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I'm guessing it will go through the white connecter that is underneath the engine relay box. I've read your problem already it's maybe worth checking under the scuttle panel on the passenger side as there is a connecter there that takes the wiring into the car. When I was having problems I noticed quite a bit of water sat in there.
Right ok thanks mate I will check that.
Has any one got a wiring diagram for this?
If so that would be excellent. It is a CC.0 fault by the way which means there is a short circuit to earth somewhere.
Am I right in thinking this is consistent with TidyClios hypothesis that water may be the cause of the problem?
Cheers guys
Sam
Has any one got a wiring diagram for this?
If so that would be excellent. It is a CC.0 fault by the way which means there is a short circuit to earth somewhere.
Am I right in thinking this is consistent with TidyClios hypothesis that water may be the cause of the problem?
Cheers guys
Sam
Volvo S60 T5
Check the wiring to the pedal, check the wiring to the throttle body and also the wiring in the engine fuse box.
Oh and also the wiring connector on the bukhead.
Its also well worth checking the engine wiring loom especially new the ecu and the security cover cuts into the wires and shorts them out.
Oh and also the wiring connector on the bukhead.
Its also well worth checking the engine wiring loom especially new the ecu and the security cover cuts into the wires and shorts them out.
The wiring diagram even if I were to post it woulnd't help there not that easy to use not as clear as they might hope to be.
As Jon said check that box just follow the lines from your pedal check for shorts in that fuse box under the bonnet and check the condition of all the earths you have.
As Jon said check that box just follow the lines from your pedal check for shorts in that fuse box under the bonnet and check the condition of all the earths you have.
I have spent a good few hours on it this afternoon stripping all the stuff around it away (windscreen wipers, various panels etc..)
The battery keeps going flat - I am guessing this is because there is a short somewhere? The fault came back as CC.0 which means it is earthing so could this be responsible (apologies, I am shite with electrics)?
There is no ECU box around the terminals Jon posted and the wires look fine.
There is a fair bit of oil around the fuse box area - this isn't a good enough conductor to course a short is it?
Thanks
Sam
The battery keeps going flat - I am guessing this is because there is a short somewhere? The fault came back as CC.0 which means it is earthing so could this be responsible (apologies, I am shite with electrics)?
There is no ECU box around the terminals Jon posted and the wires look fine.
There is a fair bit of oil around the fuse box area - this isn't a good enough conductor to course a short is it?
Thanks
Sam
You've got a short firstl ou need to find out where from if check the rear brake light but to me sound like somehting stronger as such draining all the power.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=251095
I really need to know where the circuits whole route.
Do you think I am right in assuming that somewhere or other along the way there is a short to earth in THAT circuit?
What would a short to earth be? Must it be a live or neutral wire touching metal on the car? Or could it just be hitting a neutral from another circuit?
Anyones help will be massively appreciated.
Cheers
Sam
I really need to know where the circuits whole route.
Do you think I am right in assuming that somewhere or other along the way there is a short to earth in THAT circuit?
What would a short to earth be? Must it be a live or neutral wire touching metal on the car? Or could it just be hitting a neutral from another circuit?
Anyones help will be massively appreciated.
Cheers
Sam
Less
There's no 'neutrals' as such in a Clio's electrics Sam, it's a negative chassis, meaning that any points that require a 'neutral' are simply bolted to the cars framework. The -ve terminal of the battery is then connected directly to the chassis.
As for the short, it's likely to be something that's showing a trickle drain...can't really think what though. If there was a dead short it would probably take out the associated fuse.
Do you have a voltage meter?
As for the short, it's likely to be something that's showing a trickle drain...can't really think what though. If there was a dead short it would probably take out the associated fuse.
Do you have a voltage meter?
Oh right ok I see now!
About 3 weeks ago I had a problem with the fuses/relays. They would click and only sometimes would the fuel pump prime etc...
I messed around with it for ages and saw one of the little fuses (little in size and it was a "10" or "15" (amp?)) smoke and get incredibly hot. It eventually melted itself and this would cause the car to not start quite often. As the problem I am having now happened straight after that they are probably linked? Only difference is the car wouldn't start back then, whereas it does now and back then the fuse got hot, whereas it doesn't now.
Thanks
Sam
About 3 weeks ago I had a problem with the fuses/relays. They would click and only sometimes would the fuel pump prime etc...
I messed around with it for ages and saw one of the little fuses (little in size and it was a "10" or "15" (amp?)) smoke and get incredibly hot. It eventually melted itself and this would cause the car to not start quite often. As the problem I am having now happened straight after that they are probably linked? Only difference is the car wouldn't start back then, whereas it does now and back then the fuse got hot, whereas it doesn't now.
Thanks
Sam
The immoboliser wouldn't disarm when the relay/fuse boards were in a certain position. The relays would click as if there was a lose connection. Later found the fuse so assumed it was that as it had melted and the metal had turned molten making contact only in certain positions.
If you click on the link I applied earlier it says which faults came up.
Sometimes I hit the accelerator and nothing happens. Not sure if that is just to do with limp mode generally though?
Anyone got a wiring diagram so I can trace the wires behind the bulkhead?
Thanks
Sam
If you click on the link I applied earlier it says which faults came up.
Sometimes I hit the accelerator and nothing happens. Not sure if that is just to do with limp mode generally though?
Anyone got a wiring diagram so I can trace the wires behind the bulkhead?
Thanks
Sam
Less
It suggests changing the pedal sensor if the fault persists Sam.
INJECTION
Fault finding -Interpretation of faults 17
DF126 PRESENT OR STORED
PEDAL POTENTIOMETER TRACK 2 CIRCUIT
CC.0 : Short circuit to earth
CC.1 : Short circuit to +12 V
NOTES
Priority in the event of a combination of faults:
–Deal first with faults DF219 Throttle potentiometer reference voltage and DF220
Pressure sensor reference voltage if they are present or stored.
Conditions for applying the fault finding strategy to the fault stored:
The fault is declared present after:
–switching on the ignition and pressing the accelerator pedal.
Special notes:
The accelerator pedal position sensor is located on the bulkhead below the brake servo.
There is no need to program no load and full load position recognition.
Check the connection and condition of the pedal potentiometer connector.
Change the connector if necessary.
Make sure that the accelerator pedal moves the potentiometer correctly (from the minimum end stop to the maximum end stop).
Connect the bornier in place of the computer and check the insulation,continuity and absence of
interference resistance of the connections:
Computer connector A track K1 Track 1 of the pedal potentiometer track 2
Computer connector A track F1 Track 3 of the pedal potentiometer track 2
Computer connector A track B4 Track 5 of the pedal potentiometer track 2
Repair if necessary.
Check for the presence of a 5 V supply on track 3 of the potentiometer.
If there is no supply,change the injection computer.
AFTER REPAIR
Clear the fault memory.
Follow the instructions to confirm repair.
Deal with any other possible faults.
Hope this is of some help mate
INJECTION
Fault finding -Interpretation of faults 17
DF126 PRESENT OR STORED
PEDAL POTENTIOMETER TRACK 2 CIRCUIT
CC.0 : Short circuit to earth
CC.1 : Short circuit to +12 V
NOTES
Priority in the event of a combination of faults:
–Deal first with faults DF219 Throttle potentiometer reference voltage and DF220
Pressure sensor reference voltage if they are present or stored.
Conditions for applying the fault finding strategy to the fault stored:
The fault is declared present after:
–switching on the ignition and pressing the accelerator pedal.
Special notes:
The accelerator pedal position sensor is located on the bulkhead below the brake servo.
There is no need to program no load and full load position recognition.
Check the connection and condition of the pedal potentiometer connector.
Change the connector if necessary.
Make sure that the accelerator pedal moves the potentiometer correctly (from the minimum end stop to the maximum end stop).
Connect the bornier in place of the computer and check the insulation,continuity and absence of
interference resistance of the connections:
Computer connector A track K1 Track 1 of the pedal potentiometer track 2
Computer connector A track F1 Track 3 of the pedal potentiometer track 2
Computer connector A track B4 Track 5 of the pedal potentiometer track 2
Repair if necessary.
Check for the presence of a 5 V supply on track 3 of the potentiometer.
If there is no supply,change the injection computer.
AFTER REPAIR
Clear the fault memory.
Follow the instructions to confirm repair.
Deal with any other possible faults.
Hope this is of some help mate
Last edited:
Where exactly is the ignition computer based?
The car has always been bad in the wet (often goes into limp mode) but this could be rectified by sticking my foot to the floor and reigniting the engine whilst in motion, but would go limp the next time I took my foot of the gas).
A few months ago a Renault Technician cleaned the terminals that Jon posted a pic of and said there was excess silicone in there. Checked that but all looks well and good.
Thanks
Sam
P.S. its weird DF126 doesn't show?
The car has always been bad in the wet (often goes into limp mode) but this could be rectified by sticking my foot to the floor and reigniting the engine whilst in motion, but would go limp the next time I took my foot of the gas).
A few months ago a Renault Technician cleaned the terminals that Jon posted a pic of and said there was excess silicone in there. Checked that but all looks well and good.
Thanks
Sam
P.S. its weird DF126 doesn't show?
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