New Cambelt Problem

[Fred@BTM]

torque settings in autodata are still incorrect IIRC

i "can" do the job in 2.5 hours (bumper off method) but when people are paying over £600 i like to take my time

 

[MartinR]

It starts leaking.

Mine never leaked it made a racket instead (dephaser type noise)

 

[phate23]

torque settings in autodata are still incorrect IIRC

i "can" do the job in 2.5 hours (bumper off method) but when people are paying over £600 i like to take my time

I'll have a look tommorrow, Im buying one of the trade-ins at work.The customer has part ex'd a nice 182 with both the cups for a Insignia 160cdti with a kit on and I cant find any evidence to suggest the belt has been done or not.

If you dont mind what would you recommend changing. My works copy of autodata says the dephaser if it moves and the crankshaft spocket if its the keyless type,bolts regardless of the type too. also people say water pump,aux belt and tensioners. This will cost a fortune with all the tools and if you've got it stripped you may as well change the dephaser while your at it.

I had a clio valver many moons ago and the belt was a doddle on that,room was a bit on the tight side but a really simple job,

 

[Fred@BTM]

waterpumps are quite rare, i've done maybe 30 ever

dephaser is a must plus the seal kit that goes behind both pullies - £25 for that, so is the aux kit (FULL KIT)

crank pulley info is wrong, reuse the non keyway pulley, no need to replace plus it cam be a t**t to time up if its keyed

we did a vaxhaull master tech's car 2 weeks ago funnily enough, his exact words were "f**k doing that job!"

the process of fitting the belt isn't mentioned in autodata, you have to fit it in a weird order to get the plastic lower cover in/out without breaking it, then the belt need to be tensioned, the whole lot rotated backwards, recheck tension, lock it all up, tourqe it, turn the engine over reinsert tools yada yada yada

 

[phate23]

Im not a master tech, but I wont be put off just because its french Im suprised a mechanic would admit defeat like that lol. I like a challenge. Ive done timing chains and belt replacments on all the vauxhall units, The only thing that would put me off is if the price of all the tools actually outweights the cost of labour at a specialist.Even then I'd think i would have missed out on some fun if I went down that route. What addition of Autodata do you have? is it a cd based one on or is it the timing belt book?

 

[Fred@BTM]

we've got the latest CD, plus full renault manuals (which funnily enough are wrong too in places, translated from french)

 

[The Fatty]

I have heard back from the garage and they said that the timing is spot on and that a hose had come loose and this was what was causing the revs to fluctuate and the car to almost stall. Does this sound likely or should I be worried?

Thanks

Yes this would happen if a sensing pipe was pulled off, such as the one going to the MAF sensor.

i have picked it up from the garage. It is definately much better now than it was before. However now when i stop the revs are about 1000 then slowly dropped to about 8000 then do not move.

Is there a way of telling if the timing is still out?

Thanks for all the help with this.

I think you mean 800RPM and not 8000RPM! Its normal for it to drop to 1000ish, then settle to 800, especially when the engine is cold. If the timing was out, you would know straight away because it would be down on power - put your foot down and see if it feels like its got enough power. As a rough guide, you should be able to do a 0-60mph sprint in under 7 seconds when the car is hot (allowing you to rev it a bit higher). If you cant do 0-60mph in under 10 seconds, then i would say your timing is definitely off. However from what you have described, I dont think it is.

 

[The Fatty]

i would have had the water pump changed while they had it all off. i spent a fortune when i had mine done and had everything changed including all vvt gubbins. a bit over the top but piece of mind and i dont have to have it done again.

And with all that being done, you still dont have peace of mind with the way these engines like to drop a valve!

 

[jack_davey]

renault manuals (which funnily enough are wrong too in places, translated from french)

On that subject I don't think it actually gives you a torque setting for the lower idler in the timing belt section!
It says the upper one is 45Nm, then you look in the engine builders manual, and it says 50Nm!

 

[phate23]

I havent had a chance to look at our timing belt book yet, but if there is a conflict of info regards to tourque settings, I think its a case of might is right lol.

Is yours a genuine autodata CD?. I work at a Franchised dealer and they charged the company about £400 a year for that, and when the licence expired £400 the next year. it wasnt even pay your £400 and then your subsequent updates were extra,finally they stopped buying it and just got a T-belt book for "Foriegners" as we call them in the workshop.

I work for Vauxhall the system we use TIS2WEB is quite good the old tis2000 was loads better thou,whats the renault one called?

 

[phate23]

ive got the book now the guide rollers are stated @ 50nm tensioner @28nm camshaft locking tool nuts @ 80nm exhaust sprocket new nuts @80nm +86d and inlet sprocket @100nm blanking plug 25nm and crankshaft 40nm + 110d. does look tricky.

 

[Dan519]

renault manual is full of mistakes and contradictions too. I use 20nm then 115deg +/-15deg for the crank pulley.

It also says to refit the lower cover before fitting the crank pulley, which isn't necessary at all

 

[Paulstewart20]

Is this right for 172 ph2 on eBay
262170995422 I have just bought it but just realised its different to the forum pictures

 

[Paulstewart20]

Anyone?

 

[bloke]

Anyone?

have you posted about this somewhere else?

 

[Paulstewart20]

Yeah but I'm not getting any answers off of anyone I just inquired about a ew locking tool from renault but was told they don't sell them which I found very hard to believe

 

[RichieJA]

No idea why people don't use a specialist.
They are no more expensive than a normal garage lol and its piece of mind

 

[Paulstewart20]

I'm doing it myself as this is a track car and 99% of maintenance/repairs will be carried out by me I'm fairly capable i have the engine out now ready to do the work although never worked on a clio sport engine hence why im asking questions and why would I pay someone hundreds of pounds when I could do it myself with only cost of bits the whole point of forums is people can group there knowledge together

 

[RichieJA]

My comment is based on the 100's of threads on garages making a mess of it, buy cheap pay twice blah blah, if your confident enough and have the tools go for it,

 

[GrahamS]

I'm doing it myself as this is a track car and 99% of maintenance/repairs will be carried out by me I'm fairly capable i have the engine out now ready to do the work although never worked on a clio sport engine hence why im asking questions and why would I pay someone hundreds of pounds when I could do it myself with only cost of bits the whole point of forums is people can group there knowledge together

Most people will recommend using genuine Renault tools as non-gen will bend causing the cam timing to be out. Renault do sell the tools but from what I understand there aren't any available at the moment! I'm after some too. They're about £150 brand new.

I would do it myself and wouldn't hesitate. It's not a specialist job at all for know how, but the specialists are the only ones who have the genuine tools!

 

[Paulstewart20]

Yeah I agree shame about those tools maybe someone on here could hire them out which would be a fantastic thread anyway getting back to my original post does anyone know if the tool I have bought is the wrong one it looks to me like the 1.4-1.6 version but the advert definitely said f4r

 

[Paulstewart20]

Also I take it the original tools would have a renault stamp on them to identify as original renault

 

[GrahamS]

Yeah it looks like the right tools. The large plate should have a load of cogs with it. The horseshoe is the one that bends.
Yeah they are easily identifyable as genuine items but don't come up for sale often at all and when they do go very fast. Horseshoe is on backorder currently.

 

[Paulstewart20]

Yeah it looks like the right tools. The large plate should have a load of cogs with it. The horseshoe is the one that bends.
Yeah they are easily identifyable as genuine items but don't come up for sale often at all and when they do go very fast. Horseshoe is on backorder currently.

Are they essential as there is no slots for them

 

[bloke]

the pulley locking tool you've shown doesn't work the same way as the reno one, it locks the pulleys with the pegs. not sure how well they would hold though?

 

[Paulstewart20]

Ok thankyou bloke might tip ex everything too then have a crack using the guide

 

[bloke]

make sure you only use renault tippex

 

[Paulstewart20]

Lol

 

[Paulstewart20]

I have just fitted the fly wheel locking bolt but my camshaft slots are not horizontal but fractionally out does this mean my timing was out! So if the slots are supposed to be 3 and 9 o'clock (horizontal) mine is more like 2 and 8 o'clock does that make sense

 

[bloke]

make sure you're in the right hole with the crank pin!! check the timing mark on the flywheel first.

 

[Paulstewart20]

My pin is in the hole next to the dip stick but not sure about the flywheel timing mark it does not mention that on the guide it just says turn over engine till pin fits in crank and cam shafts are somewhere near horizontal so that the cam tool will slot in but mine won't obviously as not lined up

 

[bloke]

just above and to the left of the clutch arm, make sure the mark is lined up.

 

[Paulstewart20]

I see the hole and the marks on the housing but span the whole thing I could not see what was supposed to be lining up on the fly wheel it was early this morning when I looked maybe I was tired and it was obvious

 

[Mr R.]

Whip the plugs out and put a screwdriver down number one.

Turn the engine over until it gets to tdc, the crank locking pin should then fit in the correct slot.

 

[Paulstewart20]

Is this it I took the picturevoff the Internet

 

[bloke]

yup, that's it.

 

[Paulstewart20]

Ok where should the line be either linked email in view and camshaft lock in place the fly wheel bolt next to the dip stick won't go in fully will try the spare plug way as soon as I find the right socket

 

[Paulstewart20]

Spark not spare

 

[Paulstewart20]

This one shows cam shaft tool in and line on flywheel in view but flywheel bolt won't it needs to spin a bit more but then the other two are way off

 

[bloke]

wrong crank pin, the screw in one is for the k4m engine, the f4r slides in.

ignore the cams for now, crank needs to be locked first regardless of where the cams are. also your cam horseshoe should bolt to the cam cover but it's way to short to bolt up, you can see in the pic where it should bolt to the cam cover.

flywheel mark should line up with the line with 0 on the gearbox/bellhousing. not got pic sorry.