, took a few pictures:


c3.jpg


c4.jpg


c5.jpg






So yep three blue cars on the drive way, not that you have much choice with a 172 cup as they only came in blue and silver with silvers been under 70 left on the road.

You can see the original Renault window stickers still present (I shall probably leave these as adds to the originality of the car) and the paint missing from door edge and of course the shocking condition of the tyres and clouding of the head lamps.

That is where the car shall stay now for a week or so until it is booked in for its belts, pulleys and full service, plus some restoration work.

So you ask why?

Well I wanted a car that was different from the other two, namely lightweight, FWD and a true old school hot hatch vibe, no ABS etc. though my M3 also has an ABS disable toggle switch as well as ABS on sticky tyres and on track is more annoying than useful to me as I think sticky compound tyres and much bigger brakes upset it.

Also these kinds of cars are moving up in value, this car needs an easy £!500 putting into it for it to be classed as a clean example, of course with the advantage of one owner and low miles once its perfect could fetch 4-5k in current climate, but I've not purchased it to quickly flip it and make a couple of grand.

The purchase is done as something to enjoy, but at the same time restore to it former full glory of when it was new, put some miles on it but not too many and then in say five years if the values are rocketing or have then maybe sell it, if the values go the way of 205 GTi then in ten years this in perfect condition with the low miles and low owners could easily fetch 20k. If that does not happen, then 2k, but the end result I had a lot of fun, smiles and grins, plus with this car I can actually keep my foot pinned to floor and not risk going to jail like in M3 or SVR.

This shall be my build thread, I shall of course be posting in the Renaultsport owners thread as well, but I wanted a nice tidy location to keep my progress and updates with the car, just as with my M3 track build thread. :)


P.S. I got the car a few days ago, so some restoration work and purchases have already commenced, those shall be posted to this thread over next day or so.
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
So as I said I got the car a few days ago and posted this up on my primary forums which is Overclockers UK forum in the motors section.

As such first step, fix the headlights!

So yesterday removed old scabby plates and all washed yesterday along with arches cleansed and tried a quick polish on drivers headlight, came up quite well but not perfect, plus a quick hoover inside:

r5.jpg


r8.jpg


r7.jpg










So tonight a bit of wet and dry, polish and wax for the headlights to properly restore them:

Before (drivers side already polished):


r1.jpg


r2.jpg




After:


r9.jpg


r11.jpg


r10.jpg








Also spray some brake cleaner around the engine bay to get rid of grease, oil and dirt, plus a quick wipe over, by no means a proper clean:


r6.jpg





Very happy with results on the headlights, in person its a dramatic improvement. :)
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Some better pictures I took this morning, a really nice improvement:

h13.jpg


h12.jpg


h11.jpg





Hi there

So some further updates and questions:

1. Wiped down interior and all is well, no marks, burns, scratches, spotless inside. But its all rather grey, any kind of recommended trim restorer anyone recommends as its one of the things I don't have in my collection of car cleaning products.
2. The battery is not fastened down by anything, so you can move it and I can't see any kind of bracket to clamp it, obviously it can't escape as its in a space not much bigger than it but batteries should be clamped down, so if mine missing something?
3. Power steering reservoir is empty, guess the leak at front of engine is power steering from PS pipe, though when I drove it home steering felt fine and was quiet. What fluid do they take, I've got ATF, CHF and slick 50 in my collection.
4. The ECU bracket that is bolted to strut tower is snapped just after the bolt it wobbles, can't go anywhere, can it be welded? Assume so, otherwise I guess nothing that some gorilla tape won't fix either.
5. I think engine mount upper left is shot, I can move engine back and forth a few mm with my hands, no knocks, but there is movement but maybe there is meant to be some, not an issue as I ordered new mount today.
6. The front plastic grill / shroud is faded, I've put some trim restorer on to good effect, but they are not permanent. Same for lower plastic grill and foglight surrounds, do these all remove easily as probably best to just give them a coat of matt or satin black paint.
7. Scuttle panel and wipers are heavily faded, again easy to remove as can just paint too?


That is it, they are all minor little niggles, power steering fluid been void is an issue as it seems dry but steering sounds fine, so see what score is there, no doubt pipe leaking at rack end.


In better news the brand new original dampers, top mounts and powerflex rear beam bushes arrived today. :)

dampers.jpg



Got loads of other parts arriving over next few days, in with specialist Birchdown Auto Services next Friday for all belts, service and all other parts fitting issues I find, plus what they find.
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
•It is a pretty grey drab interior to be honest!



•Yes there should be a clamp on the right side between the battery and the fuse box: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-...enic-Espace-Trafic-Modus-Kangoo-/261187050664



• Not good! It uses ATF, Dexon 2 is what Renault recommend.
•A leak on the PAS isn't ideal as the high pressure PAS pipe is expensive (I found this out last week).
•Common areas to look, just near the alternator there is a PAS pipe that heads directly down andthere is a PAS pressure switch (grey) on the pipe, if you're lucky they fail at the switch.
•Unless its the pump itself, it will be the high pressure pipe like mine (circa £200 pipe), its the the pipe that heads directly down after the pressure switch, goes over to the gearbox, then over the gearbox, back down and into the rack. Nightmare to change and the Cups have a specific pipe.



Standard feature. Simplest fix is to sandwich the remaining bit of metal between two oversize washers and bolt it down.



Easiest if you take the bumper off, but its all simple push clips.




Pretty easy to remove - remove the rubber seal and there are some pop clips on each side. The drivers one is easy as there is no interference from the wipers. Passenger side you have to remove the wiper blades, normally one of the blades will be corroded to the spindle, so you will need a puller, something like this:

https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-ball-joint-separator-cup



Just don't drive it empty, I did half a lap at Snetterton (slow pace) after I noticed the smoke pouring at the back and the PAS pump has already died.

Thank you!
Battery clamp ordered!
Yes the majority of the oil is all on PS line near the alternator, further along to PS reservoir the pipes are dry. Maybe is the switch then.

Got quite a collection of parts coming for it, as parts arrive I shall photo and post them up. The specialist says they can do it all in a day, hope so as its mounting up:

- Major service
- All belts including dephaser, accessory pulleys, crank bolt, water pump etc.
- Rocker cover re-seal
- Upper engine mount (probably fit this myself if it arrives soon enough) along with powerflex yellow insert
- Gearbox mount
- Dogbone mount
- Track rod ends both sides (inner and outer), as NSF inner rack end was advisory on MOT, so just refreshing the pair
- Fit new dampers all round along with fresher cup or cooks springs (got a set of 20k miles cup springs for £12) and bidding on a set of 5000 mile cooks at £70) along with new top mounts
- Powerflex rear beam bushes
- New reservoir header tank
- Fix power steering issue (for now I shall add some dexron 2 and some slick50 to get it to specialist)
- New HT leads (probably fit myself, not required but £25 from ECP with Summer35 code)
- Gearbox oil change
- New plates (fit myself)
- New upper brake light (fit myself)
- New clear side repeaters (fit myself)
- New door strips and bullets as mine are scratch (found a set for £20)
- Fuel filter



The above should freshen the car up nicely and in theory will remedy all and any engine bay issues the car maybe has along with a good percentage of the suspension/bushes refreshed.
Anything the specialist finds on top shall be done on the day or at a later date.

This should make the car spot on and most of all not a ticking time bomb and safe to drive.

This weekend I plan to remove inlet manifold, air box, battery and give that area of the engine bay a good cleaning and check over. I shall then spray the inlet manifold in silver along with tidying everything else up and re-fitting. May also spray the front grills and fog surrounds in satin black or with black plastidip.

Then in coming weeks:
- All wheels repaired in silver
- set of AD08R's all round

Then I shall probably get the brakes fully refreshed and conditions all round, so Brembo HC disc all round with a good pad, like Lorraines performance option, along with the calipers all cleaned and replaced if necessary.
Then any suspension bush not refreshed, shall also be done, so front wishbone bushes, anti-roll bar bushes, drop links and any other bushes.


That in theory should fully refresh the entire drivetrain, suspension, brakes and have the car driving, handling and stopping as it did once it left the showroom, but with some additional grip from the Yoko tyres.

Then body work, touch or repaint the damaged/chips areas, then a full professional detail and correction, to get the exterior looking as new.

Don't think I have missed anything. :)



Quick picture of how the front grill and fog surrounds came up after an external trim restorer, before then after:

BEFORE:
h13.jpg


AFTER:
face.jpg






P.S. I noticed my car has a rear wiper, yet I notice some cups do not. Was rear wipe an option, easy to remove and if so where can I buy the blanking plate?
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Looks great! Those headlights need more though mate, you can get them crystal clear


Yes I only had upto 1200 or 1500 grit, then moved onto compound, polish then wax.

I shall get some 2000, 2500 and 3000 grit in my stocks, then give them another go, will probably grab the Meguiars headlight restorer kit too simply for the fact it comes with a proper spray to sell and UV protect them so they last a few years and not weeks/months. :)
 

Louis

I Park Like a C**t
ClioSport Club Member
Yes I only had upto 1200 or 1500 grit, then moved onto compound, polish then wax.

I shall get some 2000, 2500 and 3000 grit in my stocks, then give them another go, will probably grab the Meguiars headlight restorer kit too simply for the fact it comes with a proper spray to sell and UV protect them so they last a few years and not weeks/months. :)
Think I went as low as 800 on mine.
Don't bother with a meg kit imho. I machine polished mine ages ago and they've stayed clear since. Just get a nice wax to put on them after using a polishing compound
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Yeah I did a very quick 400 dry, then 800 wet and finished with a 1200 wet.
So to perfect them need to give them a 1500, 2000 and 2500 wet also, then compound, polish and wax.

Popping to Halfords today for more supplies, got a few jobs this weekend to do:
- More headlight polishing, shall polish rears too
- Removal of intake, intake manifold, battery, good bay clean, spray the inlet manifold etc.
- Rear wiper delete
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Hi there


Went Halfords today to get supplies to further restoring the car, grabbed a Meguiars clay bar as a lot of contaminants on the paint so might get round to claying the car tomorrow. will then give a compound, polish and wax by hand when I get round to that, priority first is the mechanical stuff.
I also grabbed some 1500, 2000 and 2500 sand paper, also the meguiars headlight restoration kit G2000 was on offer at £1800, so grabbed that long with some engine degreaser, dexron 2, silver VHT paint, matt black, so tomorrows plan is paint front grill, degrease engine bay, paint inlet manifold etc.
Also added the Dexron 2 seems the reservoir was just very low but not empty, the leak is near the alternator so maybe pressure valve, specialist can sort.


So I had another go at headlights first with Meguiars pad and cleaner, then 1500 grit wet, 2000 grit wet and finally 2500 grit wet. Then a spray over with Meguiars UV protectant. WOW have they come up amazing, will grab better photos tomorrow once grill is painted but even in the dark you can see the extra depth, its another transformation:

lights.jpg



Also polished up the rear lights as well, though those were pretty fine, but some compound, polish and wax later, still an improvement, no pictures I am afraid.


Another parts delivery today, just a small one:

parts.jpg



- Yellow smelly bloke, got one in M3 too, suits colour scheme.
- Official 172 cup badges that go on the door pillars
- New gear surround as current one is ripped
- Updated top mount nuts, to go with new dampers, top mounts that arrived yesterday
- Got a rear upper brake light, but as previously mentioned its wrong one.



So plenty to crack on with tomorrow. :)
 

Clio_fool

ClioSport Club Member
Damn you found real diamond in the s**t pile that is gumtree. Well done sir!
As it still has a genuine cup splitter on I'd recommend leaving the standard springs in and not lowering it. Trust me you do not want to be asking how much they cost to replace.
 

mintno1

ClioSport Club Member
  Ph1 172 / Mk1 Valver
Looks like you grabbed a bargain, loved my cup, you have made a great start on it, looking forward to seeing what happens next ?
 

Coops Mk1

ClioSport Club Member
  Lots of Scrap...
Great purchase and should be lovely when restored, few quid to invest but cracking base to work from
 

yeecup

ClioSport Club Member
  mk8Fiesta ST,172 cup
Great find. I also found my cup on gumtree for £1000 just over a year ago. Was overdue belts and needed brakes and mot. Spent a few ££££ since then but I love it. Great cars and look forward to updates, great work so far.
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Hi there

Managed to get quite a few jobs done on the car today, plus more items arrived along with the new number plates.

So today manage to get done:
- Front upper and lower grills painted with plastiip to freshen them up
- Further cleaning on engine bay, decided not to paint inlet manifold but instead gave it some elbow grease and a real good cleaning.
- Carpets fully cleaned, seats all wiped down and then the interior trim all gone over with Meguiars interior detailor
- All the glass cleaned inside and out with Autofinesse glass cleaner
- New plates fitted
- Cup 172 badges fitted
- New gear gator fitted


Some pictures:

s9.jpg


s8.jpg


s6.jpg


s1.jpg


s4.jpg


s5.jpg


s2.jpg


s7.jpg


s3.jpg




Still lots to do but the car is really starting to look better, also the car still has all the original glass which with a Cup 172 is very important as they featured thinner lighter glass to save additional weight. Only downside is the front windscreen is scratched from where previous owners must allowed wipers to become so deteriorated they scratched the glass whilst wiping on passenger side. Got the inside cleaned up, looking much better now and managed to remove all the residue from the tax disc holder.

The interior does not need so much now it comes up really nice and been a one owner car with low mileage it really does show as the seats and steering wheel show very little wear whereas these cars soon show wear to the seats and thumb grips on steering wheel.

All I want to do on the interior is get the gear number H pattern back on top of the gear stick as its faded.


The exterior still needs a lot of work, next step is to remove the side strips and bullets to give a real good clean behind those, along with cleaning the bullets and strips themselves, wax behind and refit. Then get a touch up kit and fix the loss of paint on door edges, thankfully only down to primer so no corrosion or rust, so get all that fixed. Then see if I can polish out the minor scratches around the car, followed by a clay, polish and sealant.

Also the fresher original cup springs arrived today and the Powerflex engine mount, just waiting on upper mount to arrive now so I can remove the old, clean that area up and refit new mount:


s10.jpg



So brand new original dampers with much fresher springs, powerflex rear beam limiters/bushes will perfect the handling.

More updates to come. :)
 

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yeecup

ClioSport Club Member
  mk8Fiesta ST,172 cup
Would recommend eibach sportlines or cook sports springs as standard they sit far too high.
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Hi there


So some more work on the car today, started by removing the door trims and yep quite a bit of dirt behind them:

d1.jpg


d3.jpg



All cleaned and waxed, then re-fitted:

d2.jpg


d4.jpg









Then decided to prepare the cars paint for correction and polishing which will come in a few weeks, as such washed it and then gave the car some clay bar action, oh my was it covered in crap and remember I have washed the car a couple of times now including treatment with fall out remover, goes to show how effective a clay bar is:


d5.jpg


d6.jpg










Car was then washed again and I gave it a very quick going over with Aqua Wax simply as its so easy to apply, spray on wet car, wipe down and buff, literally five minutes and gives protection for a few weeks, car is starting to look really good now:


d9.jpg


d7.jpg


d8.jpg




Of course then it rained, but now the car actually beads even with a basic wax coating:


d10.jpg


d11.jpg


d12.jpg




Next step on the bodywork will be putting the Chipex kit to work to see how well it can deal with the deep scratches and paint chips, I will also remove the sills at somepoint soon as well to clean behind those. :)
 

yeecup

ClioSport Club Member
  mk8Fiesta ST,172 cup
Great work and attention to detail. Paint correction and wheel refurb will make a huge difference.
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Hi there

Another day, a few more deliveries. :D

So the original door strips were damaged (deep scratches which been plastic be hard to repair, plus they were heavily faded. So I came across a used set on ebay for £20, but in better condition, they arrived today and were like new, the bullets were also cleaner as well, so got those fitted and compared old with new:

b5.jpg


b4.jpg



New ones fitted:

b3.jpg



I did the other side as well, much fresher. :)







Also a box of goodies from ECP:


b6.jpg



- Coolant bottle
- New wheel bolts
- Clear side repeaters
- New HT leads
- Rear number plate lense
- Battery clamp
- Probably some stuff I forgot!


So as the battery was not secure, I got that sorted:

Before:

b2.jpg



After:

b1.jpg




Just small jobs today but bit by bit it all adds up. :)


Tomorrow I shall give the fast orange hand wish with pumice a try mixed with some meguiars ultimate compound to see if it really works at removing scratches from glass, shall let you know. :)
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Hi there

So a quick job this morning, as it required no tools, well you need you driving licence or anything that is a similar size, credit card etc.

Popped out the old grotty amber side repeaters and fitted some white/clear ones, also fully cleaned them up before fitting:

l2.jpg


l1.jpg


l3.jpg



It is one of those cheap (£10) and easy modifications to do which really freshens up an old car. :)
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
More deliveries for the project:


g5.jpg



Full synthetic Renault approved engine and gearbox oil. :)





g4.jpg




New latest revision wishbones which have additional camber, new ball balljoints, now engine mount (more mounts too arrive), fresh wipers all round, new dust boots for new front dampers. :)





So the previous owner at some point must of allowed the wipers to fail resulting in bear metal wipers scraping the glass and thus the glass is deeply scratched. I've attempted to polish out with zero success they are just too deep. Then I tried what I watched on youtube which is use Fast Orange hand wash with pumice mixed with some compound or polish, about 70% fast orange and 30% compound, then use with a 3M polishing pad on a rotary. Well I only have a sponge on a drill end so not proper polishing pad but better than trying to do by hand.

Before on drivers side:

g3.jpg



After on drivers side:

g2.jpg



A vast improvement for sure, it is still there but it is about 65% gone, this was around an hour of constant polishing, another hour will probably improve it a lot or get the proper 3M polishing pad and a rotary.








Passenger side was even worse, really deep scratches and a lot more off them, not just on the outer radius:

g1.jpg



After on passenger side:

g6.jpg



An improvement, about 50% reduced, but needs a lot more effort but after constant polishing for a couple of hours I had enough and now want to get some dinner. Shall try to get proper 3M pads compatible with my drill and see if that helps makes progress faster.




So a question for the Renault experts, I want the car to handle, steer, grip like it would of new, so far I have:
- new cup dampers
- new top mounts
- revised upper top mount nuts
- new grams springs
- new wishbones
- new balljoints
- new anti roll bar bushes and drop links
- new engine & gearbox mounts
- Powerflex upper engine mount insert
- Powerflex rear beam inserts
- new AD08R tyres


Have I missed any bushes that are key, any items I should be replacing on steering, rack etc. to make sure its all tight?
 

Brigsy

ClioSport Club Member
  T.Turbo
I would add new genuine Renault inner tie rods (cup specific length) and tie rod ends (genuine Renault or lemforder) to the list whilst your there.
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
I would add new genuine Renault inner tie rods (cup specific length) and tie rod ends (genuine Renault or lemforder) to the list whilst your there.

Ah knew I forgot something, I do have the following:
- Starline inner track rods
- Starline outer track rods
- Starling track rods boots


They are ready for me to collect from ECP, are you saying these won't actually fit? If that is the case do you have a link for the ones which will fit my 172 cup please?
 

Amos91

Honorary Member
ClioSport Club Member
Most motorfactors supply inner tie rods that are the wrong length. Get genuine inners and lemforder ends.

Last bit off that list is steering rack bushes. Powerflex is the cheaper option, I've just changed mine.
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3
Most motorfactors supply inner tie rods that are the wrong length. Get genuine inners and lemforder ends.

Last bit off that list is steering rack bushes. Powerflex is the cheaper option, I've just changed mine.

Hey buddy to make sure I order right stuff, can you confirm this is what I need please:

Inner:
https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/special-offers/clio-172-182-track-rod-inner-kit/

Outer, left & right:
https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/special-offers/clio-172-182-track-rod-end/


Are those right ones, they do not mention cup, just say fits PH 172 & 182.

Found the steering rack bushes. :)
 

Brigsy

ClioSport Club Member
  T.Turbo
Ah knew I forgot something, I do have the following:
- Starline inner track rods
- Starline outer track rods
- Starling track rods boots


They are ready for me to collect from ECP, are you saying these won't actually fit? If that is the case do you have a link for the ones which will fit my 172 cup please?

172 cup are longer than stock. Ring up Rpd and they can confirm which ones you need. Firstline also do an aftermarket one to suit but they are a carry on to get and not much cheaper than genuine Renault. You want quality tie rod ends too oem, lemforder or trw
 
  Ftype SVR & E46 M3


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