ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Nicole the 432 Valver :) (Otherwise known as The YOJ)
- Thread starter Craigie-B
- Start date
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Okay so got a text from my dad last night, he's finished the exhaust for me:
As you can see we've used the standard 172 cat and shortened the center section instead - this means the car will still pass MOT's
As mine is the twin lambda type cat as well I thought it would be important to keep both of those despite one nly being for diagnostics
As you can see we've used the standard 172 cat and shortened the center section instead - this means the car will still pass MOT's
As mine is the twin lambda type cat as well I thought it would be important to keep both of those despite one nly being for diagnostics
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Okay so todays task was to get the pas pump on the car, 172 altenator fitted and aux belt tensioned.
I knew it would take a while to sirt because it required a bit of figuring out, mattehs thread shows him using the original black mount on the altenator f**k knows how he managed that no way was it fitting on mine.
Basically I used the valver pas bracket with the pump swapped for the 172 pump. I used the 172 pas pulley its larger but it weighs 123g as opposed to the valver one weighing 320g also using a 6pk1100 belt from a clio rsi. I had to make my own top mount as I have f**k all room compared to matteh
Heres the pics:
172 pump in mk1 bracket
172 pulley
Set about making the top mount thought I would slot the holes so I can use it for adjustment aswell if needs be, drilled a hole then started filing the slot out and thought id employ the wife:
Bracket in place:
This pas pipe is whats causig problems woth tensioning, I have to fully remove the altenator to tighten this fucker up but cant tension the altenator with it in place so need to slacken the pulley to get it all in place lol
Final piece, simple but it works
So finally got it all together after cutting down one of my dads 7mm allen keys - shhh dont tell him, spent about an hour getting it all setup properly then I relised I never paintedthe bracket fuckkk so its otta come off again tomorrow - nevermind
Hopefully the rest of this will be straight forward now as it should just be a case of re-connecting everything
I knew it would take a while to sirt because it required a bit of figuring out, mattehs thread shows him using the original black mount on the altenator f**k knows how he managed that no way was it fitting on mine.
Basically I used the valver pas bracket with the pump swapped for the 172 pump. I used the 172 pas pulley its larger but it weighs 123g as opposed to the valver one weighing 320g also using a 6pk1100 belt from a clio rsi. I had to make my own top mount as I have f**k all room compared to matteh
Heres the pics:
172 pump in mk1 bracket
172 pulley
Set about making the top mount thought I would slot the holes so I can use it for adjustment aswell if needs be, drilled a hole then started filing the slot out and thought id employ the wife:
Bracket in place:
This pas pipe is whats causig problems woth tensioning, I have to fully remove the altenator to tighten this fucker up but cant tension the altenator with it in place so need to slacken the pulley to get it all in place lol
Final piece, simple but it works
So finally got it all together after cutting down one of my dads 7mm allen keys - shhh dont tell him, spent about an hour getting it all setup properly then I relised I never paintedthe bracket fuckkk so its otta come off again tomorrow - nevermind
Hopefully the rest of this will be straight forward now as it should just be a case of re-connecting everything
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Okay today I had my dads help so we cracked on,
first thing was to get the heatshield onto the 172 rack and then mount the full zorst system, remember this bracket?
Well we chopped that little b*****d up and used it as a mount for the shield:
In place:
Got the manifold on:
Got the banana pipe on:
172 Cat on:
Made a center hanger due to the weight of the 172 cat:
Magnex sticks out a bit more but its all good:
Needed more space for the altenator as it wasnt really tensioned up enough so a bit of chopping, bashing, primer and painting later we had another inch clearance:
Got the bracket painted, the whole lot installed and tensioned properly and altenator all plugged in now aswell:
Got my new T-Piece fitted and new oil pressure sender for the gauge fitted:
Fitted the new R19 flexi-hoses as the valver ones were stretching badly on full lock:
Not a huge amount done but the harder stuff is there. I think another days work and its done ready to fire up, updated list of to-do:
first thing was to get the heatshield onto the 172 rack and then mount the full zorst system, remember this bracket?
Well we chopped that little b*****d up and used it as a mount for the shield:
In place:
Got the manifold on:
Got the banana pipe on:
172 Cat on:
Made a center hanger due to the weight of the 172 cat:
Magnex sticks out a bit more but its all good:
Needed more space for the altenator as it wasnt really tensioned up enough so a bit of chopping, bashing, primer and painting later we had another inch clearance:
Got the bracket painted, the whole lot installed and tensioned properly and altenator all plugged in now aswell:
Got my new T-Piece fitted and new oil pressure sender for the gauge fitted:
Fitted the new R19 flexi-hoses as the valver ones were stretching badly on full lock:
Not a huge amount done but the harder stuff is there. I think another days work and its done ready to fire up, updated list of to-do:
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Crazy day today Knackered, piccies can show:
Got post this morning courtesy of chip (Thanks mate )
I started by getting the running gear on, I wanted to get it running and then tomorrow spend getting it roadworthy so I can get tracking done and new tyres on ready for track day on Sat, found this in my willy shafts:
So glad Im using the ph1 172 box as the old valver jb3 obv isnt long for this world
After an hour or so this was how she was looking:
Still running valver hubs with willy widetrack on a 172 rack, ill be swapping over to the 172 widetrack and brake setup soon
Had to remove the gb tray as forgot to bolt on the pas pipe, it goes over this part of the gb:
Got the pass pipe attached all sorted:
Okay so matteh's project thread says you need an adaptor for the bottom heater matrix, I noticed the thermostat end of that pipe is 15mm like the mk1 heater matrix outlet, I also happened to have a length of 15mm Heater rated piping spare from the mini project and so:
Much neater !
I found that the heater matrix pipes were like an inch to short and so I had to modify the current pipework, my uncle turned up and made me a copper extension and with a pipe of flared Ford pipe I found in my dad garage:
Sorted!
Got the petrol pipes attached to the new fuel rail clips onto the rubber hose and attached to the fuel rail:
Fuel Return:
Fuel Feed:
Needed to mount the pas bottle so lobbed a chunk out of the 172 where it fitted and it had a hole I could just bolt it to (jsut went out and got a pic because I forgot earlier lol:
Also mounted the coolant bottle using the strap on the standard setup:
Filled with some of this:
Glug Glug Glug:
Trial fitted the 172 rad and it DOES NOT fit straight in like in every other F4R mk1, It'll need some modding - this stopped me getting it running today I, but its starting to look like an engine bay again
To-Do list before Sat:
Almost there!!!!!
Knackered, piccies can show:Got post this morning courtesy of chip (Thanks mate
)I started by getting the running gear on, I wanted to get it running and then tomorrow spend getting it roadworthy so I can get tracking done and new tyres on ready for track day on Sat, found this in my willy shafts:
So glad Im using the ph1 172 box as the old valver jb3 obv isnt long for this world
After an hour or so this was how she was looking:
Still running valver hubs with willy widetrack on a 172 rack, ill be swapping over to the 172 widetrack and brake setup soon
Had to remove the gb tray as forgot to bolt on the pas pipe, it goes over this part of the gb:
Got the pass pipe attached all sorted:
Okay so matteh's project thread says you need an adaptor for the bottom heater matrix, I noticed the thermostat end of that pipe is 15mm like the mk1 heater matrix outlet, I also happened to have a length of 15mm Heater rated piping spare from the mini project and so:
Much neater !
I found that the heater matrix pipes were like an inch to short and so I had to modify the current pipework, my uncle turned up and made me a copper extension and with a pipe of flared Ford pipe I found in my dad garage:
Sorted!
Got the petrol pipes attached to the new fuel rail clips onto the rubber hose and attached to the fuel rail:
Fuel Return:
Fuel Feed:
Needed to mount the pas bottle so lobbed a chunk out of the 172 where it fitted and it had a hole I could just bolt it to (jsut went out and got a pic because I forgot earlier lol:
Also mounted the coolant bottle using the strap on the standard setup:
Filled with some of this:
Glug Glug Glug:
Trial fitted the 172 rad and it DOES NOT fit straight in like in every other F4R mk1, It'll need some modding - this stopped me getting it running today I, but its starting to look like an engine bay again
To-Do list before Sat:
Almost there!!!!!
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Okay so today the main issue was fitting the 172 rad, easily the biggest PITA of the whole conversion, as you can see from this pic its alot wider than the valver unit and so wont fit into the recess in the subframe directly:
So my dad cut a chunk out of my willy subframe:
We planned to weld it back in here:
Whilst he did that I painted the pas bottle bracket as it still had bare metal showing:
Primer:
Rattle can 432:
Went to bash in the pass side corner to move the rad over because it was too close to the altenator for my liking, and found it had rotten through and so cut out that corner and built up a new one:
Drilled a hole for the rad to mount in on that side and then welded up the other:
Routed pipework and cables like so to avoid the 172 fan:
Chopped some material off the cable carrier:
Modified the valver top brackets as so to fit onto the car and hammerited them:
Painted up the bare metal areas then got a bit carried away:
Connected the clutch cable (I had connected the throttle cable, I used the 172 one, and brake servo pipe earlier)
Put all the wiring and relays into the original valver box, unscrewed all the relays and stuff from the f7p and cut a little hole to put the positive wires out of:
Final fit of the rad and got the car ready for coolant:
More glug glug glug!
Went to turn the car over and wouldn't start, Sprayed some easy start into the tb and it coughed a bit - I thought this meant it was getting a spark, I noticed there wasn't the sound of the fuel pump priming and so obv it wasn't getting fuel a quick look in the fuel rail confirmed this.
Went back through the wiring and noticed the big yellow wire on the valver loom (Brown plug: A1) wasn't connected to anything now everyone has told me yellow wires were ign lives, hmm maybe there isn't an ign live getting to the ecu/engine and that's why fuel pump isn't firing!? Put the car into reverse and put the ign on and they didnt work either which also suggested no ign live was reaching the car (reverse lights are wired in on the 172 multi-plug) Did a quick look on the 172 diagram and White plug pin 2/3 is a big yellow cable which goes to ecu pin 29 - and pin 29 is where I took an ign live for the emulator! Bingo!
Soldered those together, plugged the connectors back together, fuel pump primed and the car fired up first time! No messing around - other than the fact injector number 4 was pissing fuel everywhere.
Took the fuel rail off and re-seated them all - turned it back on no leaking! Great only I could smell burning rubber turned it off and found the aux bracket has jumped a tooth, loosened it all off re-fitted it, started back up jumped a tooth again. Closer inspection shows the alternator may not be inline with the other pulleys as I've made my own top bracket and used my own spacer I think I may have spaced it out too much and its pulling the belt towards the engine which is where its jumping a tooth from will have a play with it tomorrow and get it going.
Tomorrows main job is getting it back on the ground 4x new tyres, tracking done and teething issues sorted.
Its been a very long day and I'm going to sleep now - another early start tomorrow but I cant wait to get in it and drive it again
So my dad cut a chunk out of my willy subframe:
We planned to weld it back in here:
Whilst he did that I painted the pas bottle bracket as it still had bare metal showing:
Primer:
Rattle can 432:
Went to bash in the pass side corner to move the rad over because it was too close to the altenator for my liking, and found it had rotten through and so cut out that corner and built up a new one:
Drilled a hole for the rad to mount in on that side and then welded up the other:
Routed pipework and cables like so to avoid the 172 fan:
Chopped some material off the cable carrier:
Modified the valver top brackets as so to fit onto the car and hammerited them:
Painted up the bare metal areas then got a bit carried away:
Connected the clutch cable (I had connected the throttle cable, I used the 172 one, and brake servo pipe earlier)
Put all the wiring and relays into the original valver box, unscrewed all the relays and stuff from the f7p and cut a little hole to put the positive wires out of:
Final fit of the rad and got the car ready for coolant:
More glug glug glug!
Went to turn the car over and wouldn't start, Sprayed some easy start into the tb and it coughed a bit - I thought this meant it was getting a spark, I noticed there wasn't the sound of the fuel pump priming and so obv it wasn't getting fuel a quick look in the fuel rail confirmed this.
Went back through the wiring and noticed the big yellow wire on the valver loom (Brown plug: A1) wasn't connected to anything now everyone has told me yellow wires were ign lives, hmm maybe there isn't an ign live getting to the ecu/engine and that's why fuel pump isn't firing!? Put the car into reverse and put the ign on and they didnt work either which also suggested no ign live was reaching the car (reverse lights are wired in on the 172 multi-plug) Did a quick look on the 172 diagram and White plug pin 2/3 is a big yellow cable which goes to ecu pin 29 - and pin 29 is where I took an ign live for the emulator! Bingo!
Soldered those together, plugged the connectors back together, fuel pump primed and the car fired up first time! No messing around - other than the fact injector number 4 was pissing fuel everywhere.
Took the fuel rail off and re-seated them all - turned it back on no leaking! Great only I could smell burning rubber turned it off and found the aux bracket has jumped a tooth, loosened it all off re-fitted it, started back up jumped a tooth again. Closer inspection shows the alternator may not be inline with the other pulleys as I've made my own top bracket and used my own spacer I think I may have spaced it out too much and its pulling the belt towards the engine which is where its jumping a tooth from will have a play with it tomorrow and get it going.
Tomorrows main job is getting it back on the ground 4x new tyres, tracking done and teething issues sorted.
Its been a very long day and I'm going to sleep now - another early start tomorrow but I cant wait to get in it and drive it again
Rob
ClioSport Moderator
Great work. I can't help but think by not following the guides so accurately you've made a bit more work for yourself than necessary, but you've done a great job so far.
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
After spending all day trying to get the belt to stop jumping a tooth I have to accept its not going to coombe tomorrow I'm going to treat myself to an open pit lane track day when its finished as a treat instead
I did also manage to wire in the rev counter and found a load of wire thats been bodged previously as well, a perm live an ign live and also this big white wire?
How she looks right now:
What a crazy day.
I'm going to treat myself to an open pit lane track day when its finished as a treat instead I did also manage to wire in the rev counter and found a load of wire thats been bodged previously as well, a perm live an ign live and also this big white wire?
How she looks right now:
What a crazy day.
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Sooo after spending Sat at Coombe with the OPD guys I was pretty pissed off my car wasn't ready, after Chip taking me round track in Lesleys car several times I was properly eager to get mine finished off!
So was very hungover this morning but my dad was eager to work on the car so I got into my crap clothes and we made a start.
First thing was to stop the belt jumping a tooth, ripped the rad out, the alternator out power steering pump and finally the brackets.
Now in Matteh's project thread it says the valver PAS bracket bolts straight onto the block - in my case it didn't I could only get 5/7 bolts to line it up which made the pas pump and idler pulley sit on the piss and therefore the belt would move. After a bit of examination we could see the f4r block has a bolt or two and also the cambelt cover gets in the way also, so we ground the bracket on the end of the tensioner pully like so:
Low and behold the fucker went on and all 7 lined up perfect. Re-built the car and started it up and it was perfect no teeth jumping at all!!
Great! 1 hours work and it was fixed, wish Id noticed it on Friday but nevermind, s**t happens right?
So after reading about the ECU needing a reading of the vehicles speed to adjust stuff for when its stood still as opposed to driving we wired in the cable from behind the clocks, you can also see where I put the emulator in this pic as well, this makes the emulator part of the loom so if the ECU packs up I just need a new one thats virgin and its plug and play :
Hour later she was looking like this:
Excuse the air filter haha I was still deciding whether or not to take her back to cov at this point:
Finally got the bonnet to fit:
Took her for a quick drive around the block didn't go very fast as the tracking needs sorting and I want to be sure of everything before I make any long journeys or hard driving in it, but here she is all back together:
And I bought her a new wing as well
Finally a vid of her running:
F4R conversion finished! Now to get through any teething issues and have some fun!
So was very hungover this morning but my dad was eager to work on the car so I got into my crap clothes and we made a start.
First thing was to stop the belt jumping a tooth, ripped the rad out, the alternator out power steering pump and finally the brackets.
Now in Matteh's project thread it says the valver PAS bracket bolts straight onto the block - in my case it didn't I could only get 5/7 bolts to line it up which made the pas pump and idler pulley sit on the piss and therefore the belt would move. After a bit of examination we could see the f4r block has a bolt or two and also the cambelt cover gets in the way also, so we ground the bracket on the end of the tensioner pully like so:
Low and behold the fucker went on and all 7 lined up perfect. Re-built the car and started it up and it was perfect no teeth jumping at all!!
Great! 1 hours work and it was fixed, wish Id noticed it on Friday but nevermind, s**t happens right?
So after reading about the ECU needing a reading of the vehicles speed to adjust stuff for when its stood still as opposed to driving we wired in the cable from behind the clocks, you can also see where I put the emulator in this pic as well, this makes the emulator part of the loom so if the ECU packs up I just need a new one thats virgin and its plug and play
:Hour later she was looking like this:
Excuse the air filter haha I was still deciding whether or not to take her back to cov at this point:
Finally got the bonnet to fit:
Took her for a quick drive around the block didn't go very fast as the tracking needs sorting and I want to be sure of everything before I make any long journeys or hard driving in it, but here she is all back together:
And I bought her a new wing as well
Finally a vid of her running:
F4R conversion finished! Now to get through any teething issues and have some fun!
Looks like it just needs to have the mounting nuts at the front of the bonnet loosened slightly then tip the bonnet a small amount and tighten them back up tbh.
There is more gap at the front on that side too compared to the other when looking at the grill relative to the bonnet as well so I don't think its an issue with the wing.
There is more gap at the front on that side too compared to the other when looking at the grill relative to the bonnet as well so I don't think its an issue with the wing.
Epic work mate. Was good to meet you on Saturday.
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Great stuff
book Llandow in August.
Thats a great idea, I can get hte guys at burpspeed to sit in with me then as well should give me a bit more confidence!! However the cars MOT is due in August and I know its going to want some welding doing! Rear arches and the front sills are all fooked
Yeah It's been like this since we re-built it from the crash, dads had a few ideas on how to put it right but tbh were convinced its because that corner now sits a little bit lower than it should do - nothing a bit of hammering wont sort when I come to sort the rear wings and front sills for MOT.
Likewise, I hope you got home okay - real shame about the cup
Yeh I got a lift with chip and vik got a lift with Lesley. Aye real shame, I a tad more emotional about it yesterday and today lol
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Williams ARB mate iirc the 172 unit doesnt fit the mk1 shell or Id of used that as well haha,
Ill be chucking a guide up of the 172 Steering rack fitting as you need to make some spacer pieces up to allow for the difference in the subframe.
Make sure you get yourself a set of brand new mounts for the rack bud, its a common problem that they wear and steering feels vague, make your life easier whilst its out.
Ill be chucking a guide up of the 172 Steering rack fitting as you need to make some spacer pieces up to allow for the difference in the subframe.
Make sure you get yourself a set of brand new mounts for the rack bud, its a common problem that they wear and steering feels vague, make your life easier whilst its out.
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Soo bit of an update.
Got back from uni early friday and cleared the tools and stuff out the clio to take it for tracking and fit my new Toyo T1R's, went down to ABC Tyres about 3 and got a phone call about 5:45 saying it was ready - went in and the guy said that the tyres were fitted but they couldn't do the tracking because there was too much play in the steering rack. I said to him "okay well I'll get the rack changed this week and will bring it back - bit of a pita because I had the engine out last week would of been ideal to change it then" his face looked sheepish and a bit stunned - I later found out why...
Went to work and one of the girls I work with (Lydia) her bf is an aa mechanic around here - apparently ABC has gotten a s**te reputation for not having a clue with what they are doing - really surprised me because they used to be THE place to take your car too, anyway this made me want to get a second opinion. We know one of the owners to another local garage (Cridges, they don't do tracking or I would of gone there to start with) I finished work at 4 am went to bed and woke up at 10 - my dad and gdad also were talking while i was at work and thought there was nothing wrong with my rack, they did some testing on it and took it to Cridges for a second opinion - he also told us it was fine and ABC were talking s**t.
Anyway I was rushed out of bed because my dad took the car down to Bassett tyres to get the tracking done (under Cridges recommendation) only the car was too low to get the laser thing on, so dad brought hte car home and woke me up to raise the front end. Did that and took it down there - they did the tracking and its AMAZING to drive.
REALLY REALLY REALLY can tell the diff between a valver rack and a 172 rack - its so much tighter and being quicker rack by 1/2 turn is very noticeable.
So got home, and was about to chill for an hour when my mum and gf decided they wanted to go to cabot circus in Bristol - I naturally thought it was an appropriate run out for Nicole and so went to wire the speed sensor in and re-build the interior of the car and take out all my remaining stuff like wires and brackets etc out of it - re-fitted the top dash and steering cowling and realised my speedo didn't work because the cable wasn't pushed in properly gave it a bit of a push and it went straight in - then the speedo worked yay
Really happy with the 172 box - sits at 3k rpm at 70 on the motorway, it really is going to be a good box for economy - although the soft pedal clutch is taking some getting used to!
Got to the car park and was really happy with how she was driving:
Filled her up with Shells new V Power 99 RON as I know the F4R's like 98 RON - got home and went to work last night and it was running like s**t, got a proper mis fire going on :/
Started the car up today pressed down on each o the leads on the coilpack and got an almighty electric shock from number 3 - has a slight split in the top - new plugs and leads on teh cards then me thinks. Put some leccy take round it and it was better but not cured.
As some of you will have noticed in previous pics, we bodged an air filter on just so it was driveable I thought today I would fit the standard airbox and filter on - however this meant putting the battery back in the boot. Last time I tried this it didn't really work and the battery wasnt being charged - I bought some proper 25mm2 wire instead of the 13mm2 s**t I had originally.
Tried showing the diff in this pic but you cant really see it - it really is a noticeable increase:
Got it all wired up:
Started first time - spot on. It kept cutting out straight away and eventually figured out I had tripped the inertia switch and hadnt relised - pressed the red button it was running again.
Got the airbox fitted after turning the pip round 90 degrees and took the plastic engine cover off as the bonnet is damaging it - will have to modify bonnet some more so It clears as I really like the way it looks with the plastic. Here 3 pics of the bay:
Took her out for a drive, doesnt look too fast in the vid but it was - used iPhone on a mount that suckers to the windshield so its a bit crappy because of that:
I've noticed the zorst is hitting the arb after I let off from accelerating, JayKay in the post above tells me the 172 ARB should fit my car - in which case might actually give me all the clearance I need! More investigating needed
And thats all for now folks! More updates over the next week or so after I finish dissertation - I'll also be doing guides on F4R conversion and keeping PAS with F4R also 172 steering rack in a mk1 after I move back home (18th May)
Got back from uni early friday and cleared the tools and stuff out the clio to take it for tracking and fit my new Toyo T1R's, went down to ABC Tyres about 3 and got a phone call about 5:45 saying it was ready - went in and the guy said that the tyres were fitted but they couldn't do the tracking because there was too much play in the steering rack. I said to him "okay well I'll get the rack changed this week and will bring it back - bit of a pita because I had the engine out last week would of been ideal to change it then" his face looked sheepish and a bit stunned - I later found out why...
Went to work and one of the girls I work with (Lydia) her bf is an aa mechanic around here - apparently ABC has gotten a s**te reputation for not having a clue with what they are doing - really surprised me because they used to be THE place to take your car too, anyway this made me want to get a second opinion. We know one of the owners to another local garage (Cridges, they don't do tracking or I would of gone there to start with) I finished work at 4 am went to bed and woke up at 10 - my dad and gdad also were talking while i was at work and thought there was nothing wrong with my rack, they did some testing on it and took it to Cridges for a second opinion - he also told us it was fine and ABC were talking s**t.
Anyway I was rushed out of bed because my dad took the car down to Bassett tyres to get the tracking done (under Cridges recommendation) only the car was too low to get the laser thing on, so dad brought hte car home and woke me up to raise the front end. Did that and took it down there - they did the tracking and its AMAZING to drive.
REALLY REALLY REALLY can tell the diff between a valver rack and a 172 rack - its so much tighter and being quicker rack by 1/2 turn is very noticeable.
So got home, and was about to chill for an hour when my mum and gf decided they wanted to go to cabot circus in Bristol - I naturally thought it was an appropriate run out for Nicole and so went to wire the speed sensor in and re-build the interior of the car and take out all my remaining stuff like wires and brackets etc out of it - re-fitted the top dash and steering cowling and realised my speedo didn't work because the cable wasn't pushed in properly gave it a bit of a push and it went straight in - then the speedo worked yay
Really happy with the 172 box - sits at 3k rpm at 70 on the motorway, it really is going to be a good box for economy - although the soft pedal clutch is taking some getting used to!
Got to the car park and was really happy with how she was driving:
Filled her up with Shells new V Power 99 RON as I know the F4R's like 98 RON - got home and went to work last night and it was running like s**t, got a proper mis fire going on :/
Started the car up today pressed down on each o the leads on the coilpack and got an almighty electric shock from number 3 - has a slight split in the top - new plugs and leads on teh cards then me thinks. Put some leccy take round it and it was better but not cured.
As some of you will have noticed in previous pics, we bodged an air filter on just so it was driveable I thought today I would fit the standard airbox and filter on - however this meant putting the battery back in the boot. Last time I tried this it didn't really work and the battery wasnt being charged - I bought some proper 25mm2 wire instead of the 13mm2 s**t I had originally.
Tried showing the diff in this pic but you cant really see it - it really is a noticeable increase:
Got it all wired up:
Started first time - spot on. It kept cutting out straight away and eventually figured out I had tripped the inertia switch and hadnt relised - pressed the red button it was running again.
Got the airbox fitted after turning the pip round 90 degrees and took the plastic engine cover off as the bonnet is damaging it - will have to modify bonnet some more so It clears as I really like the way it looks with the plastic. Here 3 pics of the bay:
Took her out for a drive, doesnt look too fast in the vid but it was
- used iPhone on a mount that suckers to the windshield so its a bit crappy because of that:I've noticed the zorst is hitting the arb after I let off from accelerating, JayKay in the post above tells me the 172 ARB should fit my car - in which case might actually give me all the clearance I need! More investigating needed
And thats all for now folks! More updates over the next week or so after I finish dissertation - I'll also be doing guides on F4R conversion and keeping PAS with F4R also 172 steering rack in a mk1 after I move back home (18th May)
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
So I was heading back to uni today and got caught in about an hours worth of traffic - was properly melting in the car so I realised I had my tool kit in the boot and my new sunroof motor in the glove box. Sooo whilst I was waiting I set about swapping the sun roof motor
Pretty sure I have fixed every electrical fault on this car now, cant think of anything (other than the clock) that doesn't work
1 reason why I love F4R so much - compare the mileage to the fuel consumption (from full tank of v power), this was during mixed (fast and normal) driving as well.
Really in love with this car
Pretty sure I have fixed every electrical fault on this car now, cant think of anything (other than the clock) that doesn't work
1 reason why I love F4R so much - compare the mileage to the fuel consumption (from full tank of v power), this was during mixed (fast and normal) driving as well.
Really in love with this car
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
So I got to uni on monday, went to take gf to work on the tuesday morning - battery light was on, thought ah ffs more problems with battery in the boot as before with the f7p I had problems charging the battery and starting the car from it.
I got stuck in traffic and noticed the steering was heavy as f**k, and my temp gauge was rising quickly - You guessed it!
Popped the bonnet to find:
A closer look:
Hmm, had the tools in my car - thought I would loosen the altenator off put the belt on just to limp home and discover the problemt more thoroughly, hang on the altenator is moving. Somehow managed to shear the pas bracket on the part that holds the altenator, had to leave the car for a bit due to uni work, but finished all that weds so spent the day on it yesturday:
It was raining and cold so we made a fire to keep warm:
Then cracked on:
Got alty off:
Bust bracket:
Eventually got it fitted but the 6 rib belt is shagged, luckily I had a 5 rib in the boot - put that on and it jumps a tooth as before - hmmm I've got it so its not rubbing anywhere and should get me home for the weekend where I can take it off and grind a bit more - I think I missed a bit is all.
Set about changing the plugs and leads as I had brand new items from renault. Old plugs look a bit shitty:
And all back together and running perfectly this morning:
No more misfire and shes a different car to drive. Love F4R so much its so good to drive!
I got stuck in traffic and noticed the steering was heavy as f**k, and my temp gauge was rising quickly - You guessed it!
Popped the bonnet to find:
A closer look:
Hmm, had the tools in my car - thought I would loosen the altenator off put the belt on just to limp home and discover the problemt more thoroughly, hang on the altenator is moving. Somehow managed to shear the pas bracket on the part that holds the altenator, had to leave the car for a bit due to uni work, but finished all that weds so spent the day on it yesturday:
It was raining and cold so we made a fire to keep warm:
Then cracked on:
Got alty off:
Bust bracket:
Eventually got it fitted but the 6 rib belt is shagged, luckily I had a 5 rib in the boot - put that on and it jumps a tooth as before - hmmm I've got it so its not rubbing anywhere and should get me home for the weekend where I can take it off and grind a bit more - I think I missed a bit is all.
Set about changing the plugs and leads as I had brand new items from renault. Old plugs look a bit shitty:
And all back together and running perfectly this morning:
No more misfire and shes a different car to drive. Love F4R so much its so good to drive!
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Finally weighed in the donor 172 today, here are pictures of its final moments:
And at the weigh in bridge:
Bye Bye X116 GDG thanks for the parts to keep Nicole (The YOJ) on the road.
So I was driving her recently and everytime I braked it pulled sharply to the right and when I accelerated It pulled sharpley to the left. It genuinely felt strange to drive, parked it up for the past 2 weeks as I've been super busy and finally had a chance to look at it today.
Turns out the new ball joint bolts I put in wern't up to the job. Notice the missing 2 washers and other Nylock nut:
Seems like I'm forever having Ball joint issues. I have stripped the shocks off the hubs and am going to get the 172 widetrack installed this week before going to POD with Chip and the OPD crew - purely because I have the original 172 ball joint bolts and Itll be a damned site more reliable.
Anyhow F4R is good and I haven't had any new hiccups with the engine since replacing the alternator bracket *goes to touch wood* there will be incoming updates this week.
Edit:
I forgot to add took my coilovers off to get the hubs machined to the same size and noticed one is much larger than the other!?
Tha f**k is going on there??? Think they need a re-furb before the llandow track day FOR SURE!!!
And at the weigh in bridge:
Bye Bye X116 GDG thanks for the parts to keep Nicole (The YOJ) on the road.
So I was driving her recently and everytime I braked it pulled sharply to the right and when I accelerated It pulled sharpley to the left. It genuinely felt strange to drive, parked it up for the past 2 weeks as I've been super busy and finally had a chance to look at it today.
Turns out the new ball joint bolts I put in wern't up to the job. Notice the missing 2 washers and other Nylock nut:
Seems like I'm forever having Ball joint issues. I have stripped the shocks off the hubs and am going to get the 172 widetrack installed this week before going to POD with Chip and the OPD crew - purely because I have the original 172 ball joint bolts and Itll be a damned site more reliable.
Anyhow F4R is good and I haven't had any new hiccups with the engine since replacing the alternator bracket *goes to touch wood* there will be incoming updates this week.
Edit:
I forgot to add took my coilovers off to get the hubs machined to the same size and noticed one is much larger than the other!?
Tha f**k is going on there??? Think they need a re-furb before the llandow track day FOR SURE!!!
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
So today I started the strip down process to get the 172 track on:
Pass side Hub and wishbone out:
Hour later this was the driver side:
All the stuff on the floor:
By 3:45 I had to pick wife up and had work at 5 so left the car with the 172 wishbones attached and the 172 arb attached to the wishbones it now clears the exhaust so shouldnt get te same knocking sound I used to have woohoo!
Tried to show the 2" clearence here:
Well happy with that level of gap. Hopefully get the car ready to accept the hubs tomorrow then while im waiting for machine shop ill make some rear stub axel spacers so the back has the same track difference as the willy widetrack and itll drive really nicely
More pics tomorrow!!
Pass side Hub and wishbone out:
Hour later this was the driver side:
All the stuff on the floor:
By 3:45 I had to pick wife up and had work at 5 so left the car with the 172 wishbones attached and the 172 arb attached to the wishbones
it now clears the exhaust so shouldnt get te same knocking sound I used to have woohoo!Tried to show the 2" clearence here:
Well happy with that level of gap. Hopefully get the car ready to accept the hubs tomorrow then while im waiting for machine shop ill make some rear stub axel spacers so the back has the same track difference as the willy widetrack and itll drive really nicely
More pics tomorrow!!
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Thanks Guys
Finally got around to posting up some piccies of the 172 track!
It feels SO MUCH more planted in the corners than with the willy widetrack! I haven't pushed it a great amount as im still waiting on 15mm rear spacers to even the width out but so far it feels much better!!!
Chunky!!!
Finally got around to posting up some piccies of the 172 track!
It feels SO MUCH more planted in the corners than with the willy widetrack! I haven't pushed it a great amount as im still waiting on 15mm rear spacers to even the width out but so far it feels much better!!!
Chunky!!!
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Well I just looked through my pictures and I have realised I forgot to update previously:
My photobucket ran out so just bought pro membership =]
Anyway finally got the 172 arb on - Put it on the subframe first and use a set of mole grips and a hammer to tap the bolt through as in my case it went through wonky and straightened after I tightened it up. I used a jack to align the arb with the wishbones.
Comparison between the 172 brakes and valver brakes:
Got the flexi hoses attached to the brakes as I was still waiting for my hubs at this point:
172 shafts in:
172 rear calipers because they actually have a working handbrake on them:
Car was left like this:
Next day I was sat waiting for the hubs and so went shopping:
Hubs finally turned up and I got the brakes on:
Big brakes ftw
Finished piccies from the post above just so this doesnt seem like a strange update:
I'm actually really bored now as I have nothing to do - Im sat playing zombies on psn all day. Finishing a car sucks!!!
My photobucket ran out so just bought pro membership =]
Anyway finally got the 172 arb on - Put it on the subframe first and use a set of mole grips and a hammer to tap the bolt through as in my case it went through wonky and straightened after I tightened it up. I used a jack to align the arb with the wishbones.
Comparison between the 172 brakes and valver brakes:
Got the flexi hoses attached to the brakes as I was still waiting for my hubs at this point:
172 shafts in:
172 rear calipers because they actually have a working handbrake on them:
Car was left like this:
Next day I was sat waiting for the hubs and so went shopping:
Hubs finally turned up and I got the brakes on:
Big brakes ftw
Finished piccies from the post above just so this doesnt seem like a strange update:
I'm actually really bored now as I have nothing to do - Im sat playing zombies on psn all day. Finishing a car sucks!!!
Clio 16v 'YOJ'
Sooo yesturday was my last day for prep work on the clio before fcs.
I had a 206 leather black gear stick gaiter lying around so made it fit my valver to match my black center console
better than the hideous grey thing
my girlfriend sewed up my seats as they were ripped:
Modified the vent scoop so that I can fit the plastic engine cover without it getting damaged, need to put this on as the bonnet scoop makes direct access to the coil pack so it gets soaking wet in he rain.
Still looks normal thats a bonus!
I had a grey arch so i thought I would rattle can it blue, still looks poor but better than grey:
All ready for FCS it might get a clean at some evening in the weekend - we will see!
Hopefully youll see it on the c16v stand if paddy has finished clusterfucking up the stand passes LOL
I had a 206 leather black gear stick gaiter lying around so made it fit my valver to match my black center console
better than the hideous grey thing
my girlfriend sewed up my seats as they were ripped:
Modified the vent scoop so that I can fit the plastic engine cover without it getting damaged, need to put this on as the bonnet scoop makes direct access to the coil pack so it gets soaking wet in he rain.
Still looks normal thats a bonus!
I had a grey arch so i thought I would rattle can it blue, still looks poor but better than grey:
All ready for FCS it might get a clean at some evening in the weekend - we will see!
Hopefully youll see it on the c16v stand if paddy has finished clusterfucking up the stand passes LOL
